CAM and crank position sensors?

From the description I want to ask why you changed the sensors? Are the new parts all OEM pieces? What was the initial complaint?

Do you still have the old ones? I suspect at least one of the new parts is faulty. Swap out the new parts with an old one and see if it suddenly runs. Look at each connector as you go through the system.

You say you have a scanner, is it a tool that can show you live OBD data from the sensors? Or is it more just a code reader type tool? The other thing you could try is just unplug the crank sensor(s) and see if anything changes, most engine controls have default strategies to deal with the loss of signals from cam or crank sensors (but not both). It might take 2-3 revolutions to start but they will generally run. The thing that bothers me is that it was running really bad with all those codes. I likely would have scoped the sensors to see what they were seeing as a bad cam phaser or timing chain wear can cause a lot of codes and poor running.

Okay, that will limit what you can do. Does it show any codes now? Do you recall the codes it had? Post what you have, it might help point at a simpler solution.

That is the issue with just a code reader. A full function scan tool could actually watch the signals from the sensors.

Well looking at the codes in this case all of them point to the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. I would unplug it and check the condition of the pins and connector. With the key on does the throttle work?
P0123 - TPS 1 output high (over 4.75v) for more than.1 sec
P0222 - TPS 2 output low (below.25v) for more than.1 sec
P1295 - Power Throttle Actuator Control System - Power Management Mode (Turn on the MIL if the ECU activates limp mode)
P2106 - Throttle Actuator Control System - Forced Limited Power (Turn on the MIL and activate limp mode)
This is from the service info as well - If P1295 and P2106 occur at the same time, first check ETC items (TPS or ETC motor).
There is also a TSB ( ENG 044 ) about the TPS sensor failing, it's replacement and a software update for it.

That's about the only way, however that won't tell you if the TPS is bad. Again, that is where a live data tool would help as you could step on the pedal and watch the voltage and percentage on the opening. Or inspect that connection and if it's okay just replace the TPS and see if the faults go away.

You can but they are a continuous code test. IE- as soon as the relay turns on and sends voltage to the ETC it starts running the code tests. I would check the connection to see if there is any corrosion and that it is seated. While you have it unplugged you could check for powers and grounds. The first image is the wires in the connector. Pins 1, 2 and 4 are TPS 1 Pins 3.6 and 7 are TPS 2 With the key on there should be 5 volts at pins 4 and 7. Then you should have a ground at pins 1 and 6.