1990 Cadillac Deville ***MY Cadillac WONT START, HEEEELP ME

Tiny
MARKTAYLOR_254
  • MEMBER
  • 1990 CADILLAC DEVILLE
  • V8
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
I have been experiencing this problem for the pass 3 months and basically Im having trouble getting my car to turn over properly. It started when the wheather changed (from cold to hot), but I replaced the battery and also had the "ignition switch replaced" and a new key made but im still experiencing the same symptoms. My dad told me it could be a bad cell in the battery but im getting the proper readings on my volt meter. I would basically drive the car fine all day and then the next day I go to turn it on, it wouldnt start as if the battery is dead, still displaying all lights and fuel pump active. If I come back out later on that day it might start or itll continue to act dead- doesnt change due to wheater. Starter and Altnator are good to my knowledge, maybe I need to reevaluate them. Could it be a misfire in the spark plugs, because I havent replaced them? LOOKING FOR AS MANY POSSIBILITIES AS POSSIBLY, VERY DESPERATE FOR INFORMATION- PLEASE HELP. THANKS TO ANYONE READING THIS.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2009 AT 1:54 PM

4 Replies

Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • EXPERT
If it is a concern with the speed that it turns over when the key is first placed in the crank position, it would not be solved by plugs. Have you got a trickle or otherwise low amps charger that can be placed on it overnight, see how it performs the morning after. A battery can gain some charge as it warms, that could explain it starting after waiting a bit. Have the battery load tested, it should maintain 9-10 volts after 15 seconds of a load that is half the CCA rating. For example if it is a 660 CCA battery, it should remain over 9-10 volts when loaded to 330 amps for 15 seconds. Tight and clean cable connections, tight and clean starter connections, a good-clean engine ground, all can play a part.
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Thursday, June 18th, 2009 AT 10:23 PM
Tiny
MARKTAYLOR_254
  • MEMBER
I have a question in regaurds to the Neutral Safety Switch as well. I was following the purple wire from the starter (because it appeared to look a bit rough) to find it connected to the NSS. I just want to know, what is its purpose in relation to the starter/ and how can fixing it help my ignition problem?
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Friday, June 19th, 2009 AT 1:59 AM
Tiny
FACTORYJACK
  • EXPERT
I don't quite understand your question. The neutral safety switch is just that, it prevents the starter recieving a signal in any gear other than neutral, or park, which is basically neutral with a mechanical lock. What do you mean by 'looking a bit rough', is the insulation cracking and brittle. Could be caused by heat from the exhaust. Bare wire is obviously a potential problem. If you are having a problem with cranking speed, the signal wire is not going to cause it. Just the fact that it is cranking eliminates the signal wire as being the cause.
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Saturday, June 20th, 2009 AT 1:20 AM
Tiny
MARKTAYLOR_254
  • MEMBER
Thanks GStacey, I appreciate your help. Very helpful- Well replacing the Neutral Safety Switch didnt resolve my problem but I finally got somewhere working on it today. My dad was using my battery to start his Suburban and he let it run for roughly 30-45 minutes, he took it out and placed it in my car not thinking anything of it but when he started the engine, IT CRANKED! And this car has not been working for a couple of days since we've been examinating it. Im coming to the conclusion that its the Altenator, just for the fact that his Suburban had to have given my battery a charge to manage the crank BUT my alternator check good on the volt meter. Is there a possibility that it could still check good on the meter but be a weak alternator, bad cell in the battery, dont know. Thanks to anyone listening---

Also what is the Amp on a standard Alternator for my vehicle?
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Monday, June 22nd, 2009 AT 12:30 AM

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