Camaro won't start

Tiny
KSDRIVER
  • MEMBER
  • CHEVROLET CAMARO
I have a 1991 Chevy Camaro Z28: 5.0 liter, 305 engine that won't start. The problem began with the battery dieing overnight so I was told I had a parasitic drain. It also had a loud humming sound coming from under the vehicle (which i'm assuming was the fuel pump) and it wouldn't go off, so I suspected the relay stuck open. So we pulled the fuses one by one and unplugged everything under the hood we could possibly think of and found nothing. We started the vehicle up and drove it a little ways, then once I stopped at a stop sign, it died and would not start again. I looked under the hood and checked the injectors and they weren't getting any fuel. So I was told it would be the fuel pump. We dropped the tank, replaced the fuel pump and the relay hoping it would fix the problem (checked for spark, there is spark) and it still wouldn't start. It will start if we would spray starter fluid in the injectors, but would die right after. So we suspected it was still a fuel delivery problem. We re-checked everything, the fuel pump is still not coming on, we checked for power in the consistant (or any) wire going to the relay and there is no power getting to the relay at all. So at this point i'm convinced it's an electrical problem. The a/c relay is not getting any power, we bought a scanner to see if we could get some codes, and my check engine light is not coming on. But my security light has been on, and when the emergency brake is on, that light comes on. I was told it could be something with the ignition. Some kind of relay or module or could it be just the wiring? Are the relays and check engine wired close together, and where do they go? Any help at this point would be greatly appriciated
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Saturday, March 24th, 2007 AT 12:07 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
In my experiances I have seen wires chafted right through! Check the wires from the tank to the engine. On my car they cross inside from passenger to driver side. Then I found the break in the wires by the left front wheel. Had to remove the inner fender to find it! All it takes is ITT It takes time!
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Monday, March 26th, 2007 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
KSDRIVER
  • MEMBER
I fixed a loose ground and short, so here is where we are now. The A/C relay now has power and the fuel pump relay has power, The wire to the relay that is always hot (supposed to be orange, mine is red) Is now always hot, the ground is good, and the wires to injectors, good, but the wire that is suposed to prime the pump when the key is turned on, has no power. So the pump is not priming, therefore, never turning on to send fuel to start. Does this wire go to the ECM? This is where I'm stuck. I can replace parts all day long, but when it comes to computers and wiring, I'm lost. I can learn though if someone can tell me what to do. If so how do I check if the ECM is good or if it needs replaced. We still don't have a check engine light coming on, so I can't troubleshoot for codes. I'm VERY convinced that this is the problem, however, any suggestions would help. Thanks a bunch
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Tuesday, March 27th, 2007 AT 10:24 PM
Tiny
KSDRIVER
  • MEMBER
Checked more wiring today, the last time I checked for troubleshooting codes, the check engine light would not come on, decided to try again, and the first time the security light was the only one on, (Still) and the E-break was on, but the light was not, so we fiddled with the ignition switch and the check engine light and e-break came on and off. Could this be an ignition switch? Would the ignition switch cause the fuel pump relay to not have power in the priming wire? The problem is, when I bought this vehicle it came with a homemade looking key with no chip, but I have a VATS fuse, so that means I have VATS right? That would explain why the security light is coming on, but it was running for a few weeks after I bought it and then all of the sudden started having this fuel delivery system. And once died on me at a stop sign, and would not re-start. The ignition switch, where the key goes inside, looking like someone was very forceful with it, and doesn't look like it's in good shape, I just don't want to go to a dealership and get the correct keys along with a new ignition switch (very costly) if it won't fix the problem. I NEED HELP PLEASE :( We were checking the terminals in the fuse box with a test light, and half of them are very dim, some are bright, and 2 of them didn't light up at all, but they are my radio and wipers, and they both work. This has us very confused!
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Wednesday, March 28th, 2007 AT 6:51 PM
Tiny
KSDRIVER
  • MEMBER
Okay, simple thing, easy to fix, my oil pressure switch is bad, and my connector was melted. Used to jumper on the connector and the pump came on, and started right up, still at an extended crank, it is bypassing the fuel pump, next problem to fix but hey, now it will start.
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Saturday, March 31st, 2007 AT 11:53 PM
Tiny
MY_87IROC
  • MEMBER
One more thing you could check is the ecm fuse in your fuse panel, this happend on my iroc so the computer wasnt getting any power so it wasnt sending out pretty much any information.
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Thursday, April 19th, 2007 AT 8:09 PM

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