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The car idles rough and it feels like it wants to cut off on me when idling?

Tiny
GABETOFYE222
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER 300
  • 3.5L
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 233,000 MILES
I replaced the spark plugs, the fuel pump, fuel sending unit, the water pump, the serpentine belt and serpentine tensioner. It also has a new battery in it. I also replaced the timing belt and made sure all my timing marks are lined up. I replaced the harmonic balancer and the ignition switch, but when I start my car, it idles and shakes rough, and it feels like it stumbles and wants to shut off. I can't even go a few feet when driving before it completely shuts off on me. I lifted the hood and I saw that my serpentine belt slips to the side of my serpentine tensioner, and it burns the side of the belt and the tensioner gets really hot.
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Wednesday, March 13th, 2024 AT 3:29 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,262 POSTS
Hi,

Is everything aligned properly as far as the belt is concerned? In other words, can you tell if any of the pulleys are out of alignment? The tensioner is likely getting hot from the friction produced by the belt rubbing the tensioner.

Next, have you checked to make sure there are no engine vacuum leaks? That can cause a poor idle.

Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

Also, have you checked to see if there are any diagnostic trouble codes stored? If not, that should be done as well.

Here is a link showing how to scan the entire can-bus:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/can-scan-controller-area-network-easy

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, March 13th, 2024 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
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I'm going to have to check when I get home but I also have this going on as well. I don't know if it should open fully or not.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 12:08 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
I checked the codes and I got one for p2314 but when I turn my engine on my check engine light goes off I checked the pulleys and all of them seemed to line up besides the crank a little bit I pushed it further back than I can and the belt is still slipping to the side of the tensioner and it gets really hot. I don't have any vacuum leaks as well.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 3:02 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,262 POSTS
Hi,

The code indicates an issue with the cylinder 5 ignition coil. Here is what I want you to do. Remove the ignition coil and switch it with a different one on the vehicle. If the coil itself is bad, the code will change to a different cylinder.

As far as the belt is concerned, how tight does it feel? The tensioner itself may be faulty.

Let me know.

Joe

See pic below for cylinder 5 location.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 8:04 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
I will check and I replaced the tensioner and the belt feels real tight just enough for me to turn it a little bit but my crank still seems like it's not lining up with the others it ripped my serpentine belt, so I bought a new one and it was starting to rip that one, so I got a new one and I'm not going to put it on there yet.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 8:41 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
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I change the ignitions coils 3 and 5 I checked for codes but didn't get anything.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 9:05 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
I started the engine it ran a little smother but is still idle rough and I checked the code and it's giving me p2314 again.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 9:11 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
My idle has gotten better than before I changed them. It idles around 500 than 300 and jumped back up to 600. Now I turn my engine over and it idle at 1,000 and a little bit above it as well.
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Thursday, March 14th, 2024 AT 9:14 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,262 POSTS
Hi,

If the spark plugs are good, then we need to start chasing wires. If you look below, I attached diagnostics for the code. Take a look at them and let me know if you are comfortable performing them.

Also, I made the assumption that you cleared the code and then it returned. If that isn't the case, clear it and see if it comes back.

Let me know.

Joe

See pics below.
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Friday, March 15th, 2024 AT 6:36 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
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What's happening?
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Monday, March 18th, 2024 AT 11:17 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,262 POSTS
Is the engine running? It looks like it is based on the tachometer. If that is the case, the first thing to address is the voltage issue. Check to see if it is actually 11v running. That should be around 14v. All you need is a multimeter or voltmeter.

Here is a link that explains how to test the alternator output:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, March 18th, 2024 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
I don't have the serpentine belt on so the alternator isnt charging the battery but my car idle at 1000 and sum but then drops when I put my car in drive and it starts idling very rough and cuts off on me when I release the gas.
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Monday, March 18th, 2024 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
GABETOFYE222
  • MEMBER
  • 20 POSTS
I dont have the serpentine belt on so the alternator isnt charging the battery but my car idle at 1000 and sum but than drops when I put my car in drive and it starts idling very rough and cuts off on me when I release the gas
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Monday, March 18th, 2024 AT 7:58 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi,

Don't run the engine too long with that belt off. The lower voltage can be playing havoc with the electronics. Also, the rough idle is likely still related to the cylinder 5 misfire. By any chance, are you comfortable performing the tests I listed above?

Make sure the belt, when reinstalled, has a good bit of tension on it. Also, before you install the belt, spin all the belt driven accessories to see if there is an excessive drag or play in them.

Let me know.

Joe
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Monday, March 18th, 2024 AT 8:09 PM

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