1998 Chevy Blazer Red Hot

Tiny
DIANEMDUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 127,000 MILES
I recently put on rear brakes. The driver side is not doing well. After driving for about 10 miles and stopped I smelt something hot. I looked at the tire and you could see glowing red. What could it be? Something hanging up in there with the brakes? Thank you.
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 10:06 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
MARK411_2000
  • MEMBER
I just recently replaced the pads & rotors on my rear brakes. On the passenger side I replaced a siezed caliper. I drove the car around and started to smell burning. Chalked it up to break in of the new parts. Later after driving on the interstate I had smoke coming from the wheel. I've installed 100s of brakes without an issue.
I disassembled and replaced pads again in case something was misaligned. Visually checked allignment, everything looks fine. Drove several miles then check rotor temp with infrared thermometer. Fronts are 200, passenger rear 150, drivers rear +300 degrees.
After an extensive search I have seen several persons with the same problem but none returned to the forums to inform what fixed their problem.
Most answers recomend replacing the caliper. Seems like the caliper does not like to be pushed in and fails after replacing the pads.
I would sure like to verify this before spending the $$ because that side was working fine and I only replaced them because of the seized caliper on the other side.
Thx,
Mark
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Saturday, May 17th, 2008 AT 11:35 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
Check to see that the emergency brake is not the culprit.
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Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 11:03 AM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
First off I sugguest anytime you have to replace a caliper or wheel cylinder you replace them both.

OK, did you check to see if you emergency brake is not the culprit.
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Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
MARK411_2000
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the suggestion. E-Brake is not engaged at the peddle. I will pull off rotor to check if it is grabbing in the drum/rotor.

I don't think that the E-Brake is the problem because the brand new rotor has been ground down quite a bit after only 10-20 mi worth of driving. The other side still looks new.

I'm 90% sure that the caliper is the problem. It's strange to me because back in the day calipers did not go bad by replacing the pads. If it wasn't seized or leaking, it was good to go. Of course back then they were more expensive and made of cast iron.

Since others have posted questions about the same exact problem on this vehicle, I would like to find someone that corrected the problem by replacing the caliper.
Mark
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Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 4:24 PM
Tiny
OBXAUTOMEDIC
  • EXPERT
How did you get the piston back into the housing?

Maybe it somehow got cocked. Has happened to me a time or 2.
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Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 4:45 PM
Tiny
MARK411_2000
  • MEMBER
I used a big C clamp to press it in. On these newer cars you can do it while caliper is stilll mounted in place. If can recall correctly, it did take more force than I expected to get it in the last 1/8 of an inch.

After the first assembly I rode around more so when I disesembled you could see that the inside caliper piston appeared to have a half moon burn pattern and the pad had wore out more on the outer edge of the rotor.

I would replace the caliper but I heard of one other problem that can cause the same symptom. A internally colapsed brake line. Inside the like a flap drops into the tube letting fluid ny one way but not letting fluid exit from the caliper.
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Sunday, May 18th, 2008 AT 11:40 PM
Tiny
SEABEE26
  • MEMBER
I have 98 ZR2 and had the same problem to the letter. I replaced the rear brake hoses they were cheap and new calipers and have not had the problem since. My old calipers were frozen on the pins, make sure you lube them well. I have found better luck with brake grease rather than the synthetic stuff.
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Wednesday, May 21st, 2008 AT 1:52 PM

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