ABS light on

Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 NISSAN MAXIMA
  • 3.0L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 266,700 MILES
ABS light came on, did 4 wheel removal/inspection of wires and sensor (did not test though). Checked all fuses related under hood and dash, noticed some shavings on inside of wheel when reinstalling but not sure which. Drivers rear doesn’t hold w/E-Brake, both rears are low on pad life. Fluid is up to full. How do I solve this as I failed emissions already and am on a time limit now for repairing? While I know the ABS is not related to the emissions, no test facility will pass me with the dash light on. I am currently working on why the check engine light continues to come on the code it's throwing is a speed sensor A, which I’ve already replaced at the transmission. I fear I need a replacement cluster as all my gauges go haywire and if I smack the dash the odometer reads right and they come back but it continues to go haywire, yes I removed it clean the plug connectors clean the film on the back tightened all the screws to no avail re-soldered solder joints etc. So I’m trying to get each of these problems one by one. Right now it’s the ABS. By the way, you guys have the most awesome videos and I’ve been the greatest helped me in all my years of wrenching. Thank you!
Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 8:42 AM

39 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,907 POSTS
Okay. Let's tackle the ABS issue first. You said you have a check engine light on for a wheel speed code? What is that actual code? Also, have you checked what codes are in the ABS module? On this vehicle it may not actually store the codes so the wheel speed sensor code may be the same. Which is why I am asking about it. Most likely if you still have that code then that is the cause of the ABS light as well.

Let's start with which code it actually is and we can go from there because that will give us some things to test.
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 8:48 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
Good afternoon,

There is a fault code stored for the system and we need that code to narrow the area of failure.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-warning-light-on-easy-repair-guide

The sensors are the most common reason for failure but must be verifed. If you check the sensors, check the resistance of each sensor at the connector and there should be 800-1700 ohms.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-wheel-speed-sensor-test

Roy
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 8:49 AM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
  • MEMBER
  • 22 POSTS
0500, and 0600 are the two codes. Communications link and speed sensor.
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
Okay, if you have a scan tool, see if you can read vehicle speed on your scanner.

If you can, it could be the dash cluster that is bad.

If you do not, it could be the sensor itself. This is very common. It is located on the output shaft of the transmission where the axle leaves the transmission to the front wheels.

The 600 is for communication between the TCM and the ECM. Without the VSS signal, this could be the issue.

I would have the 500 done first as the 600 may go away when that is resolved.

Roy

VEHICLE SPEED SENSOR (VSS) (DTC: P0500)
The vehicle speed sensor is installed in the transaxle. It contains a pulse generator which provides a vehicle speed signal to the speedometer. The speedometer then sends a signal to the Engine Control Module (ECM).

600

With Generic Scan Tools
(4)Start engine and raise engine speed to more than 1,000 rpm at once.
(5)Run engine at least 10 seconds at idle speed.
(6)Run engine at least 10 seconds at 2,000 rpm.
(7)Set selector lever in "D" position and run engine at least 10 seconds at idle speed (with vehicle stopped).
(8)Drive vehicle at 12 to 20 km/h (7 to 12 MPH) for at least 10 seconds in "D" position.
(9)Select "Mode 3" with GST.

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Electrical Diagrams

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Circuit Connectors

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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 2:37 PM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
  • MEMBER
  • 22 POSTS
I have already replaced the speed sensor at the transmission, only 4 wheel sensors left correct?
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 2:50 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Yes, but they need to be tested to verify they have failed.

Did you check to see if the vehicle speed was present in the ECM while driving?

Check the sensor for resistance. They should have 800-1700 ohms at the connector.

I posted the guide on how to check them.

Roy
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Sunday, March 22nd, 2020 AT 2:56 PM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
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Also, I’m clueless “how” to check ECM for VS while driving. (That’s under the left of middle console?)
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 4:50 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
That is why you need a scan tool. It will read vehicle speed on live data. Most code readers will not read live data. You need a real scan tool that has the capability of reading all the data needed to determine signals.

You can but one, but they can get very pricey. They run from about $500.00 to $2,500.00.

Roy
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 5:14 AM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
  • MEMBER
  • 22 POSTS
Thank you for the much needed information. Well, I cannot afford a scan tool like that as I am not a mechanic by trade anymore. I can still do the other testing that you requested. I will let you know my results and we will go from there. Thank you again.
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 6:52 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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You are welcome.

We are always glad to help.

Roy
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Monday, March 23rd, 2020 AT 6:54 AM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
  • MEMBER
  • 22 POSTS
Not to change subjects but I had to do a water pump when I got home from work today because I’m spraying fluid out of my overflow tank. So I did that, but my right side fan still does not come on only the left side.I thought they should always work together at all times. So now I’m thinking I have a bad temperature sensor?
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 12:41 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,796 POSTS
Okay, by site rules, we can only help with one issue at a time.

If you could go back to the beginning and start a new question, we will be happy to help you with this issue.

Roy
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
  • MEMBER
  • 22 POSTS
Okay, I understand that perfectly. I just unplug the sensor connector at the drivers rear wheel and tested it to connections while my son spun the wheel I got 415 a C volts.
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 3:03 PM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
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Spun wheel=415 ac volts at lr sensor.
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 3:04 PM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
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Actually it went up to 460 and then drop down as the wheel slowed.
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
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Okay, but I asked you to check ohms. You need 800-1700 ohms on the sensors.

The AC voltage is good, there is no specific value for voltage as it just needs to produce the AC voltage.

Roy
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 3:18 PM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
  • MEMBER
  • 22 POSTS
I’m sorry, doing too many things at once today. I will not have the opportunity to work on this car again for a few days if it’s okay I will pick up with you then where we left off and I will retest in arms as requested.
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
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Ohms
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 3:36 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
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Not a problem at all. We will be here for you when you complete your testing.

Roy
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 3:39 PM
Tiny
JOHNDUBE66
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You guys are a Godsend. Never been happier w/and advice line.
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Tuesday, March 24th, 2020 AT 3:44 PM

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