ENGINE STOPS WORKING WHI

1992 Cadillac Deville

Tiny

carbeard

February, 13, 2009 AT 1:00 PM

Engine Performance problem
1992 Cadillac Deville V8 Front Wheel Drive Automatic 100000 miles

My mom's 92 Cadillac Deville stops running while it is being driven. It doesn't do anything dramatic, the engine just stops running. She has to put the car into neutral, turn it off, and re-start it while it is coasting.

She says it doesn't happen when she is accelerating.

This has been kind of an intermittent problem, but now, the car won't even stay running long enough to get it out of the driveway.

Thanks in advance for any advice you might offer.

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Tiny

ImpalaSS

February, 13, 2009 AT 4:16 PM

Hello -

To better assist you please tell me if your model is just a DeVille or the Touring model. Also the engine size in liter and the 8th digit of your VIN.

Please do the following so we can check the codes on the car.

Turn ignition on. Simultaneously depress OFF and WARMER buttons on Electronic Climate Control Panel (ECCP) and hold until all segments of Fuel Data Center (FDC) and ECCP glow. This indicates beginning of diagnostic readout.

1. Segment check of FDC and ECCP ensures all display segments are working properly. If all segments glow, proceed to DISPLAYING TROUBLE CODES. Trouble codes are displayed on FDC.
2. If any segment fails to glow, diagnosis should not be attempted as it could lead to inaccurate test results. An inoperative panel must be replaced before proceeding with self-diagnostic process.
NOTE: Following completion of segment check, system automatically enters self-diagnostic mode.
3. After all BCM and PCM codes have been displayed or if no codes are present, ".7.0" will be displayed and system is ready for next diagnostic feature to be selected. See DIAGNOSTIC TESTING.
Following segment check (see ENTERING SELF-DIAGNOSTICS under SELF-DIAGNOSTIC SYSTEM), numerals "8.8.8." Appear on FDC for one second. Display of these 3 numerals signals trouble code display is about to begin.
NOTE: After display of all PCM and BCM trouble codes, ".7.0" will be displayed on FDC. ".7.0" indicates system is ready for a diagnostic feature to be selected. See DIAGNOSTIC TESTING.
PCM Trouble Codes Display
1. Following one-second display of "8.8.8.", "E" appears on FDC. "E" indicates 2 passes through PCM trouble code display cycle are about to begin. First pass through PCM trouble code cycle displays trouble codes stored in memory, including history and current trouble codes; second pass displays only current trouble codes.
2. History trouble codes are those set in response to a malfunction that occurred during past 50 key cycles but not during present key cycle. Current trouble codes represent malfunctions currently taking place. All trouble codes displayed during this cycle are prefixed by "E". If no "E" codes are present, display will be by-passed.
3. Immediately following first pass through cycle of PCM trouble codes, second pass begins, during which only current trouble codes are displayed. These codes are prefixed by "E.E.", Indicating related malfunction is currently taking place.

BCM Trouble Codes Display
Following display of PCM trouble codes, 2 cycles of BCM trouble codes will be displayed. BCM trouble codes are prefixed by "F" or "F.F.". "F" precedes first pass of BCM trouble codes, which is a display of both history and current trouble codes. "F.F." Precedes second pass of BCM trouble codes, which is a display of current trouble codes only.

EXITING DIAGNOSTICS
To exit diagnostic mode, depress AUTO button or turn ignition switch off for 10 seconds. Temperature setting will reappear in display panel. Trouble codes are not erased when this is done.

We also need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don't have your hands on any part of the metal! If there is no spark, then it is electrical.

If you are getting good spark then spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and try to start it and see if it tries to start then.

You may need to get a fuel pressure check on the fuel pump to ensure it is putting out okay. We will see.

Tiny

carbeard

February, 15, 2009 AT 2:56 PM

Thank you for your quick reply.

It is just the plain Deville model. It has a 4.9L V8 SPFI Engine, Automatic Transmission w/Overdrive.

The VIN: B

Do I need to be using a diagnostic computer to follow the rest of the instructions? (I don't have one) I held down the " Off" and " Warmer" buttons, and the only thing I was able to do was get it to show.7.0 on the fuel display.

She has taken it to the shop before, and they used a diagnostic computer, but it didn't show anything was wrong.

Tiny

ImpalaSS

February, 15, 2009 AT 11:54 PM

Okay - thanks for the info and update.

If you did the check as it says. Then that means there are no codes.

Did you do the other check for me? I will attach it again.

We also need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don't have your hands on any part of the metal! If there is no spark, then it is electrical.

If you are getting good spark then spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and try to start it and see if it tries to start then.

You may need to get a fuel pressure check on the fuel pump to ensure it is putting out okay. We will see.

Tiny

carbeard

February, 16, 2009 AT 1:34 PM

The car is starting now, so I took it to a mechanic, and of course, he wasn't able to reproduce the problem. He checked the fuel pressure, ran the computer again, and he thinks that it's something in the transmission (some kind of solenoid, I forgot-I'll ask him when I pick it up later today).

They don't do transmissions, so I'm back to square one.

Could it really have anything to do with the transmission? It seems like some kind of idling or fuel pump problem.

Tiny

ImpalaSS

February, 16, 2009 AT 9:50 PM

Hello -

I would be interested to know what part in the transmission he feels is causing this.

Did he say what the fuel pressure was?

It may be something heating up. But I still need you to do these couple of checks right when it happens. That will help us determine if it is electrical or fuel.

We need to figure out if it is electrical or fuel related. Pull a plug wire off of the spark plug and insert something into the end of it and have someone try to start the car and have the metal object really close to a piece of metal on the engine and see if you are getting a good strong popping blue spark. Don't have your hands on any part of the metal! If there is no spark, then it is electrical.

If you are getting good spark then spray some starting fluid in the throttle body and try to start it and see if it tries to start then.

Tiny

carbeard

February, 17, 2009 AT 8:23 PM

OK, I just got the car back today, but the mechanic who proposed the transmission idea wasn't in today.

I don't think that I could do your tests, because the car is going back to its normal self, where it will stay started and drive, but then die out while being driven. When this happens, it always seems to start back up while rolling, so I wouldn't even be able to do the test.

I recently had the chance to drive it while the engine died. It died so quietly (no sputtering, jerking, or loud sounds) that I didn't even notice until I tried to accelerate. For this reason, I think that it is electrical.

Are there things that I can replace (fuel pump relay, distributor cap computer control module, etc.) That can have intermittent problems, and might eliminate " simple fixes"?

Thanks in advance for your advice.

Tiny

ImpalaSS

February, 17, 2009 AT 9:22 PM

Hello -

Well, I understand your thought that it may me electrical. It may. But a fuel pump going bad will give the same. Depending on how it dies. It may just drift off enough to kill the engine without jerking especially if it is a quick no gas. You may have a module heating up and cutting out. Could be many things.

Simple fixes. Well, to be honest we could start replacing things but I feel that would not be in your best interest. We want to make sure we save you money. Replacing parts without knowing if they are bad can get expensive and I don't feel that would be treating you fairly.

If you can - find out what the fuel pressure was from the mechanic when he is in. Did he write in on the ticket or anything?

My suggestion to you though it is a pain. Keep the above tests in mind and the second it doesn't start right back up. Then check for the spark and fuel. I would get all the tools needed and the starting fluid and just have it in the car. That way you are prepared and ready.

To me again, would not be saving you money and in your best interest.

If you would like I would be more than happy to refer you to another moderator to get their opinion. Up to you - just let me know.

Tiny

carbeard

February, 20, 2009 AT 12:05 AM

Idle speed control motor. FIXED. BOOYAH!

Tiny

ImpalaSS

February, 20, 2009 AT 4:12 PM

Hello -

Fantastic! How did you find that was the problem so other customers will know.

Tiny

cyndi77@msn.com

July, 14, 2009 AT 2:34 PM

My 92 cadi has the same symtoms of your moms car. I would really appreciate more info on this. Thank you

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