Blower motor removal

Tiny
PAPA1955
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 102,000 MILES
I checked fuse replaced relay and resistor blower still doesn't work. Going to replace blower. What is easiest and best way to remove blower on 2005 Chrysler Town and Country?
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Thursday, January 14th, 2016 AT 3:00 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
CATAFINA
  • MEMBER
Hello,

Here is a guide to show you kind of what you are in for with diagrams below to show you exactly what to do please go over both before you begin.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/blower-fan-motor-works-on-high-speed-only

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.

Cheers
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Thursday, January 14th, 2016 AT 3:47 PM
Tiny
PAPA1955
  • MEMBER
I have power to blower and ground so I know its the blower.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2016 AT 5:02 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
OK, do you have ground on the other wire. It can't work without both.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2016 AT 5:03 PM
Tiny
PAPA1955
  • MEMBER
Thanks, I didn't do that and replaced the blower motor everything works great. I love this site.
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Thursday, January 14th, 2016 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
DESJEANY
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 120,000 MILES
My AC blower quit working ( not blowing, but cold air lightly coming out of vents) and I was told to replace the resister. After replacing the resister the blower now runs, but only hot air is coming out. I assume the resister is not activating the condenser trap door to let the cold air in. Any suggestions would be great.
Thanks
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
The resister only regulates power to the blower motor. If you are not getting cool air, it sounds like the blend air door isn't actuating. When you were working on it, did you by accident disconnect any vacuum lines?
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
OVERSGE
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
2005 Chrysler Town and Country

How to replace a fron blower?
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BLUELIGHTNIN6
  • EXPERT
1. Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2. Remove the right quarter trim panel as follows:

A. Remove first rear seat. Remove the second rear seat, if equipped.

B. Remove the sliding door sill plate.

C. Remove the quarter trim bolster.

D. Remove the upper C-pillar trim and D-pillar trim panel.

E. Remove the first and second rear seat belt anchors.

F. Remove the screws securing the quarter trim to quarter panel from the bolster area.

G. Remove the screws securing the rear edge of the quarter trim to the support bracket.

H. Carefully disengage the hidden clips securing the front of the quarter trim to the quarter panel just rearward of the sliding door opening.

I. Disconnect the wiring harness connector from the accessory power outlet, if equipped.

J. On long wheelbase wagons only, remove the quarter trim from the quarter panel and pull second rear seat belt through access hole.

K. Pull first rear seat belt through the access hole.

L. Remove the quarter trim panel from the vehicle.

3. Remove the 5 screws mounting the A/C-heater blower motor housing to the rear HVAC unit (one mounting screw located on evaporator cover).
4. Twist the blower motor out of scroll housing.
5. Disconnect the blower motor wiring connector.
6. Remove the blower motor from vehicle.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
IAMUDYS
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
Air Conditioning problem
2003 Chrysler Town and Country 6 cyl Front Wheel Drive Automatic

Is there any way to remove the blower motor cover without removing the dash?
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RLARRYH
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 82,000 MILES
The fan control suddenly became stuck in "on" and "high". Attempting to turn power off, just turns off a/c and puts fan into high. I can still adjust temperature. I can still turn rear a/c on/off. Is this a problem that can be fixed or will I have to replace some electrical control? If I have to replace a control, is it a do-it-yourself project?
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING -
BLOWER MOTOR RELAY
The front blower motor relay is located in the Intelligent Power Module (IPM), which is in the engine compartment near the battery. See the fuse and relay layout map molded into the inner surface of the IPM cover for front blower motor relay identification and location. Remove the relay from the IPM to perform the following tests:
A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 + 5 ohms. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86. There should now be continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, use a DRBIII(R) scan tool to perform further diagnosis of the relay circuits. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.

Blower motor resistor
The blower motor resistor is connected to the vehicle electrical system through a dedicated take out and connector of the instrument panel wire harness. A second connector receptacle receives the pigtail wire connector from the blower motor. The blower motor resistor has multiple resistor wires, each of which will reduce the current flow through the blower motor to change the blower motor speed. The blower motor switch in the manual heater-A/C control directs the ground path for the blower motor through the correct resistor wire to obtain the selected speed. With the blower motor switch in the lowest speed position, the ground path for the motor is applied through all of the resistor wires. Each higher speed selected with the blower motor switch applies the blower motor ground path through fewer of the resistor wires, increasing the blower motor speed. When the blower motor switch is in the highest speed position, the blower motor resistor wires are bypassed and the blower motor receives a direct path to ground through the blower motor switch. The blower motor resistor may be diagnosed using conventional diagnostic tools and methods
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SMILINGFRENCHMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
Fan motor is stuck on high. Turning the nob has no effect. I am assuming the switch is bad. If so how does one replace the switch. Could there be another reason for this problem?
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
  • EXPERT
1-A relay in the de-energized position should have continuity between terminals 87A and 30, and no continuity between terminals 87 and 30. If OK, go to Step 2. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
2-Resistance between terminals 85 and 86 (electromagnet) should be 75 + 5 ohms. If OK, go to Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty relay.
3-Connect a battery to terminals 85 and 86. There should now be continuity between terminals 30 and 87, and no continuity between terminals 87A and 30. If OK, use a DRBIII(R) scan tool to perform further diagnosis of the relay circuits.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic1_703.jpg



http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/99387_Graphic2_322.jpg

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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CARPROS-ARCHIVES
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 96,000 MILES
The heater front heater fan keeps burning up every 4 to 6 months. The mechanic keeps changing it out. I want it fixed for good not keep changing it, I pay for the labor each time. Can you help?
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
Make sure none of the air intakes are restricted and no water is getting to the motor. You may have to resort to buying one from the dealer that wasn't made in China.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAUL4
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.8L
  • TURBO
  • 159,727 MILES
The blower for the heat quit working. How can I fix it myself?
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Do you have a multi meter to do some testing?
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+1
Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JOHNNY G.JR
  • MEMBER
Have you checked the fuse for that circuit?
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Did it work okay right up until it stopped? No strange noises or squealing?
Do you have the automatic temperature controls (left/right split) or manual?
If the manual controls did you have all fan speeds until it stopped?
Does the rear heat and blower still work?
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+5
Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:12 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAUL4
  • MEMBER
Steve W. The blower was working just fine then it quit working. I feel heat blowing out and you my back heat still works.
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Sunday, August 26th, 2018 AT 4:13 PM (Merged)

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