Axle snap ring installation

Tiny
ELDONCOOPER62
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  • 1993 NISSAN SENTRA
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Just replaced both axles. The drivers side doesn't want to go back in and leaks now.
Internal inspection of transmission shows nothing. To my eye the snap rings on old axle and purchased (after market) axle stick out of the slot they are in and are not completely round. Purchased two snap rings directly from Nissan. They are perfectly round, but it is obvious that they will be sticking out. What should they be? And any tips for successful reinstall.
Wednesday, March 11th, 2020 AT 12:27 PM

25 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
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I don't think this snap ring is your issue. I know what you are talking about that it doesn't seem to fit perfectly. However, this is common. Does the axle actually go in the transmission/differential and seat? When you had it installed, did the axle make noise or was it just leaking?

When you replaced the axles, did you replace the seals as well?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/rear-axle-seal-replacement
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2020 AT 3:58 PM
Tiny
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Yes, it did seat and appeared to in. I had to use a CV axle puller to get it out.
No the axle made no noise. It drove fine, just emptied all fluid.
I did replace the seals.
Just as back ground, just replaced control arms with new ball joints, outer tie rod, sway bar links and axles on both sides. Passenger side went back fine.
I have it up in the air on stands for both sides.
I'm going to reinstall and put some fluid in and check for exactly where the leak is from.
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2020 AT 4:19 PM
Tiny
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Okay. That is exactly what I was going to suggest if you didn't know where the leak was from. Just clean it off and if you can, you should try to just run it on the lift or jack stands if that is what you are using. If it is leaking that bad, I don't think you would need to go far. Just some movement with the gears and axles and you should be able to find it.

Let me know what you find because I am curious what this would be if not the axle seal.
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Wednesday, March 11th, 2020 AT 7:44 PM
Tiny
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Okay, here's what I know:

I got the new axle in with new seal and new snap ring.
There was a small leak that stopped.
I wrote that off to the leftover from the last leak.
Up on jack stands I let in run in reverse and then forward.
Also cycled through all of the gears.
The drivers side just doesn't look to be in all the way.
One picture is from drivers side, the other pass side.
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Friday, March 13th, 2020 AT 3:49 AM
Tiny
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Upon further testing, it still leaks with clear fluid path from drivers side transmission where drive axle goes in.
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Friday, March 13th, 2020 AT 9:29 AM
Tiny
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I agree with you. That doesn't look fully seated. However, the snap ring would not cause what you are seeing. The fact that it goes this far in and doesn't make noise tells me that it is either not fully seated or the spline shaft is too long.

Clearly I won't think they built it wrong even though it is possible, I would think it is not fully seated. When installing these you should hear a definite clunk and feel the axle bottom out when the axle fully seats. If you are hearing that clunk and it still sticks out then I suspect the axle is the issue.

Can you get the part number and supplier for that axle and send it over?
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Friday, March 13th, 2020 AT 4:53 PM
Tiny
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I never heard or felt a clunk.
I'm going to try something tomorrow.
I'll let you know how it goes.

SURTRACK/TRAKMOTIVE NI8021
From Rockauto
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Friday, March 13th, 2020 AT 5:09 PM
Tiny
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Okay. They can be difficult. When you get the splines lined up and get it started, just hold the shaft on the outboard side of the CV joint and use the axle itself to help get it in by pulling out and pushing in almost like an little slide hammer.

Not sure that make sense but clearly we need to do whatever we can to get that clunk.

Keep me posted. Thanks
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Friday, March 13th, 2020 AT 5:35 PM
Tiny
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I did some research and I think that I figured it out.
Rockauto sold me a drive axle that is meant for the manual transmission model.
It is 3/16 too long so the spline is going in and seating, but there is excess outside.
I've got the correct axle on the way and will give a final update after install.
Thanks
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Saturday, March 14th, 2020 AT 6:53 AM
Tiny
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That makes much more sense then they built it wrong but clearly still an issue along those lines. That totally sounds like you got it so I look forward to hearing it is all buttoned up. Thanks
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Saturday, March 14th, 2020 AT 6:43 PM
Tiny
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Okay.
I got the replacement axle in and a new seal.
I watched a couple of you-tube videos and was told to install the seal flush with the exterior surface of the transmission where the axle goes in.
Did that. Installed the axle, felt the seat occur.
Visually inspected: the axle pushed the seal all the way into the opening for the axle thereby allowing it to leak,
took the axle back out, pulled the seal and tried to put it on the axle.
The way that I had the seal in it would never go up onto the sealing service.
See figure 1.
But if I turn the seal around, Figure 2, it goes easily over the sealing surface.
Which way should it be?
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 7:50 AM
Tiny
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I just watched a couple more YouTube videos and it apparently shows that figure 1 from my last post is correct.
So I guess the question is, how do I prevent the seal from being pushed farther in?
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 8:17 AM
Tiny
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Can you get a picture of the seal you have. The lip of the seal normally faces in so as you slide the shaft in it doesn't roll. So figure 2 would be correct. However, this being an older vehicle that was different back then.

Here is the process from the manual which I think sheds some light on your question. There is a tool that protects the seal as you put the axle in. Again, this is an older vehicle so this was common back then. They have made design improvements that render this not needed.

Let me see both sides of the seal and I am sure we can figure this out.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
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I bought the seals from Amazon using a nissan part number that I looked up on their part breakdown database Part Number: 38342-8E000. But I don't know how to check and see if it was superseded thru the years.
Here's the requested Pics.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 8:59 AM
Tiny
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I am going to do some more research but just looking at this seal, I attached the direction that I would install this. Basically the rubber seal part going into the transmission. See the picture. I am going to see if I can find something more detailed and send it over to you.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 9:09 AM
Tiny
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Okay.
I saw one guy in a video describe that, but the seal that I took out (it was leaking)
was the opposite.
I have to wait on a new seal to come in now, so no rush.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 9:13 AM
Tiny
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Just so I am clear, the seal you took out originally (not the one you put in) was in the other way but was leaking? If that is the case, I would think whoever put that in, put in it backwards.

I will find something and send it over to confirm this.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 9:37 AM
Tiny
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That is my thinking as well.
I'm a retired engineer by profession and my gut tells me that you are correct.
And the fact that the seal fits so perfectly onto the sealing surface clinches it.
One thing to note, the stuff that I'm seeing in the videos may be different manufacturer of seals where the exterior surface of the seal is not gold colored like mine.
I'll wait and see if you find some confirmation.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 9:46 AM
Tiny
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This is on a 1998 but shows how it can be confusing. This seal looks as though the lip of the seal is facing out. The lip is not the important part, it is exactly as you stated, it is the matting surface that matters.

I would suggest trusting yourself with your background and install it the way it makes sense.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 10:41 AM
Tiny
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Sounds good.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Its going to take to Wednesday to get a new seal with all this mess going on.
Thanks for your help and advice.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 11:20 AM

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