1996 Acura TL 1996 2.5TL wont start

Tiny
AJMARLOW
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 ACURA TL
1996 Acura TL Front Wheel Drive Automatic 157000 miles

1996 Acura 2.5TL wont start. Starter doesn't turn over at all, just one loud click when you turn key. Battery is fine (cd, lights, etc), checked it with Volt Meter. Where is the starter? Im having much trouble locating it.
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Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 4:55 PM

19 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Can't help with it's location, but it sounds like the solenoid contacts are worn. Usually the problem is intermittent for a long time, so it should crank if you cycle the ignition switch from "run" to "crank" multiple times.

To find a hiding starter, follow the positive battery cable to it.

Caradiodoc
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Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
AJMARLOW
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What do you mean by solenoid contacts. Going from run to crank cycle doesnt work it wont start. Found the starter though tucked up under the intake manifold like everyone said. Whats next? Tapping on it and trying to crank was not sucessful
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Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 5:26 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Solenoid contacts are the high current switch contacts built into the starter motor. If they are causing the problem, you will feel the starter engage if you touch it while a helper turns the ignition switch to "crank". This is a real common problem with Nippendenso starters used on Toyotas, Nissans, and Chryslers, so I'm wondering if they're used on Hondas too.

Try to figure out exactly what it is you're hearing.

Caradiodoc
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Friday, February 26th, 2010 AT 7:27 PM
Tiny
AJMARLOW
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The starter is a Mitsuba. Cant they be rebuilt? Should my next move be to remove the starter and go have it bench tested somewhere?
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Sunday, February 28th, 2010 AT 11:35 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
This is more common in the Nippendenso starters, but it can happen to any starter. You can try looking for parts at the Honda dealer, but often they will only offer rebuilt starters. If you're in or near a good size city, there will likely be a rebuilder who can sell you replacement parts. I get mine from a place callled TJ Rebuilders in Schofield, WI. I'm pretty sure they have a web site.

Before tearing into it, let's be sure that's what youre hearing. While a helper turns the ignition switch to "crank", measure the voltage on the two wires on the starter. Both must have full battery voltage. If they do, it's the solenoid contacts or the motor itself. The contacts will be the cause 99 percent of the time.

Caradiodoc
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Sunday, February 28th, 2010 AT 12:19 PM
Tiny
LEE4LIFE
  • MEMBER
I have a acura 2.5 1996. I swaped a new motor in my tl and it wont seem to crank or start at all. The starter, battery, alternator, spark plug wires are good. It is a electrical problem and I cant find out what it is.
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010 AT 1:33 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Elaborate on the symptoms and observations. Does the starter relay or solenoid click? Do the head lights stay bright? What have you checked so far?

Caradiodoc
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010 AT 1:58 AM
Tiny
LEE4LIFE
  • MEMBER
Its not my also my wire harness either. When I turn the key switch on all I hear is the fuel pump come on but the car doesnt crank at all.
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010 AT 1:59 AM
Tiny
LEE4LIFE
  • MEMBER
The starter relay or solenoid doesnt click and the head lights are blight. When I turn on the key switch all I hear is the fuel pump run, radiator fan turns on and radio also 2.
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010 AT 2:16 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Many of these cars don't use a separate starter relay. If yours does, unplug it and use a test light to measure the voltage on the four terminals. One should have 12 volts all the time and one should have 12 volts when you turn the ignition switch to "crank".

For the two remaining terminals, ground the test light clip lead to the POSITIVE battery post, then probe them. The light should light up on both of them indicating a good ground. Look for one of those four wires that doesn't give the correct result.

If your car doesn't use a starter relay, test right on the small terminal on the starter while a helper turns the ignition switch to "crank". If no voltage appears, suspect a problem with the neutral safety switch, (automatic transmission), or clutch switch, (manual transmission). Be sure the switch is not unplugged.

Caradiodoc
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Wednesday, December 15th, 2010 AT 4:19 AM
Tiny
LEE4LIFE
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Where is the neutral safety switch on the automatic transmission
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Monday, December 20th, 2010 AT 10:28 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
This is amazing! Apparently this is some top secret information that everyone refuses to answer. I've been searching the web for over an hour and I've found pictures of the part but no information. By the looks of it, it appears it could go on the transmission over the selector shaft or it might mount on the shift lever in the center console. I posted a question on a few other forums, and I'll get back to you if I get a reply.

I think I'm including a photo of the switch. Haven't tried this before. Judging from the plated bracket on the cable, I have a feeling you're going to find this guy by the selector shaft on the transmission.

Caradiodoc
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Tuesday, December 21st, 2010 AT 3:41 AM
Tiny
LEE4LIFE
  • MEMBER
Your info on your website has give me some accurate info thanks. I actually hear a clicking noise when I turn on the keyswitch. I think it might be my neutral safety switch becuase when I swaped out my engine I tryyed to force out the neutral safety switch by yanking the wires. That might of messed up the wires. I also bought a keyless remote for my stock alarm 2 see if that maybe the issue that keeps my car from starting.
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Tuesday, December 21st, 2010 AT 5:14 AM
Tiny
LEE4LIFE
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Is the neutral safety switch for the acura 2.5 1996 the same as the 3.2 tl 1996
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Thursday, December 23rd, 2010 AT 1:19 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Apparently not. Part numbers and photos are quite different.

Caradiodoc
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Sunday, December 26th, 2010 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
LEE4LIFE
  • MEMBER
I tried everything still my car doesnt seem to crank. I replaced the neutral safety switch I got from a 93 vigor, I found out that that wasnt the problem, my neutral switch is still good, when I put my car to neutral I see the neutral light on my cluster but I dont see park or reverse when I set it as that. I tried to test my starter and there seems to be no electricity involved that would start up the starter. I'am guessing that it might be my anti lock security thats not making my starter to crank, I cant find my security module. I need help, all I did was swapped in a new engine in my 2.5 tl and it wont seem to start. Did I reset a electrical part. Is there a ground wire somewhere on the engine that I forget to put in.
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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 12:31 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
OK, let's go back to the basics. There are two wires on the starter. The biggest one goes straight back to the battery's positive post. Use a test light with the clip lead on a clean, paint-free surface on the engine, then put the probe on the large starter terminal. The test light should light up all the time.

Use a screwdriver blade, the test light probe, or a piece of wire to temporarily connect the smaller wire on the starter to the big cable. Be sure the transmission is in park because that jumper should make the starter work. If it cranks, we will know the high-current circuit is working. That includes the battery cables

caradiodoc
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Friday, December 31st, 2010 AT 12:58 AM
Tiny
LEE4LIFE
  • MEMBER
There isnt electricity thats flowing through my starter. Battery n everythings good I dont know about the wire harness though. On the battery I connect the positive to the starter and grounded the starter striaght to the negative, and connected the wire that is suppose to be connected to the s terminal to it, and still doesnt start. I have a 1996 acura tl 2.5, swap a new engine and doesnt crank after that.
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 12:52 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Let's be sure you're jumping the starter correctly. Here's a diagram I drew for this purpose. If you're doing this with the starter still bolted to the engine, all you need is the blue jumper wire. If the starter is on the workbench, connect the negative jumper cable between the starter case and the negative post of the battery, and the red jumper cable between the battery positive post and the battery terminal on the starter. (The battery terminal is next to the small solenoid terminal. Do not use the terminal that has the fat, usually braided cable going into the motor housing).

Connect a clip lead or other jumper wire to the solenoid terminal. Hold onto the starter if it is off the engine, then touch the jumper wire to the battery terminal. If the starter spins, it is working properly. If the drive gear pops out but the motor doesn't spin, the solenoid contacts are worn and must be replaced. If nothing happens but there is a small spark when you touch the jumper wire, one of the two solenoid coils is defective or the drive gear's shaft is rusted and the gear is sticking. If there is no spark, the solenoid coil is defective.

Caradiodoc
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Thursday, January 6th, 2011 AT 8:18 AM

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