Car stalls while driving?

Tiny
SUNBURN01
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 1.6L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 248,530 MILES
My car while idling and when I coming to a stop because I am not hitting the gas. I replaced the fuel pump but it is still doing it. Any idea on what it could be? By the way it usually happens after car is warmed up.
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Friday, March 22nd, 2019 AT 10:24 AM

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Tiny
SEVAG PAESEGHIAN
  • EXPERT
Thank for using 2CarPros.

Problem seems from excessive air leak. run our guide step by step it will help to solve your problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

let us know what happens with you.
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Friday, March 22nd, 2019 AT 10:40 AM
Tiny
KR4Z33
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 70,000 MILES
This car has had this problem pretty much since I got it 1yr ago. It dies after it stays warm for a while, running the heater at full blast seems to extend the range a little bit, but it mekes me kind of uncomfortable.

The mass air flow sensor was covered by an extended warranty, and was supposedly failing (per the engine computer's codes), so I had Mazda replace it.

Problem persisted

took it to a shop to diagnose, they said the downstream o2 sensor was faulty and the catalytic convertor needed to be replaced, projected cost was nearly $1000 (OMFG WTF?)

I replaced the o2 sensor

problem persisted

removed the catalyst from the catalytic convertor (I may put a cheaper one downstream later on.) Catalyst was grey and melted, obviously shot.

Car ran a little better, but still the problem persists. Reset the computer, engine light stayed off untill the car sputtered to a pathetic death as I barely got it off the road into my driveway today.

Now, I ask would it help to put in a another new downstream o2 sensor, assuming the first one I put in got burned while living behind my shot catalytic convertor? Any other areas to check on that could cause this kind of behaviour?

Why would a faulty o2 sensor cause a car to die, seems like a flawed design. Old cars didn't have these, it should not be essential for the car to run right? I thought o2 sensors existed to limit emissions and to maximize fuel economy. Shouldn't the computer default to a less efficint operating mode instead of dieing all the time and leaving in the middle of the road waiting for the stupid thing to cool off so I can use it again?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • EXPERT
The O2 sensors are key in adjusting air/fuel ratio for maximum effeciency.

If out of range they will usually default to a rich condition, which will eventually cause the convertor to overheat and melt.
You will have to replace the convertor and O2 sensor, bu you would also want to check the other sensors (scan tool in live data mode) to make sure they are within specs.
Also check fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator (gasoline in the vacuum line). Make sure you are getting good spark.

The Mass Air Flow sensor was propably what caused the failure of the O2 sensors and convertor to fail, since it would default to a rich mixture if bad, causing the convertor to overheat and excessive backpressure causing the O2 sensor to fail.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:16 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOHAN8868
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 MAZDA PROTEGE
Last Night I was driving and was working perfectly Normal. This morning. Tried to start it and no Joy. I do have spark plugs to do a tune-up. Someone suggested to me the fuel filter needs to be replaced. I read online the filter should not need servicing.

Symptom: Stalling

1.) IF I hold the gas it will start AND keep running. When it starts it doesn't slowly cut off it goes from running normally (with my foot on gas) to off.

Miscellaneous Info:
Last night I used A/c to keep warm and Normally don't use it at all.
The temp dropped to around 36 degrees last night.
The lights don't dim when it starts.
Half Tank of Gas
No Check engine light.
I have maximum anti-freeze in res.
Car is in park
Everything acts just as it should except for stalling
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • EXPERT
So you cant get it to keep running?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GOHAN8868
  • MEMBER
No I couldn't keep it running. But wed (the next day) it started up like nothing happened the day before.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FIXITMR
  • EXPERT
How is it now? Sounds like maybe IAC stuck or malfunctioned?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TSONTAG
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 178,500 MILES
My car is loosing idle after taking out the battery. It has been replaced as it stalled and then died completely. The car idles irregular then eventually fixes itself to a normal idle? What causes this?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Check the idle control motor, you can clean them, but often they will need replacing, also a scan will help with checking for any unresolved fault codes that may need attention as well.

Mark (mhpautos)
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACHBK
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Hello, first time here. I was driving my car the other day, running fine no issues, and parked it and left it running while I ran inside. I came back out five minutes later put it in reverse and made it about five feet and the car shut off. Cranked and cranked but no start.

I checked for spark and there was none. I only checked one plug. Also pulled the back seat and checked fuel pump for power and it does have power running to it. Cranked engine over again and can not hear fuel pump running. I have pulled the connectors from the coil packs to check continuity And they both have power going to them. It looks that the coil packs are controlled from the ECM, since I do not see a distributor. So I am guessing the ECM is at fault. And have a used one on order. I have read that they do not need to be reprogrammed if you get matching part numbers. Can you confirm this. And also am I correct on the ECM going bad, or have I missed some steps. Also the fuse for the ECM is good.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com

Since you lost spark, I think there is a better chance the crankshaft position sensor may have failed.

Take a look at this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

What I suggest is this. Get your hands on a live data scanner. Often times, parts stores will rent one to you. Plug the scanner is and go to live data, RPM. Crank the engine and check if the RPM's increase. If there is no signal from the sensor, you will not get an RPM signal. With that in mind, chances are the sensor has failed, is out of adjustment, or even a piece of dirt getting in it can cause this. If you can confirm this, I would start with the sensor.

Here is a general link that shows how to replace a crankshaft sensor:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/crankshaft-angle-sensor-replacement

Here are directions for testing the sensor itself. It requires the use of a volt meter/multi meter. Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

How to test wiring:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Here are the directions for testing the sensor:
_______________________________________________________________
RESISTANCE INSPECTION
1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector. See picture 3

2. Measure the resistance between CKP sensor terminals A and B using an ohmmeter.

Specification: Approx. 550 Ohm

- If not as specified, replace the CKP sensor.
_______________________________________________-

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for replacing one. The attached picture correlates with the directions.

CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION
CAUTION: When foreign material such as an iron chip is on the CKP sensor, it can cause abnormal output from the sensor because of flux turbulence and adversely affect the engine control. Be sure there is no foreign material on the CKP sensor when replacing.

1. Disconnect the CKP sensor connector.
2. Remove the undercover.
3. Remove the CKP sensor installation bolt.
4. Install in the reverse order of removal.

Tightening torque
7.9 - 10.7 Nm (80 - 110 kg.cm, 69.5 - 95.4 in.lb)

5. Reconnect the CKP sensor connector.

CAUTION: Do not forcefully pull the wiring harness of the CKP sensor. Doing so will break the harness.

6. Adjust the air gap. (Refer to CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR ADJUSTMENT.)
See: Crankshaft Position Sensor > Adjustments

_________________________

Here are the directions for adjustment of air gap.

Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor Adjustment
CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR ADJUSTMENT

1. Loosen the CKP sensor installation bolt.

2. While moving the CKP sensor, adjust the air gap between the CKP sensor and the plate teeth on the plate using a feeler gauge.
- If not adjusted within specification, replace the plate behind the crankshaft pulley or CKP sensor.

Specification: 0.5 - 1.5 mm (0.020 - 0.059 in)

3. Tighten the CKP sensor installation bolt.

Tightening torque
7.9 - 10.7 Nm (80 - 110 kg.cm, 69.5 - 95.4 in.lb)

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACHBK
  • MEMBER
Awesome! Thanks for the detailed answer just what I was looking for! I will be checking that sensor out tomorrow and let you know what I find out. The ohms for the sensor are to read five hundred and fifty? That seems off just by reading it but I will be checking it tomorrow any way.
Also, for the ECM question do they need to be reprogrammed if you find matching part numbers?
I had unplugged the ECM and inspected to the board to see if anything looked out of place or not correct, now I am worried that disconnecting it and now reconnecting it might make my life a little harder by possibly locking the car into some sort of safety mode. Would this be possible?
And to go with your answer about using a scan tool with live data, I had failed to mention that I hooked my personal one up and was unable to connect to the vehicle. I borrowed a friends and had the same problem. Before all this happened I had to have the engine running to connect to the vehicle to read engine codes.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:
If you are using the same ECM, there should not be an issue with disconnecting it. Just make sure to reconnect it prior to reconnecting the battery.

As far as the scanner issue, check the DLC wiring to make sure none of the pins are pushed in or damaged.

Let me know if you need anything,

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ZACHBK
  • MEMBER
Hello again, wanted to let you know that I have the vehicle running again. Your help was greatly appreciated! To let you know the ckp sensor passed all the tests which let me to start from scratch and had found out that I had over looked the INJ OR FIP 30 amp fuse. This was the cause of my problems as I had replaced it and the vehicle started right up. Any chance you could give me information on what that fuse is for and possible causes of it failing?
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
That is good news. Honestly, the fuse may have been old. However, it powers the main relay and transmission. I attached a section of the schematic for you to see. Other than that, a bad ground, the relay is going bad, or a short.

Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BETHWAH
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 MAZDA PROTEGE
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 64,000 MILES
Hi, replaced the timing belt on the car listed above, and the car now stalls on idle and chokes off when hitting accelerator. Verified all timing marks are correctly aligned, replaced mass air flow sensor, cleaned EGR, tested compression and fuel pressure. Any thoughts? At a loss, thanks!

(Original codes: PO171, P0455, no longer present since initial diagnostic).
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
What was fuel pressure when you checked it. Should be 41-46 psi key on only if not that may be the problem as you had a 171 code. Also the 455 code is a massive evaporator canister leak so that should be smoke tested to find it or lines were hooked up wrong. Also, check for air leaks like from air cleaner to throttle body.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:17 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BETHWAH
  • MEMBER
Thank you so much! Will try this first thing in the morning and let you know how we did.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BETHWAH
  • MEMBER
Fuel pressure is key on, engine off: 0 psi, with car running, 39 psi.
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BETHWAH
  • MEMBER
Installing new fuel pump, will keep you posted!
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Tuesday, August 4th, 2020 AT 12:18 PM (Merged)

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