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1998 Chevy Blazer No Fire At Sparkplugs

Tiny
SALTU
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 CHEVROLET BLAZER
Electrical problem
1998 Chevy Blazer 6 cyl Four Wheel Drive Automatic

I bought this thing used a couple of months ago. It is said to have 30,000 on a "new" engine. It had a bad miss to it. I found it to have a broken plug. And also replaced the Distributer( the whole thing). It ran OK but had a miss/stutter at a low idle. Then the other day it would not start.
I am getting no fire to the plugs. I have replaced the Ignition Coil, the Engine control module and even the PCM ( computer ).
I am getting power to one of the two wires that are part of the plug that goes to the coil (with the key on). And am getting power to all the IGN/ENG fuses.
I do not know what to do next.
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Sunday, March 28th, 2010 AT 11:30 AM

7 Replies

Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Hi, thanks for the donation. Was the ignition coil new? Primary circuits at the coil, pink is voltage, white/black is ground. Both wires should be hot with the key on, no ground? If not, I suspect a faulty coil, unless, that is a constant ground, if that is the case, may ruin the coil. There shouldn't be a ground, unless engine is cranking.
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Sunday, March 28th, 2010 AT 12:05 PM
Tiny
SALTU
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
The coil was brand new. Pink wire is hot with key on and white/ black wire pulses hot when the motor is cranked.

I have no way of checking actual voltage I am using a test light.

I was gonna check and make sure the distributer is turning but my kids have decided to play with my torx bit set and forgot where they put it.

I tried checking spark at several plugs( using a kid to operate the key ) with one of those testers that look like a plug but still no luck.

What do you recommend.
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Sunday, March 28th, 2010 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
Take coil wire loose from dist cap, either use spark tester or hold coil wire close to metal part of engine, see if spark will jump, engine cranking. Right now, I'm thinking, possible coil wire--dist cap or rotor issue.

Those circuits you check with the testlite, sounds good to me.
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Monday, March 29th, 2010 AT 10:41 AM
Tiny
SALTU
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Found my tools. Rotor is turning, was a bit of soot around where th coil contact gets to the rotor.

Spark jumps at the coil, it will also jump when I test the distributer end of the coil wire.

I tried again with the plug looking tester on a couple of plug wires with no spark. But it will produce a VERY SMALL spark if I use a bit of wire inserted into the end of a plug wire and jump it that way.
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Monday, March 29th, 2010 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
JDL
  • MECHANIC
  • 16,098 POSTS
I think there is a problem with either the cap or rotor. They are maintenance items.
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Monday, March 29th, 2010 AT 12:30 PM
Tiny
SALTU
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
I took a look at the original cap and the one I had on there. They both had small flat blades for the contact point of rotor to cap to plug.

I went to the parts house and found one that will work with beefy round contacts.

I put it on and she fired right up.

I think maybe the round contacts use more surface area to transfer spark. That compensates for the slop in the system, and the inability to fine tune the timing by turning the distibuter a small amount.

This ENG setup you can only manipulate the DIST one complete tooth at a time.
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Tuesday, March 30th, 2010 AT 11:44 AM
Tiny
2 LINSEY
  • MECHANIC
  • 287 POSTS
Thank you for using 2CarPros. Com. We appreciate your donation and look forward to helping you in the future.
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Tuesday, March 30th, 2010 AT 6:19 PM

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