2001 Cadillac Deville 2001 Deville ABS, Brake, Traction Warn

Tiny
JIMMIEZ
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CADILLAC DEVILLE
  • V8
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 32,000 MILES
The ABS, Brakes, and Traction warning lights had come on occasionally, but now remain on all the time. It's never one, or two of the lights, but always all three that stay on. I don't know how, nor have equipment to retrieve codes. What would be the troubleshooting steps I need to take to isolate the problem? Thanks.
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Saturday, April 19th, 2008 AT 10:33 PM

17 Replies

Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
In this case, you are going to need a scanner that can watch the speed sensors results in real time. Not to say it is a speed sensor at fault, but often it is. May be a wiring harness as the next most common fault.

It may be worthwhile to pick up a code reader or have AutoZone check the codes. It may or may not have one in there.

When one or more sensor signals drops out, the computer thinks thinks the car is into a skid or at least knows that all four wheels appear to not be going the same speed. When it sees this it throw the ABS light and sometimes the Red brake light as in you case. The Traction control is also disabled.

You can do a visual inspection of the harnesses to be sure they look good and are attached. IF you have any wheelbearings going bad, most notably shown by a hum or play in the bearing, that may direct you to the source as well as the the sensor is part of the bearing on those I believe.
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Sunday, April 20th, 2008 AT 5:20 AM
Tiny
JIMMIEZ
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the info. I'll pursue that direction.
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Monday, April 21st, 2008 AT 8:06 PM
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MEMBER
Also Service Writer he needs to ck the brake fluid it can cause this prob, pads may be warn enough to have it come on
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Friday, April 25th, 2008 AT 9:44 PM
Tiny
JIMMIEZ
  • MEMBER
Thanks Buzzsaw, fluid and pads are fine. Had them checked about 4 months ago. No audible bearing noise. I did a visual on the leads and they look fine. Removed/cleaned connector terminals at each wheel with LPS in case they may have been dirty. No help. Will a scan determine which sensor, if any is the problem?
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Monday, April 28th, 2008 AT 9:15 PM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
A scanner that is capable of reading the wheel speed input will. It will show what the computerfor that system is being told by the speed sensor.
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Tuesday, April 29th, 2008 AT 5:48 AM
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MEMBER
Scan your codes, off and down on your mode button with the key in the on position, get a peice of paper to write them down, look in the message center for the codes, like Service Writer says it might be the VSS or a wheel sensor
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Tuesday, April 29th, 2008 AT 12:04 PM
Tiny
JIMMIEZ
  • MEMBER
Thanks Service Writer and Buzzsaw.
Autozone scanned the engine codes and there were none. This issue never showed the MIL, just the three warning lights. The 3 lights stay on when the vehicle is stopped (obviously all wheels going the same speed). Is it correct to assume there is NO signal from one of the wheel sensors? If so, can wheel sensors be jumpered one at a time to determine which may not be sending a signal? How? As I said earlier, I don't have a scanner. Where I'm going here is to determine if I can diagnose which sensor is bad and can I (a better than average though untrained mechanic) replace the wheel bearing assembly?
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Tuesday, April 29th, 2008 AT 9:16 PM
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MEMBER
Scan your codes like I asked to on the last reply, caddies dont need a scan tool, they have self diagnostics. If lights are on you have codes
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Wednesday, April 30th, 2008 AT 9:52 PM
Tiny
JIMMIEZ
  • MEMBER
Thanks, Buzzsaw. The DIC doesn't show any messages that any systems are malfunctioning. The brakes work fine, although I've not been in any driving conditions that would activate the ABS. What if the brake control module itself is bad and sending erroneous signal, then the ABS and Traction Control systems drop out because the brake warning light is on?
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Sunday, May 11th, 2008 AT 9:24 PM
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MEMBER
Pull your codes, off and down on the mode button or off at the same time, with the key in the on position

it would show U codes if it wasnt responding
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Tuesday, May 13th, 2008 AT 11:12 AM
Tiny
JIMMIEZ
  • MEMBER
After many attempts, I just can't seem to find the right combination of pushing buttons with the mode switch to see any codes. Engine off, key in on position. Can you be more specific on what sequence/combo etc of buttons to push? Thanks again for your help.
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Friday, May 16th, 2008 AT 11:19 PM
Tiny
BUZZSAW
  • MEMBER
Can you take a pictire of your heater controls for me to see
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Saturday, May 17th, 2008 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
JIMMIEZ
  • MEMBER


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/58038_061008_1816_2.jpg



Sorry to leave everyone hanging on this one...above is pic of heater control panel. I had to get the issue solved before going on vacation, so took to repair shop where a faulty brake control module was found. Replacement required re-programming of module by dealer, but repair was successful...about $1200 worth.
Would appreciate answer regarding how to read codes on this vehicle for future reference. Thanks for the help.
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Sunday, October 5th, 2008 AT 10:35 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Does your cruise control work okay? Might sound odd but on Mercedes MLs, the all these systems run through the brake switch on the brake pedal. That switch was replaced and it cleared the other systems to include allowing the cruise to work.
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Wednesday, October 8th, 2008 AT 9:50 PM
Tiny
JIMMIEZ
  • MEMBER
Cruise worked fine all through the warning light issue. Had no brake performance problems either, except that ABS never activated (but don't know if a situation ever arose that required it). I'm closing this issue as it has been solved. Hope the dialogue helps anyone with a similar issue.
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Wednesday, October 15th, 2008 AT 6:39 PM
Tiny
JNOVACK
  • EXPERT


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/52960_brake2_1.jpg

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Friday, October 17th, 2008 AT 5:28 PM
Tiny
MISSY73
  • MEMBER
Hi,
I have one of these hunk of craps and I have had the same problem at 72,000 miles. The EBTCM is what it is called that went bad in your car.
You need to hold the INFO and On/Off button at the same time while the car is on. I know I have done it a few times already.
No sensor light or anything comes on when you have a bad wheel bearing. I had replaced the drivers side at 75,000 miles and I just replaced the passenger side at 121,000 miles.
These cars yeah look pretty but they are electrical MESSES.
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2009 AT 7:21 AM

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