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1995 Buick Regal

Tiny
HUGMELUV
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 BUICK REGAL
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 166,000 MILES
There is no break fluid flowing thur the cylinders the break pedal gets hard and smoke comes from the tires I replaced the master cylinder and abs and put rotors and cylinders all around and the shop blew out the lines and it drove for a day now doing the same thing
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Friday, February 27th, 2009 AT 7:44 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
Should have replaced the power brake booster as well. It controls the pedal feel. If your pedal is hard to step, the booster is bad.

Did the shop make sure all of your calipers in good condition? No sticking caliper piston? Did they bleed the brake system?
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Saturday, February 28th, 2009 AT 12:05 AM
Tiny
HUGMELUV
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  • 8 POSTS
Yes they replaced the calipers and the rotors and bleed the breaks it worked for a min but they said that it could not be the power booster because when we take it to them it is soft again it goes in and out could it be the break lines collasping or rotted
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Sunday, March 1st, 2009 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
Your original post stated that the brake pedal got hard. After everything was replaced, it was fine for a day, and then it got hard again. By the time you got back to the shop, the brake was soft again. Right?

One of two possibilities:

1. Collapsing brake hoses, as you said. They must have seen the brake hoses as they were replacing the calipers. I am surprised they didn't tell you to replace the hoses, if they are bad.

2. Improper bleeding. You did say that you replaced the master cylinder, ABS module and calipers. Rotors are not a part of the hydraulic system, rather the mechanical part. Brake bleeding for ABS-equipped vehicle is different than the conventional brake bleeding. A Tech 1 scan tool or equivalent is required to properly bleed ABS-equipped vehicles. You may want to ask them how they did the bleeding. If they said nothing about hooking up a scan tool into the ABS system (especially when ABS module was replaced), then they didn't bleed your system right.
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Monday, March 2nd, 2009 AT 12:36 AM
Tiny
HUGMELUV
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I will do tht I will take it tomarrow to the shop and let u know if tht worked could it be the proportioning valve we are at wits end with this the two front brakelines was replaced and still no fluid I dont know if I stated tht earlier we asked them to replace the brake booster and they said it could not be tht but I will do tht aswell thank u
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 4:27 AM
Tiny
HUGMELUV
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
How do I change the brake booster myself is it difficult to do or should I take it to the shop and after changing it do I bleed the brakes
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 4:48 AM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
Replacing the booster is not hard at all. But don't do that just yet. Replacing it at this point in time may be just a waste of $200.

Have them re-check the entire system first including the proportioning valves, re-bleed the system again if necessary.
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Wednesday, April 15th, 2009 AT 9:43 PM
Tiny
HUGMELUV
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  • 8 POSTS
I will do tht but question where is the proportioning valve located at
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Sunday, April 19th, 2009 AT 9:07 PM
Tiny
ZACKMAN
  • MECHANIC
  • 4,202 POSTS
I stand corrected. In your case, your proportioning valves are inside the master cylinder. But, as I have said earlier, your ABS system should be reset using Tech 2 scan tool. That is the only way to properly bleed your ABS system.

That is the main reason why your brake system works one day after repair, and back to problematic the next day.
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Tuesday, April 21st, 2009 AT 11:30 PM
Tiny
HUGMELUV
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Ok good because no shop wants to work on the car they said the proportioning vavle was to hard to change and one said it dont hav a proportioning valve and tht the booster is not bad because it flows thur sometime and would not change it now there is brake fluid on the ground I am thinking about just selling it, it has been sitting and noone wants to work on it saying they cant figure out why the pedal keep getting hard and no fluid is getting to the front brakes and tht there should not be any air in the lines because they were blown out I am at wits end now cna I buy the tool and do this myself and could the actulator rod or the one going from the brake pedal be to tight if u can t help me wit this one I am putting it up for sale as is and one more question tht is a used master cylinder can it be bad and should I put the old one back on since the car is still doing the same thing now know tht it was not bad in the first place
thank u so much for being so patient with this continous problem
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Saturday, April 25th, 2009 AT 10:53 PM

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