Car shut off while driving, has not started since?

Tiny
STEVE ROBERTS2
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 TOYOTA RAV4
  • 2.0L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • 278,000 MILES
I ran out of gas in November 2022. Was brought some by a friend. Got to the store less than a mile away. I left the car running while I went inside. Had friends with me so no need to turn it off. When I walked back outside the car sputtered and cut off. I replaced the fuel pump first. The spark plugs. All coil packs. And crank sensor. Managed to start the car and drive it a very short distance twice. When it cut off on me driving the second time it has not started since. The RPMs won't even register. It stays at 0. It turns over but will not start.
Friday, October 20th, 2023 AT 12:24 AM

3 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,217 POSTS
Hi,

If the tachometer isn't moving, you may have gotten a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Do me a favor. See if the engine will start if you use starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we know its fuel related. If there is no change, it's likely an ignition issue (CKP). In this case, check to see if there is spark to the plugs.

Here is a link that explains how it's done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Let me know. Also, let me know if you used a factory crankshaft position sensor.

Take care,

Joe
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Friday, October 20th, 2023 AT 3:13 PM
Tiny
STEVE ROBERTS2
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
I tried long ago using starting fluid. Nothing. I got the crank sensor from the parts store. But I can tell you also when I changed all the coil packs (ordered from Ebay with a warranty) that is the second time I got it started. I went to a gas station 1/4 mile away and during that short trip it seemed to have a skip. Got back to my friend's house. Picked him up. Drove another 2 maybe 3 miles and it cut off while I was driving. And it hasn't started since. Very frustrating. Because that thing runs like a brand new one. Very strong engine.
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Friday, October 20th, 2023 AT 4:22 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,217 POSTS
Steve,

If there is no movement in the tachometer when cranking the engine, that is usually the result of a faulty crankshaft position sensor. If you have a live data scanner, see if there is an RPM signal when cranking the engine. If there isn't we need to go back to the CKP.

As far as the coils are concerned, I would think all would fail at the same time. If there was no change when you used starting fluid, none of them were getting spark.

Here is what I recommend: Before even checking the CKP, let's first determine if there is power to the coils. At each coil, there are 4 wires. Each connector will have a black wire with a white tracer. With the key on, check to see if they have power. If they do, we need to check the ground.

The ground for each coil is a common ground. They all use the same one. So, at each coil, locate the white wire with a black tracer. With the key off, check if there is continuity to ground. If we have both power and ground, either the CKP is bad, or the ECM has failed. I will explain how to check that once we get past this issue.

Additionally, we have relays to contend with. If there is no power to the coils, check the fuses I highlighted in the attached pic. (pic 2). If the fuses are good and we have no power at the coils, we need to check the relays and the relay circuits.

Here is a link that shows how that is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-an-electrical-relay-and-wiring-control-circuit

I attached two pics below. In pic 2, the fuse box is under the hood except for the IG2 fuse (10 amp). It is in the driver's side interior fuse box behind the dash.

When you check the fuses (especially the one in the vehicle) even if the fuse is good, confirm there is power to it. The key will need to be in the run position for that fuse to have power.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
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Friday, October 20th, 2023 AT 9:22 PM

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