Code P2015, crank no start?

Tiny
ZACHTHOM
  • MEMBER
  • 2013 JEEP COMPASS
  • 2.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 45,000 MILES
Hello. A couple days ago my vehicle listed above (Latitude with 45,000 miles) was running smoothly, no issues or red flags. Yesterday morning I went to start it up and the engine cranked with no start along with a check engine light, code P2015 (Intake Manifold Runner Sensor). I checked and replaced the sensor, same issues. I can hear the fuel pump engaging when I turn the key to the "on" position and I made sure that fuel was making it through the lines by detaching the fuel line at the engine and turning on/cranking with the fuel line in a dry bottle. No water in the fuel and pressure looks fine. Fuse box looks good, nothing blown. I have reset the computer and no new codes have come up. Could it be the spark plugs? I haven't checked them yet. Any other suggestions? Thank you.
Monday, January 23rd, 2023 AT 10:15 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
ZACHTHOM
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Edit: update, checked the spark plugs, they are good as well. Any other ideas?
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 23rd, 2023 AT 2:53 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,176 POSTS
Hi,

If you have a crank with no start condition, you may not be getting spark to the spark plugs or fuel to the engine. I realize you checked if fuel was present, but that doesn't mean the fuel injectors and injecting.

Do me a favor. See if the engine starts for a couple of seconds using starting fluid. If it does and then stalls, we know it is a fuel-related issue. If there is no change, then check to see if there is spark at the plugs.

Here is a link that explains how this is done:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-for-ignition-spark

Let me know the results.

Take care,

Joe

Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, January 23rd, 2023 AT 6:11 PM
Tiny
ZACHTHOM
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thank you for your reply, Joe. Checked with started fluid, no change still a crank/no start. Also checked the spark as per the steps and video in your attached link and no spark visible. (I even went so far as to test all the terminals both with the wire test and with a spare spark plug, I had no spark.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 24th, 2023 AT 9:36 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,176 POSTS
Hi,

My first suspect is the crankshaft sensor (CKP). If the CKP fails, you will lose ignition spark.

We have two ways we can go. Replace the sensor or use a live data scan tool, check for an RPM signal while the engine is being cranked. If you don't have a scan tool to do this, watch if the tachometer moves a little when cranking.

I attached the directions for replacing the CKP below. Let me know your thoughts and how I can help.

Also, take a look at this link. I feel you will find it of interest.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Take care,

Joe

See pics below.
Images (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, January 24th, 2023 AT 2:02 PM
Tiny
ZACHTHOM
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hi Joe. I don't have that live data scan tool, but I did watch the tachometer just now and the needle did move when cranking the engine, so I'm assuming that means there is an RPM signal. Just so I know, what does this tell me about the CKP. (I am waiting on the sensor at the moment.)
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 25th, 2023 AT 5:43 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,176 POSTS
Hi,

If the tachometer is moving, that indicates there is a signal from the CKP. So, why no spark to any of the plugs? All 4 coil packs wouldn't fail at the same time. Here is what to do next:

If you look below, I attached the wiring schematic for testing coils. Note that each one of the coils will have a brown wire with a gray tracer and a second wire that will be different at each coil.

First, check both fuse 18 and fuse 23 in the power distribution box under the hood. It is important that if the fuse is good that you confirm there is power to and from both.

Here is a link that you may find helpful:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-fuse

If both fuses are good and have power, turn the key to the run position. Check each coil's brown wire with a gray tracer for power. With the key on, each coil should have power to that wire.

Let me know what you find.

Take care,

Joe

See pics below. Pic 3 shows the fuse locations. If both are good, switch the ASD relay with a known good one from the box having the same part number to see if that makes a difference.

Images (Click to make bigger)
Thumb
Thumb
Thumb
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Wednesday, January 25th, 2023 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
ZACHTHOM
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hello, sorry for the delay, been waiting on some parts. Just to update/recap for the above issue I have: 1.) Replaced the Intake Manifold Position Sensor as per the original code thrown. 2.) Replaced the battery. 3.) Replaced all spark plugs 4.) Replaced the Crankshaft Sensor. 5.) Replaced the ASD relay as there was some corrosion on one of the pins. 6.) Made sure all other relays and fuses were receiving power and were not blown. 7.) Made sure there is sufficient fuel pressure getting to the engine from the pump. 8.) Verified that fuel is getting to the spark plugs 9.) Using starter fluid did not work. 10.) The tachometer is registering when I crank the engine. 11.) The remote starter also does not start the vehicle. Not sure where to go from here with the 2013 Jeep Compass Crank/No Start issue.
Thank you,
Zach
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Monday, February 6th, 2023 AT 8:54 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,176 POSTS
Hi Zach,

You were busy. Did you check the brown wires with a gray tracer at each coil for power? If you did and there was power, we need to check for a ground path.

If there is power, disconnect the connector at one of the coils. Remember, the brown/gray is the power supply so avoid it. In this test, we are checking the other wire at the connector for a ground path.

Now, take a test lamp and connect the alligator clip to the battery positive. With the test lamp probe, probe the ground path wire in the connector. Have a helper crank the engine.

If you are getting the ground needed, the test lamp will flash on and off. Try this at each coil pack and let me know what you find.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
+1
Monday, February 6th, 2023 AT 8:45 PM
Tiny
ZACHTHOM
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Hello. Performed the above test: There is power present at each coil. Probed the Ground wire and there is a dim light in the test lamp prior to cranking the engine. There is no light/flashing light in the test lamp while cranking the engine at the ground wire. This occurs at each connector.
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, February 7th, 2023 AT 2:40 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 110,176 POSTS
Either we have a faulty connector at the PCM or the PCM itself has failed. That is why you aren't getting spark. Since it is on dim at all times, I suspect it is the PCM, but I would first check the connector itself to make sure nothing has shorted.

Let me know.

Joe
Was this
answer
helpful?
Yes
No
Tuesday, February 7th, 2023 AT 8:25 PM

Please login or register to post a reply.

Related Engine Not Running Content

Car Cranking but Not Starting? Try This
VIDEO
Car Cranking but Not Starting? Try This
Instructional repair video
Engine Not Starting
GUIDE
Engine Not Starting
Over the past 20 years at 2CarPros we have identified the top problems that are easily fixed. This guide can save you a trip to the repair garage or calling a tow truck and...