1998 Acura Integra I felt a engine jerk when I press on th

Tiny
BUSSIE
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 ACURA INTEGRA
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES
Car warm up and not move.
While the clutch is in neutral position.I press on the gas pedal, the engine produces a jerk in the car.

I have brand new INNOVATIVE BILLET MOTOR MOUNT KIT.
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Wednesday, October 7th, 2009 AT 11:35 PM

10 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hi bussie,

Thank you for the donation.

I am not sure if I understand your question correctly.

Do you mean the engine jerks/miss when you blip the throttle at idle?
When rpm is higher, it does not jerk/miss?
While driving, does abrupt acceleration cause the engine to miss/jerk?
Does slow acceleration have the same symptoms?
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Thursday, October 8th, 2009 AT 8:30 AM
Tiny
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I edit the previous post.

When I am rolling with the car
the car do the frog when I release(stack off) the gaz pad
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Thursday, October 8th, 2009 AT 5:48 PM
Tiny
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If it occurs when vehicle speed is low and in 2nd gear, the most likely cause would be a bad clutch disc.

The other possible cause would be the inner CV joints.
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Friday, October 9th, 2009 AT 8:34 AM
Tiny
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My inner c.V joint bleed grease
but when I turn I hear no noise from this part.

Gear shift good

I have probaly more than one engine problem somewhere I would like to find.

When car do not rolling, in neutral gear, with parking brake, when I press a little bit hard on the gasoline pedal, I feel shake all over here. Female get orgasms when take a ride with my car. When I open the hood I could see the Oil checker shaking UP and down. If I put engine on the ground we cant made a race with only the engine. My engine look like old school washing machine.

When I start the car the rpm gauge indicator stay to 1500rpm for 3 second after is drop to 1250 rpm. When idle drop down to 1250rpm the car shake and the engine noise change the sound. After 2 second the idle return to 1500 rpm. When the car is warm up idle stay to 750rpm. If I use something electrical would take a lot of juice battery the Idle could get drop of 50 rpm.

When I drive If I put the gear to neutral the idle stay on 1000rpm. When the car stop rolling 3 second later the rpm gauge indicator decrease to 750rpm
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Friday, October 9th, 2009 AT 6:56 PM
Tiny
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The inner CV joint would not emit any noise wjile driving unless it is in very bad condition.

Seems I have misunderstood your question.

What you are experiencing seems to be a misfiring of the engine and one of the most common causes are
1. Bad Spark plugs,
2. Faulty Distributor rotor /cap.
3. Faulty ignition coil.
4. Bad spark plug wires. Get them ohmed out fpor resistance.
5. Check plug wire installation and for presence of oil in the spark plug tubes.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2009 AT 7:16 AM
Tiny
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I change the spark plug wire, the spark plug and the cap rotor. When I press on the gas pedal, the engine stop produce jerk.

But all problem in the last post still there.

I notice something today : The car are in parking, not move. When I pump fast on the brake pedal the RPM idle go 200RPM up
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Saturday, October 10th, 2009 AT 7:14 PM
Tiny
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I change the spark plug wire, the spark plug and the cap rotor. When I press on the gas pedal, the engine stop produce jerk.

But all problem in the last post still there.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2009 AT 7:31 PM
Tiny
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If depressing the pedal causes the rpm to go up, the seal between the brake master cylinder is leaking. However it should be noted that minimal swing of the rpm is normal as the booster requires vacumn from the engine and when this occurs, the rpm would increase.

Electrical loads would increase the strain on the engine but there should be no drop in the rpm as the PCM would compensate for it. Get the throttle body and IAC valve cleaned. Seems they are dirty causing the controls to de delayed.

The above items would also cause the erratic idling while warming up.
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Sunday, October 11th, 2009 AT 4:10 AM
Tiny
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Please note my engine and my shift gear is a b20b.
I have a b18b1 intake manifold. Some part are unkown(throttle body, iacv). Probaly a b18b engine computer. How find the computer type?
I need a computer for b20b or b18b?

I have zero brake fluid leak
If I press one time on brake pedal no rpm change.(Stay on 750rpm)
If I quickly pump the brake pedal, this cause RPM increases (750RPM TO 1100RPM MAX)
sometime when I press on brake pedal I hear a noise. Sound like a vaccum leak in the brake booster or internal leak in the brake master cylinder?

Throttle body and IAC valve already cleaned (2 time). I clean with brake cleaner and another time with throttle body cleaner.

Yes when I use electrical ( power windows, light, Rear Window Defroster. This cause decreases in rpm (750rpm to 500rpm)

. When I move with the car on the street and I put the neutral gear the RPM GAUGE INDICATOR stay on 1000rpm or 1100rpm. When I stop completly, and car stop move for 3 second, the RPM decrease(1000rpm to 750rpm).

Very bad when start warm up because engine noise change and car jerk and car vibrate and the rpm indicator was unsteady

this symptom sound like car virus infected by the guy installing my engine. My check engine light not work and service coming soon light not work. Some time the check engine light get on and off. The engine installer guy said I have 6 engine error code. The guy show me oxygen sensor error code, he said this could cause misfire. He talk about cleaned fuel injector for 60$ and change oxygen sensor.
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Sunday, October 11th, 2009 AT 12:38 PM
Tiny
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I am not into modifiactions so is not able to assist in determining what ECU is best for your engine.

Vacumn leak does not involve fluid leaks. Just the booster is leaking and that is the whooshing noise you heard when depressing the brake pedal. It could be minimal. Rapid and repeated depressing of the brake pedal would normally cause the engine rpm to fluctuate.

If you had not checked the valve clearances, get them adjusted. Improper valve clearances can cause erratic idling especially when engine is not fully warmed up.

When modifications are made to engine components, it is not easy to get a good combination without some trial and error and some fulctuations. Since CEL is not coming on, you need to check the circuit. It could be a fault with the ECM. Without the CEL you would not be able to understand id there are any trouble codes. If there are trouble codes, you would need to rectify them first as they could be the cause of the problems that you are facing.

Appropriate scanners can perform trouble code retrieval and freeze frame data readings to find out which component is not functioning correctly.
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Sunday, October 11th, 2009 AT 1:20 PM

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