1979 Other BMW Models BMW 633csi Cold Running Issue

Sorry for the delayed response.

Well, I installed an air flow meter from my 630csi parts car, and I believe it didn't change this issue (but I changed it in at the end of summerl, so as you can imagine I didn't have much of a cold running issue at the time)
I might try switching to the old one again to make sure switching them didn't CAUSE the issue.

Another thing I haven't mentioned is that the oil level rises the more I drive it and seems to smell like gas. I figure this is just because gas leaks by when it runs insanely rich at cold startup. I think the rings aren't too bad because the compression was high (120 psi or so when specs say around 114).

I'll let you know if the AFM changes anything.

I had what sounds like a similar problem in my 6. It turned out to be a cracked hose from the air box to the AFM. It was on the bottom and we couldn't find it. It rotted from age I guess.
I am fairly certain that was the problem. The only other prob. I had was with my Cat. Knock on wood.

My car has a cold air intake installed. But I seem to remember there is a slight crack where it connects to the air flow meter. Wouldn't this only mean that a slight bit of unfiltered air could get in the engine, but it wouldn't affect driveability? Are you sure that's what was wrong with yours?

By now, I've finished the EGR/Reactor removal and I've tried both of my AFMs in the car, but it still has this cold running issue.

Onward march!
I appreciate all the help I can get

Also, I read this on the internet.

"Initial Driveability
Model:
1982 633CSi/733I, 1983 533i/633CSi/733i, 1984 533i/633CSi/733i
Complaint:
If the engine is cold or warm, the vehicle will emit a hesitation or have poor throttle response during the first few minutes of starting. This is due to the internal re-programming of the Motronic Control Unit was not able to compensate for the elimination of the external 560 OHM resistor.
Remedy:
Install an external resistor in the NTC line."

I'm not sure which resistor they're talking about, but it sounds like a similar issue on a similar car.

Ok, well scratch that.
What should I do as a next step?

Also, is there a way that I can test for sure whether my AFM is working right, especially with regards to it's temperature sensor?

Hey. Still haven't figured this out.
Any ideas?

Their are other repairs that can be checked and eliminated in your quest to making this vehicle run efficiantly, In 1986 bmw came out with a campaibn to correct this problem and there were many repairs on this correction list ntc sensor resistor install, carbon blast on intake valves, vacuum pod in air box, carbon canister update and a few more, I made a lot of money that year because of this fix and it spands out to several bmw"s 318,733 so consult in your nearist bmw dealer because this info is free for piece of mind!

I ended up finding the problem with my car. Some water had leaked into the ecu and caused damage. I replaced it and it ran great after that.