I have spongy brakes?

Tiny
WARREN1814
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD E-SERIES VAN
  • 4.2L
  • V6
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 177,100 MILES
Hello Guys its just me Warren again. Here is the problem. I have spongy brakes. And the ABS has been disable like me and someone on here talk about doing etc. So I have been driving my van like that now for half a year with no problem until yesterday (driving my van without ABS, you know padding my breaks like we used to before ABS came around etc). I ran through a puddle of water. Really quick and it started acting up every since. I just had my repair guy look at my van and the brake master cylinder has been replaced. And the repair guy said he didn't see any leaks under the van far as brake lines go. And my brake pads and shoes where replaced around 3 or 4 years ago. So do you have any idea why I still have spongy brakes? I even suggest could it be the brake booster and they said no. If it was the brake booster they said my van would stall and start running funny etc. Ok guys, any idea what's wrong? Could it be the brake calibers? Just asking. The ABS light still stays on from me pulling that fuse out to disable it too. It stayed on before I pulled it out too but I couldn't ever find a ABS brake control module either.
Wednesday, September 24th, 2025 AT 3:41 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
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Hi Warren,

This is what I would do, take 3 pairs of vise grips, using a shop towel of the brake flex lines gently close of the flex hoses to all wheel. This will isolate the master from the wheels which will tell us which part of the system is causing the issue. Is the ABS module still installed? if so you can have air in the system, please go over this guide to help you.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

Please go over this guide and get back to us.
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Thursday, September 25th, 2025 AT 10:35 AM
Tiny
WARREN1814
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Hello there Ken, How are you? I am ok. And let me first start off by saying thank you for sending that guide. That is always helpful. But I found out today that my back brakes wear completely broken. My brake shoe self-adjuster was broken completely apart and the parts to that was inside of the brake drum and it put a deep cut type groove in the brake drum. And it messed up the brake shoes too. The repair guy said when ever I would hit my brakes I basically had none in the back. He also said it was a good thing my front disc brakes where working is because he said I would have ran into something if it wasn't for those. He also said that it looks like my back brakes have been in this shape for some time too. The last time I replace all of my brakes pads and shoes was 4 yrs ago. So now I have to buy so more brake drums and shoes on both sides. The price of the repair was $480.00. But the brakes no long go to the floor and he did state that I need to get my new brake shoes asap or my van will get back in this shape once again. And to answer your question is the ABS module is still install. Yes it is. It better be, I sure didn't ask him to remove it. Another thing now too is. My check engine light wasn't on before but now it is etc. That's why I hate leaving repair places is because you don't know what they are doing to your vehicle while your gone etc. My ride that helped me get back and to the garage hates waiting but its worth sticking around to watch if they let you etc.
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Thursday, September 25th, 2025 AT 2:53 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, anytime you have brake issues check the pads and shoes. I assumed you did that already, my bad. Glad you got it fixed. The vise grip trick would have shown the problem was in the wheels btw.
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Friday, September 26th, 2025 AT 9:15 AM
Tiny
WARREN1814
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I bet it would have. To bad I can't get to it to see (wheelchair etc). :-( I am sure glad you guys have this website. You just don't know how happy I am to see it up and running and always sorry for posting a new post on this old subject I notice you moved my message to my other post. I tried doing so but I couldn't find it. :-) With him messing with the brakes etc would that make the check engine light come on again? Because it sure wasn't on before they repaired it. Oh by the way, when it comes to using car / truck scanners is it best to just start the vehicle and scan for codes or just turn the key on and not start it and then look for codes? I ask my friend that and he said its best not to start the car / truck all the way. I disagree. Who's right here? If I am wrong then I am wrong I just want to do it properly etc lol
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Friday, September 26th, 2025 AT 10:45 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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I hear ya, if the brake problem is fixed please start a new thread for the check engine light, post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new
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Friday, September 26th, 2025 AT 6:23 PM
Tiny
WARREN1814
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Ok. I will. And thank you for your help on the brake problem. :-)
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Friday, September 26th, 2025 AT 9:57 PM
Tiny
WARREN1814
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But I do have one more brake question. I read where someone wrote that to test your brake booster all you have to do is get in your vehicle etc. Turn on the vehicle and then press your brake and then turn off your vehicle and if you can hold your brake down for at least 30 secs that means your brake booster is good. Is this true? Because I tried it and my brakes pedal starting to push against me almost immediately. Then I asked a friend of mine and he said that I was doing the process in reverse. Then he said this is the way to do it. With the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times. This depletes any residual vacuum in the booster. The brake pedal should get harder with each pump.
Hold the brake pedal down (press firmly) and then start the engine. If the brake booster is working correctly, the pedal should sink slightly as the engine starts.
This is because the engine creates vacuum that assists the booster, reducing pedal effort. Is that way the right way? Have you heard of this process before? This is the first time I read about it and heard about it.
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Sunday, September 28th, 2025 AT 10:27 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yes, the second scenario is the correct test, also, with the engine off you can remove the vacuum check valve from the booster and hear vacuum escaping, this means the booster can hold vacuum.
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Monday, September 29th, 2025 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
WARREN1814
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Ok cool. I did the second test I was telling you about and when I turned on the van the brake pedal sink slightly too. I was happy to see that but I will try your test too. You are talking about the plug on the firewall that is black and has a white dot in the middle of it correct? And here is something I did once I got home in driving up my driveway. I gave my van kinda alot of gas and then press the brake pedal kinda hard this time and then my van started to run kinda rough. Any idea what they could be? I have brake sure enough but that's what happened after I did that.
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Monday, September 29th, 2025 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I think you should start a new thread for this problem because it is different and the last problem is fixed. Please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken
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Monday, September 29th, 2025 AT 4:35 PM
Tiny
WARREN1814
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Ok. Here I go. :-) And here are the codes for the brakes C1230 read center wheel speed sensor input circuit fault & C1229 rear wheel speed sensor inconsistent It had 3 other codes but I can't seem to find them on my scanner.
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Monday, September 29th, 2025 AT 4:39 PM
Tiny
WARREN1814
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I have brakes but the follow error codes have shown up now. I thought you might wanted to see the error codes. Also I created a new CEL thread but when I try and click on it it says error and won't pull up. This is the first time I have ever seen this many error codes for brakes
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Tuesday, September 30th, 2025 AT 8:16 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Sorry, we only handle one problem per thread, please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken
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Wednesday, October 1st, 2025 AT 9:21 AM
Tiny
WARREN1814
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Not a problem I created a new thread. :-) Cheers
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Wednesday, October 1st, 2025 AT 10:26 AM

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