Starting, stalling and not starting issues

Tiny
NEXT_CEO
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 ACURA RL
My car has been having intermittent stalling issues over the last year. When I slowed down and came to a stop it stalled on me a few times. It also stalled a few times while the engine was simply idling. The door lights (all fuses are good) stopped working (even when doors are open) although although all dash lights work just fine. Just recently, I got into my car and it completely refused to start. Engine cranks but will not start. I checked everything I can possibly think of and discovered that the engine gets no fuel. There is a spark but no fuel coming to the engine. The Fuel pump connection has many wires, and two or three or three of the pins showed 4.77v running through them (I am not sure if they are parallel). Old cars had fuel pumps that had one pin and if it was around 11 to 12 volts it was good, but this car is a bit confusing especially if you do not have a schematic. In other words I am not even sure if the fuel pump is receiving enough voltage. I have heard if ignition switch fails the dash lights will not work but mines still work. What else can control the fuel pump? I am not sure if this is related but while driving the doors would lock and unlock for no reason. Can it be a security system malfunction? The car has 50,000 and it is driving me nuts. Only if I was not a broke college student.
Wednesday, May 5th, 2010 AT 2:44 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
Hi next_ceo,

The fuel pump circuit is controlled by the PGM-FI main relay.

Remove PGM-FI main relay located under left side of instrument panel. Connect battery voltage to relayconnector "B" terminal No. 3 (Blue/Red wire). Connect connector "B" terminal No. 2 (Yellow/Green wire) to ground. See Fig. 5 .

2. Test for continuity between relay connector "B" terminal No. 5 (Red/White wire) and connector "A" terminal No. 2 (Yellow wire). If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, replace relay.

3. Connect battery voltage to relay connector "A" terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire). Connect connector "B" terminal No. 7 (Black wire) to ground. Test for continuity between relay connector "A" terminals No. 1 and 3 (both Yellow/Black wires). If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, replace relay and retest.

4. Connect battery voltage to relay connector "A" terminal No. 1 (Yellow/Black wire). Connect connector "B" terminal No. 2 (Yellow/Green wire) to ground. Test for continuity between relay connector "B" terminal No. 5 (Red/White wire) and connector "A" terminal No. 2 (Yellow wire). If continuity exists, relay is okay. If continuity does not exist, replace relay.

This is an intermittent problem so the test above might work correctly. Check for crackes on the soldered joints and if any found, try resoldering them.


https://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/192750_PGMFIConnector02RL_1.jpg

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Friday, May 7th, 2010 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
NEXT_CEO
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
KHLow2008, thank you for your time and generosity. I was able to fix my car yesterday but thanks anyway. It actually was the main relay so I took it apart and used a magnifying glass to see a small crack in the soldering. I re-soldered it and it runs just fine. I searched everywhere online and it seems like I am the only RL owner that had a main relay issue, it also seems like it is a common problem on CL, TL and some Honda's although not RL's.
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Friday, May 7th, 2010 AT 6:32 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
You are welcome and glad that you have fixed the problem.

The relay tends to fail for earlier models but not those of the later models. From those that I have seen, mostly it is a manufacturing deficiency.

The solders were not strong enough causing them to crack. From information received, the explanation was that those relays that had problem were manufactured in winter where the weather causes the solder to be weakened during assembly.
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Saturday, May 8th, 2010 AT 8:32 AM
Tiny
ADAM HARTWICK
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
  • 2002 ACURA RL
Cranks but will not turn over. There is fuel pressure but no spark going to the spark plugs. There is power going to the coil.
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Thursday, March 9th, 2017 AT 4:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
It this a distributor, DIS or COP ignition system?
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Thursday, March 9th, 2017 AT 4:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ADAM HARTWICK
  • MEMBER
  • 11 POSTS
It has a ignition timing module.
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Thursday, March 9th, 2017 AT 4:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BRENDAG
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 ACURA RL
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 93,000 MILES
Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic 93,000 miles

I know the battery in the car is low, and the other night my son kept the radio on in the car for twenty minutes while I was in the store. When I tried to start the car it really did not want to turn over like the battery was dead. I was able to get the car started and later that night we put a battery charger on over night. The next morning the car still was having a hard time starting. It runs fine once the car is started, and the battery light is not coming on on the dash board, Could this be just a bad battery or does it sound like an electrical problem with the starter?
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Thursday, March 9th, 2017 AT 4:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MECHANIC
  • 75,992 POSTS
Get the battery load tested-if it checks out makes sure it is cleaned/tightened properly. Probable causes could be a short in the electrical system eating up the battery/ignition switch and starter itself.
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Thursday, March 9th, 2017 AT 4:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DARYL
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 ACURA RL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Cranks but will not start. What could be the problem?
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Thursday, March 9th, 2017 AT 4:20 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
  • 41,814 POSTS
It could be anything from fuel to ignition problem. The following link should be helpful.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

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Thursday, March 9th, 2017 AT 4:20 PM (Merged)

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