Blower motor relay location

Tiny
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  • 2007 MITSUBISHI ECLIPSE
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 109,000 MILES
Need to locate the blower motor relay location in the car listed above. The manual just says relay but does not specify which one.
Friday, July 10th, 2020 AT 11:59 AM

18 Replies

Tiny
HARRY P
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Hello! I'm attaching a couple of images that I just pulled from AllData. They should clarify things for you. Let me know if you need anything else.
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Friday, July 10th, 2020 AT 1:06 PM
Tiny
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Okay, perfect, thanks. The issue I am experiencing is that the blower motor stays on even when the key is off the ignition. This started couple of days ago when I added Freon to my car.
The A/C will work for approximately 10 minutes and then no more cold air. The only way to force the blower motor fan to stop is to either take the A/C fuse out and then put it back on (which makes the A/C work again) or turn the knob for the fan to the off position. However, the moment I put the knob back to the 1 or 2 etc, I can still feel the air come out. As such, this makes me think that it could be the blower relay maybe stuck? Any input on the matter is appreciated.
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Friday, July 10th, 2020 AT 1:51 PM
Tiny
HARRY P
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Honestly, it seems like you've got a good handle on it. I would also start with the relay. If that doesn't do it I'll have to pull up a wiring diagram to see if something else on the circuit could cause that. But definitely start with the relay. If it's the same relay as another circuit, I'd switch them around and see if the behavior changes any.

Let me know what you find and we'll go from there.
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Saturday, July 11th, 2020 AT 4:04 AM
Tiny
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Follow up:

I switched relays and the behavior is still the same. :(
The main difference is that the blower fan no longer stays on when I pull the key off the ignition which is good but I still have to take the 10a fuse out and put it back in so that the A/C clutch could engage.

I do hear a “click” when I pull the fuse out which tells me that there’s current or power somewhere still.

**Important : I make sure the car is off before I take the fuse out, lol.
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Saturday, July 25th, 2020 AT 7:18 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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There is an A/C ECU that sounds like it is bad. To be sure we can do a CAN scan which is the future of automotive repair you can get a CAN scanner from Amazon for about $50.00. here is a video to show you how:

https://youtu.be/InIlnsjOVFA

Also I have included the A/C and blower wiring so you can see how the system works. Check out the diagrams (below). Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.
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Monday, July 27th, 2020 AT 11:57 AM
Tiny
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Updates:
CAN Scan is on the way but in the mean time there are some interesting developments that took place.
I no longer experience the issue described above where the motor blower stays on and forcing me to pull the fuse. Instead, My A/C light started blinking and no longer gave cold air. Sure enough I measured the pressures and the low one was at below 0 again. While the high pressure was at 170.
This is screaming major leak as it’s been a month since I refilled the A/C (12oz bottle).
What is more alarming is that I tired to refill it again using the ACPro can like before (from Walmart) but it wouldn’t suck in the refrigerant. The A/C compressor clutch does engage.

Thoughts?

Thanks
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Wednesday, August 12th, 2020 AT 10:36 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

You have 0 psi on the low side and 170 on the high side? That doesn't make sense. For pressure to exist on the high side, something should show on the low.

Could you reconfirm that for me? Also, I will need to know the outside temperature when checked and if the compressor is engaging.

Here is a link you may find helpful to find the leak:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/air-conditioner-leak-detection

Let me know.
Joe

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Saturday, August 15th, 2020 AT 11:24 PM
Tiny
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Hey guys, sorry about the delayed response. There are other developments that took place, the heater is not working, the lights on the climate control don’t turn on. This was working before the above issues with the AC. The air comes out from one direction only(face) it doesn’t matter if I switch to feet or face and feet or just windshield. The fan speed does work as it should. I checked the fuses that are under the steering wheel (30a) not blown. I even replaced the blower motor resistor, same outcome, no heat.
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Saturday, October 17th, 2020 AT 11:09 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I need you to check the fuses under the hood. See that attached pics. Note that the 30 amp is a fusible link and not a traditional fuse. In addition to checking the fuse condition, make sure there is power to it as well as power out. Here is a link you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, October 17th, 2020 AT 10:33 PM
Tiny
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Included below is the fuse box. I seem to be misunderstanding which fuses to check I believe. The ones I circled are the ones I checked to see if blown, they are not. The yellow one I am not sure how to pull it off (if I have to) I will be testing power here soon but wanted to share this first. Please let me know if I’m off track.
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Sunday, October 18th, 2020 AT 11:36 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

You are correct. There are two fuses in the yellow unit. You can pull one at a time.

Let me know.
Joe
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Sunday, October 18th, 2020 AT 8:30 PM
Tiny
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Hi there. Okay, so I used a multimeter to test the fuses, they all read 0.00 ( had it set to 2000 for ohm). They I pulled them out and can confirm they are not blown.
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 8:38 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

If you were checking on ohms, that's for testing resistance on a circuit and not power. It should be set on DC voltage.

Take a look through this link for help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

Let me know if that is what was done.

Joe
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Thursday, October 22nd, 2020 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
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Hey Joe, so I tried setting it to DC reading and set it to 20V as well as 200mV but I don’t get any reading, except 0, same with when I have the car running and that’s for all the fuses, either I’m not doing it right or I’m missing a step. The article indicates to place both ends of the desired item to test and that’s what I did.
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Sunday, October 25th, 2020 AT 9:08 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

I need to rewind a bit. Are you checking for continuity or for power at the circuit? If continuity (the continuous flow of electrons through a conductor) the meter needs set on ohms. The symbol looks like an upside down horseshoe. If you are checking for voltage, then it sounds like you are on the right track. However, it's a 12v system, so 20 volts will likely show lower on the voltage.

If possible, upload a pic of exactly what you are doing and the ultimate goal so I can see what is happening.

Let me know.
Joe
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Monday, October 26th, 2020 AT 6:06 PM
Tiny
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Issue fixed!

Turns out that the cables behind the climate control dash were unplugged. I do not know how this could have happened but the last time any work was done on the car was to change the e-brake cable. I can’t see how this could lead to it but I told the person who worked on it last.

Thank you for all of your help.
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 10:19 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
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Hi,

Chances are it was bumped. Regardless, I'm glad to hear it's fixed and you have heat for winter.

Take care and please feel free to let us know if you have questions in the future.

Take care,
Joe
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Monday, November 2nd, 2020 AT 6:03 PM

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