You don't have those hydraulic parts when you have a cable system. What CJ is suggesting is that cable may have stretched over time. The result is the same as when you don't push the clutch pedal far enough. That will also make it difficult to switch gears.
Another thing you might look for is a lot of cars now that use cables use a toothed rack that drops down onto the pedal when you push that pedal. The idea is as soon as you move the pedal an inch or two, it allows that toothed assembly to drop down and catch on the teeth on the pedal, above its pivot point. From then on, pushing the pedal further tugs on that toothed assembly which is connected to the cable. This arrangement is supposed to keep the cable in constant adjustment. In fact, that system causes more problems than it prevents. Specifically, if the grease that toothed lever rides on gets hardened with age, or cold, it causes that toothed lever to drop too slowly. It doesn't engage until you already have the pedal pushed half way to the floor. To identify this cause, push the clutch pedal only about two inches, hesitate there for a few seconds, then continue to push it the rest of the way. If that works, have the pivot cleaned and relubricated.
Be aware too that you can up-shift without even using the clutch pedal. This isn't recommended for daily driving, but it can allow you to drive using all the gears. Start out in first gear, then hold the engine's speed steady while you slide the transmission out of gear. Hold pressure on the shift lever toward second gear. As engine speed slows down, the transmission will drop into second gear when engine speed matches wheel speed. It will jerk a little, but once you get the hang of it, you be able to shift into any gear when engine speed and wheel speed make the gears in the transmission rotate at the same speed. Race car drivers use this technique a lot because racing clutches can be really hard to push.
Friday, December 2nd, 2016 AT 4:08 PM