Accumulator Pressure Low, no loss of braking?

Tiny
BEACHCOWBOY
  • MEMBER
  • 2010 TOYOTA 4RUNNER
  • 4.0L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 250,000 MILES
I've read through plenty of the other forums trying to match my problem to their low accumulator problem, but nothing quite matches up to my symptoms. I have the vehicle listed above SR5 with roughly 250,000 on it. Previously I had the brake alarm, abs light, and traction control light come on and got the typical "accumulator pressure low" code with my Autel scanner. That went away after about a day about 30k ago, but now it's back and no sign of going away. I have hard brakes and no mechanical problems (just drove 7 hours), but the error is there with the alarm and all. The motor for the accumulator is running and the accumulator appears to build pressure with no obvious signs of leaking. However, the accumulator motor cycles frequently and at the end of some of the cycles it ends with a screeching, kind of sounds like a goose in an odd way. Everything I've seen online, there's normally a loss of braking power or some other symptom that points in the right direction, but I am officially lost and asking for any help. I've checked fluid, bled the ABS system, bled the VSC system, and did a standard brake bleed as well.
Friday, May 5th, 2023 AT 5:31 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
KEN L
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The brake accumulator is responsible for storing pressurized hydraulic fluid that is used to power the brake system's booster. If the accumulator pressure is low, it may indicate a leak or failure in the hydraulic system, or a problem with the accumulator itself. If you do not have any brake fluid leak then the ABS hydraulic unit has gone bad and needs to be replaced, also there is a calibration procedure that must be followed which I have included in the images below. Check out the images (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem so we can see what's going on.
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Saturday, May 6th, 2023 AT 10:30 AM
Tiny
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Thanks for the reply, Ken. I was curious if you are suggesting replacing the whole abs hydraulic unit (essentially the master cylinder + solenoids) or if there are any part solutions such as if that seal between the two has failed or something else. Just trying to be cost effective, and not afraid to take it apart and get into the finer details. I've also attached a video with the standard actuation of the accumulator and an actuation with the "grinding" noise that I originally noted. The pressure values I previously recorded are 1.43 V Accumulator and 0.92 V master cylinder, which if I'm not mistaken is low for the accumulator (makes sense if failing sensor), but I just wanted to include as much information as possible. I really appreciate all the help!
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Saturday, May 6th, 2023 AT 5:39 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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It sounds like the system has low pressure which makes that noise. With those voltage readings it sounds like the accumulator pressure ball bladder has ruptured or the pressure pump is not working correctly. Check out the images (below). Please let us know what you find.
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Sunday, May 7th, 2023 AT 11:23 AM
Tiny
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I was originally thinking that, but was not sure what the telltale signs are. The motor definitely cycles more than it should (on average probably every 10-20 seconds), but it is able to kick on. There are no obvious signs of leakage either air or fluid from the accumulator. Braking also feels solid and as it should at all times while driving. Thanks!
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Sunday, May 7th, 2023 AT 11:55 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep, that sounds like the unit needs to be replaced, the accumulator or pump is bad. I would do both.
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Monday, May 8th, 2023 AT 1:17 PM
Tiny
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Hi Ken,

I replaced the accumulator and no change. So, I wanted to get your thoughts. Still perfect braking but cycling frequently with a master cylinder sensor voltage of 0.49V and an accumulator sensor voltage of 1.4 - 1.6V.
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Thursday, June 1st, 2023 AT 12:52 PM
Tiny
KEN L
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I have seen weak or bad wheel speed sensors cause the ABS to actuate. Do you have the code number from the ABS?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/anti-lock-system-testing-and-repair-abs

Please go over this guide and get back to us.
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Friday, June 2nd, 2023 AT 8:41 AM
Tiny
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Hi Ken,

The errors are the same as original, C1252 - Brake booster pump motor on time abnormally long and C1256 - Accumulator pressure low. My thoughts are the sensor is bad and the rest of the system is fine, which if I'm correct would require replacing the master cylinder solenoid box which contains all the electronics.
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Friday, June 2nd, 2023 AT 10:15 AM
Tiny
KEN L
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Yep that sounds correct, let me know what happens and please upload more images/videos of the job if you can :)
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Saturday, June 3rd, 2023 AT 9:32 AM
Tiny
MR305WORLDWIDE
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Beach, the common problem on brake systems with accumulators and pumps when they have high mileage is wear and tear.

The accumulator breaks down and can't hold pressure. The ABS pump motor which builds up pressure in the accumulator has bushings that wear down, so those things start to act oddly too.

A new accumulator seems to be around $200. The ABS pump just needs some cleaning and replacing the bushings, but you'll have to push out the bearings to get to the bushings on some models. A new ABS actuator is around $600-$1,000 on Toyotas.

I would just shop around exclusively for an accumulator most similar to the one in your car model and just replace that. You just simply twist it off.
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Friday, July 28th, 2023 AT 1:37 AM

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