99 Cirrus-97000 miles: Oil light comes on

Tiny
PADOC
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  • 2012 ALL OTHER MAKES ALL OTHER MODELS
I purchased this vehicle about 6 months ago. Shortly after that I noticed the oil light coming on every time I pressed the brake. Few day after an oil change, the light still came on. I took it to a dealer, they ran a diagnostic: the oil switch was the verdict. I had it changed, but the light came back on within 15 minutes of driving. I took it back and they said the engine is loosing pressure and that the engine had a lot of build up and sludge. My questions are: is that an expensive problem to fix? Is there something I can try before looking to replace motor? I would approach this issue? Thanks in advance!
Saturday, January 6th, 2007 AT 12:46 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
MATHIASO
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If they find that the oil presure is indeed low, the next step is to pinpoint the cause of the low pressure. Low oil pressure can cause severe damage to an engine. In fact if the oil pressure is very low, you may often hear knocking or tapping noises in the engine.
Low oil pressure can be caused by any number of mechanical problems in the engine and I can't tell you right away how much it will be to fix it when the cause is not none.
The most common cause is worn bearing insert.
It could be just a worn oil pump, a leak in the oil pick up tube.
I have a question.
How is the oil level in your vehicle?
Do you hear knocking or tapping noise when driving your vehicle?
How did they come to a conclusion of build up and sludge?
Did they clear the code after replacing the oil switch?

Sorry to answer questions with questions.?
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Saturday, January 6th, 2007 AT 3:10 PM
Tiny
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Hey thanks for your prompt response.

The car is running good, no knocking noises or unusual sounds.

Originally, there was a oil switch failure/may be a leak. But that was taken care of. I guess current problem is a secondary one. In other words there are no leaks presently

The feedback I received from the second diagnostic was that he hooked a manual pressure gauge to the engine and everything seemed fine. But after leaving running for a while that's when he notice the loss of pressure. The mechanic mentioned the sluge and build up, and it is obvious. I think he may be associating they problem to the sluge.

I will get more info from him on monday.
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Saturday, January 6th, 2007 AT 3:37 PM
Tiny
STRATUS98
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If you have the 2.4 liter engine you should be carefull the rod bearing is a weak point in those engines. I have eliminated sludge with increasing oil change intervals, if that is the problem. But you said when you first started it the oil pressure was good and after it ran for a while it went down. To me that sounds like a worn bearing insert like mathiaso has stated
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Saturday, January 6th, 2007 AT 5:07 PM
Tiny
PADOC
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Thanks again for the inputs. Please keep them coming.

Monday I will know more.
But one question I have is can sluge cause a loss of oil pressure?
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Saturday, January 6th, 2007 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
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Certainly could. I "think" there is a hot spot in those motors that create a sludge like condition because of an engineering oversight. This starts to crate a restriction that impedes flow.
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Saturday, January 6th, 2007 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
PADOC
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Then, it is logical or would you advise exploring a solution to the sluge first? If so, how would you do that?
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Saturday, January 6th, 2007 AT 7:42 PM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
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:)
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Saturday, January 6th, 2007 AT 8:23 PM
Tiny
PADOC
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Hey gentlemen,

I got the car back; the mechanic seems to be suggesting that the problem is related to sludge. But he doesn't offer any type service that would deal with that type of problem, so his recommendations are somewhat ambiguous. He talks about getting another engine.

I have a buddy of mine who is a certified mechanic; he is thinking along the same line as you guys. He talks about oil change using transmission fluid for 20 minutes, then drain it. I also been searching the internet, and I came accross a product by Amsoil for flushing engine.

Am I on the right track?

Again, thanks for your time.
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Tuesday, January 9th, 2007 AT 5:47 PM
Tiny
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Be so ever careful doing that. The big worry that I see is that it loosens up everything and drops or plugs up ports and the pick up screen for the pump. I wouldn't do that myself.
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Tuesday, January 9th, 2007 AT 7:17 PM
Tiny
STRATUS98
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Exactly what he said seafoam is another alternative but dangerous, may end up costing you more.
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Tuesday, January 9th, 2007 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
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Stratus98-

What have you run into?

Any particular vehicles or conditions?

I've never heard of a problem not experienced any, (but of course that doesn't mean everything.)
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Wednesday, January 10th, 2007 AT 4:59 AM
Tiny
DMANLEMMAN
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I too have a 99 chrysler with an oil light problem, however, my oi light only comes on when the car is warmed up and at idle. When going down the highway it does not come on. Is that why they changed the switch out on your car?
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Saturday, January 20th, 2007 AT 6:52 PM
Tiny
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I changed my switch because it failed and leaked. But that wasn't the only problem; sludge was a major problem. I followed directions from several sources, including this site, and so far things are looking a bit better.
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Monday, January 22nd, 2007 AT 7:24 AM

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