My 02 RL has been having intermittent stalling issues over the last year. When I slowed down and came to a stop it stalled on me a few times. It also stalled a few times while the engine was simply idling. The door lights (all fuses are good) stopped working (even when doors are open) although although all dash lights work just fine. Just recently, I got into my car and it completely refused to start. Engine cranks but won't start. I checked everything I can possibly think of and discovered that the engine gets no fuel. There is a spark but no fuel coming to the engine. The Fuel pump connection has many wires, and 2 or 3 or three of the pins showed 4.77v running through them(i am not sure if they are parallel). Old cars had fuel pumps that had 1 pin and if it was around 11-12v it was good, but this car is a bit confusing especially if you don't have a schematic. In other words I am not even sure if the fuel pump is receiving enough voltage. I have heard if ignition switch fails the dash lights won't work but mines still work. What else can control the fuel pump? I am not sure if this is related but while driving the doors would lock and unlock for no reason. Can it be a security system malfunction? The car has 50K and its driving me nuts. Only if I wasn't a broke college student.
The fuel pump circuit is controlled by the PGM-FI main relay.
Remove PGM-FI main relay located under left side of instrument panel. Connect battery voltage to relayconnector "B" terminal No. 3 (Blue/Red wire). Connect connector "B" terminal No. 2 (Yellow/Green wire) to ground. See Fig. 5 .
2. Test for continuity between relay connector "B" terminal No. 5 (Red/White wire) and connector "A" terminal No. 2 (Yellow wire). If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, replace relay.
3. Connect battery voltage to relay connector "A" terminal No. 4 (Black/Yellow wire). Connect connector "B" terminal No. 7 (Black wire) to ground. Test for continuity between relay connector "A" terminals No. 1 and 3 (both Yellow/Black wires). If continuity exists, go to next step. If continuity does not exist, replace relay and retest.
4. Connect battery voltage to relay connector "A" terminal No. 1 (Yellow/Black wire). Connect connector "B" terminal No. 2 (Yellow/Green wire) to ground. Test for continuity between relay connector "B" terminal No. 5 (Red/White wire) and connector "A" terminal No. 2 (Yellow wire). If continuity exists, relay is okay. If continuity does not exist, replace relay.
This is an intermittent problem so the test above might work correctly. Check for crackes on the soldered joints and if any found, try resoldering them.
May, 7, 2010 AT 6:32 PM
KHLow2008, thank you for your time and generosity. I was able to fix my car yesterday but thanks anyway. It actually was the main relay so I took it apart and used a magnifying glass to see a small crack in the soldering. I re-soldered it and it runs just fine. I searched everywhere online and it seems like I am the only RL owner that had a main relay issue, it also seems like it is a common problem on CL, TL and some Honda's although not RL's.
May, 8, 2010 AT 8:32 AM
You're welcome and glad that you have fixed the problem.
The relay tends to fail for earlier models but not those of the later models. From those that I have seen, mostly it is a manufacturing deficiency.
The solders were not strong enough causing them to crack. From information received, the explanation was that those relays that had problem were manufactured in winter where the weather causes the solder to be weakened during assembly.