I am going to guess you have the domestic model. That will have three wires on the alternator to take voltage readings. So we do not overlook anything, start out by measuring the battery's voltage with the engine off. You should find 12.6 volts. If it is closer to 12.2 volts, the battery is run down and should be recharged at a slow rate for an hour or two. If you should find it around 11 volts or less, it has a shorted cell and must be replaced.
Once the engine is running, measure the battery's voltage again and tell me what you find. Go to the large output stud on the back of the alternator and measure the voltage there. It must be exactly the same as what you found at the battery, well, within a tenth or two of a volt.
Next, there is two small wires plugged in on the back. You will need to back-probe through the connector to take those readings because they are only valid when they are plugged in and the engine is running. Tell me what you find on those two.
If you have trouble getting stable readings on the smaller wires, it is because Chrysler changed the layout of the circuit a few years earlier. Operation is the same, but all the voltages we had memorized for the last forty years are different. If your voltmeter's display is bouncing around too much to read, use a test light instead. All we need to know is the relative brightness. Poke it across the battery and you will see what full brightness looks like. Compare that to its brightness on the two smaller wires. Again, these readings must be taken with the engine running.
Saturday, August 1st, 2020 AT 11:11 AM