Brake is locked up

Tiny
MUSTANGMATT42
  • 2000 FORD MUSTANG
  • V6
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 163,000 MILES

The car sat for a few years now trying to get her back on the street, and ABS light is stuck on and front passenger side brake is locked up. I have replaced pads and caliper bled the brakes light is still on and brake still locking up the tire. I am stuck no idea what is wrong.

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Tuesday, May 9th, 2017 AT 9:58 PM

29 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
  • 28,837 POSTS

When the brake is sticking, stop on a slight incline, shift to neutral, place a block about a foot downhill of one tire, then loosen the steel lines at the master cylinder. Hope the brake does not release. If it does, we will have to discuss the solution. It will likely cost more than the car is worth.

If the brake did not release, crawl underneath and open the bleeder screw on the sticking caliper. If that lets the brake release, the best suspect is a constricted rubber flex hose. A few more tests will verify that.

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Tuesday, May 9th, 2017 AT 10:51 PM
Tiny
MUSTANGMATT42
  • MEMBER

That will not really work, as it is the tire sticking, the car still moves freely and normally but the tread is clearly wearing faster, and if driven a lot you can smell the brakes from rubbing the rotor.

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Tuesday, May 9th, 2017 AT 10:54 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
  • 28,837 POSTS

So the brakes are not sticking, yet they are getting hot? Something is rubbing, but the car moves freely? Any chance you can post a couple of photos, including the lower ball joint? Was this problem occurring before the brake parts were replaced? What area of the tread is wearing?

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Tuesday, May 9th, 2017 AT 10:59 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
  • 3,726 POSTS

Remove the tire. Pump the brakes a couple times then back the brake bleeder out. If you get a spurt of brake fluid you probably have a bad rubber brake line. When you apply pressure the damaged hose acts like a check valve and holds the brake on just enough to cause the brakes to get hot.

The other option is a bad wheel bearing that is letting the rotor shift and rub the brakes. It would cause tire wear but if it's that bad it should be readily noticeable.

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Thursday, May 11th, 2017 AT 8:30 AM
Tiny
MUSTANGMATT42
  • MEMBER

But would a bad wheel bearing cause a ABS light?

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Thursday, May 11th, 2017 AT 1:03 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
  • 28,837 POSTS

If it lets the rotor tilt, the tone ring can move way from the wheel speed sensor, and that will cause a loss of signal even though the computer sees the circuit is okay electrically. The type of defect will be described in the diagnostic fault code. Those need to be read from the ABS Computer and recorded to tell us where to start.

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Thursday, May 11th, 2017 AT 6:59 PM
Tiny
MUSTANGMATT42
  • MEMBER

It makes no noise, rotor is wearing normally, I'll have to go more indepth this weekend

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Thursday, May 11th, 2017 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
2CARPROS KEN
  • ADMIN
  • 10,866 POSTS

Please let us know what you find ;)

Cheers, Ken

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Tuesday, May 16th, 2017 AT 12:07 PM
Tiny
REBELPTA
  • 2001 FORD MUSTANG

Brakes problem
2001 Ford Mustang 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 115000 miles

When I apply the brakes hard the ABS is not working and I think the front brakes are the only ones that actually lock up. The ABS light is not on. I have noticed that if I apply pressure to the brakes, the front will hold when I accelerate and the rear will not resulting in a burnout.

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
  • 17,534 POSTS

You will need either a pressure tester, or raise the car on a lift, have some one step on the brake, and try turning the wheel, has there been any recent brake work? BTW the fronts do apply more pressure than the rear, so a burnout is always possible, If the ABS light comes on with the key on, then goes out, ABS passed self test!

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HEBERGONZALEZ89
  • 2001 FORD MUSTANGFORD MUSTANG

My 98 mustang gt is having problems with the front brakes both of the brakes get locked I replaced the brake booster, master cylinder, calipers, and the distributor but the brakesstill get locked it feels likeif something is getting pressre into the lines am not sure if its the absmotor and pump or the abs relay please help me

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
  • 17,534 POSTS

If the abs light is on try pulling the fuse.I have not seen an abs system lock brakes! Have you changed the hoses? And are you using Brake fluid DOT 3 or 4 only? Any other fluids in an ABS system is NG!

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMUS93
  • 2003 FORD MUSTANG
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 8,784 MILES

Dear Carpros.

I'm having a problem where my brakes are sticking. The problem is mainly with the front left caliper but the front right is also sticking slightly.

I have tried a couple of things. For instance, I've fixed the sliding pins and I have had the brake calipers restorated by a company nearby but nothing seems to work.
My thoughts at the moment are that there might be a faulty brake line or perhaps the master brake cylinder is in bad condition?

I would be very glad to hear your thought on the matter!
Thanks in advance.

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
  • 49,803 POSTS

Try replacing brake hoses in front it may be collapsing and wont' let fluid return. Happens alot

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMUS93
  • MEMBER

Thanks for the response. I will give it a shot!

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
FLUNKY
  • 2001 FORD MUSTANG

The Emergency brake on my 2001 V6 Mustang (ABS not equipped), doesn't seem to work properly. If I pull the E-brake while in motion, it doesn't lock up the rear wheels. It doesn't even hardly slow the car's forward momentum. I changed the pads and rotors all around (I have rotors on the front and rear), but that didn't fix the problem either. I have to press the brake peddle very hard to get the rear brake pads to engage their rotors. In icy conditions my rear wheels will push my car while the front wheels are locked up. I have three questions. Is this normal? How can I fix this if it is not normal? And, is there a way to adjust the pressure applied to the rear rotors by the E-brake?

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MERLIN2021
  • EXPERT
  • 17,534 POSTS

First thigs is the parking brake incorporated into the rear caliper? If yes, when the pads are done you need to adjust the caliper by turning the piston to take up any slack in the pads. Allso align the tabs with the slots..


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/62217_Caliper_1.jpg

Get back to me...

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAY_KOBIASHI
  • 2002 FORD MUSTANG
  • V8
  • RWD
  • MANUAL
  • 150,000 MILES

I have a 2002 mustang five speed. For about three days the drivers side rear wheel has been grinding. Today it completely locked up after a loud pop and would not move forward. It went in reverse (with the same grinding noise) but would not go forward. Are the breaks locked up or what. And what should I do.

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
  • 10,123 POSTS

THAT WOULD BE THE FIRST THING I WOULD INVESTIGATE

I DON'T KNOW HOW MECHANICAL YOU ARE, AND THIS IS "YOUR BRAKES", SOMETHING YOUR LIFE DEPENDS UPON. IF YOU HAVE SOME AUTO ORIENTED PALS, YOU MIGHT DIY THIS YOURSELVES

IF YOU ARE NOT SURE AT ALL ABOUT THE DIY, HAVE A PRO LOOK AT IT. MAYBE IT'S JUST THE BRAKES AND NOT THE BEARINGS, AXLES, OR DIFFERENTIAL

KEEP US INFORMED

THE MEDIC

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAY_KOBIASHI
  • MEMBER

I replaced the front pads this winter, and the back ones exactly a year ago. Since it just happened I haven't looked at it in detail but the pad that you can see through the rim looks fine, still plenty of of pad left on (like I said only a year old). Obviously can't see the pad on the back side, but if the one is fine I'm hoping the other is fine. I plan on taking it apart tomorrow, but I was just seeing if anyone knew what it could be and why its only one wheel. Last part, if I do take wheel off, caliper off etc and don't see any problems and put back on and there is still the sound what could it be. I would prefer to do it myself (aka save money).

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Wednesday, May 17th, 2017 AT 11:13 AM (Merged)

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