If it goes up and down when the door is open, but makes no noise or operation when closed, I would check for broken wires in the door hinge pass through. With the door open, manipulate the harness and see if operation is affected.
November, 6, 2009 AT 7:41 PM
I did notice that there is a slight (very faint) click when the switch is activated.
The wiring from the chaissis to the door appears to be in a rubber jacketed ridgid conduit. I am unable to feel the wires or make them move.
Moving the conduit does not affect the operation of the window. The door must be opened about 18" before the window works and if I begin to close the door while on auto down the window will stop.
November, 7, 2009 AT 12:20 PM
The way the system operates is each door has a respective door module. Requests from the dedicated door switch, or the drivers door switch are sent to this module, which is in the door, and it processes the request and executes. These modules also have powers and grounds that I am speculating, is what you are losing. You should be able to grasp and tweak this conduit, to get to the inside you would have to remove the center pillar trim. In some cases there is a connector at the pass through, and there could be a connection issue like a loose terminal at that. It has to be at a location where there is some movement. Try entering diagnostics by pressing 'info' up, and 'on/off' on the instrument panel. After the segment check you should see PCM? On the info center. Use the info button to scroll up or down alphabetically, the module you are after should be RRDM(right rear door module), and press on/off to select. You will either see RRDM codes, or RRDM clear codes, info button will select, we want RRDM codes. See what codes are present and report. Try this with the door closed, and then try it again with the door open. When the window is inoperative, what we might expect to see is 'No RRDM data', and that could indicate a power/ground loss to the module, and support what I am describing. In either aspect, there should be a code(s) in the RRDM.
November, 17, 2009 AT 1:27 PM
I could not get the codes to read RRDM I did get a code for RRD of 2509.I also managed to erase all of the codes and then had to jump start the car. I hope that this was a co-incidence.
When I became aggressive an attacked the hinge conduit I was able to stop and start the window.
Does this indicate that a wire is broken in the conduit or loose inside the door? Yes?
Not sure that I am able to ready to remove the door panel I should get a service manual.
November, 17, 2009 AT 9:44 PM
I did not get any information on a 2509 in any module. The jump start was only a coincidence if you left the key on for a significant amount of time, or you have a battery that is on the fritz. I would speculate that if you could get operation by playing with the conduit, you have a wire or terminal issue. I don't show(or have not found) if there is a connector at the pillar that feeds the door. If there was a connector there, I would check it first. It is a relatively new vehicle, with low miles, to suspect a broken wire, especially in a rear door. The wiring could have a manufacturing issue that shortened it's life, although.
February, 22, 2010 AT 3:12 PM
I have the same problem. The window only works when the door is open. Additional if the car sits over night the battery goes dead. I suspect a door module problen but am not sure. I have a constant drain on the battery (more than just a memory drain)
but I have to remove several fuses to stop the drain.
February, 24, 2010 AT 12:49 AM
Is this issue with the left front door, and is the radio staying on when the door is opened and key is off? The battery drain may be a seperate issue, or the retained accessory power is not disabling, indicated by the radio staying on, and the courtesy lights not turning on. All of this would be occurring on the same door with the window issue for me to suspect that they are related.
February, 24, 2010 AT 8:02 AM
The issue is with the left rear door. It is the only window that does not work with the doors closed. It will, however, work if you open that door. The courtesy lights and radio turn off in the approiate amount of time.
February, 25, 2010 AT 12:14 AM
If it does not work with the left front, or dedicated window switch, then I would suspect wiring issues in or near the door. If you grab the harness where it passes from the door to the body and manipulate it, can you get any change in operation/inoperation. It is likely that your battery drain is unrelated, what fuses are you removing, and how did you come to the conclusion it was those fuses?
February, 25, 2010 AT 4:08 PM
I made a jumper with a 12 volt bulb. I then disconected the battery positive lead from the fuse box and put the jumper in between. Then pulled all fuses in the rear section (I disconected the power lead to the engine compartment compleatly) and than replaced one fuse at a time. When a fuse made the bulb very bright I removed that fuse and marked it in my book. In the end I had 7 fuses that produced a large drain when each was installed. They were: #2 Heat, ventulation air conditioning battery
#3 Memory seat and telescopic steering
#5 Driver door module
#18 Right rear door Module
#25 Passenger door module
#29 Ignition switch
Moving the wires does not seem to make a difference in the window operation.