Brake Master cylinder replacement instructions please?

Tiny
MIDWEST-DAVE
  • MEMBER
  • 2012 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 54,125 MILES
Under heavy braking (55+ to 0 in a short amount of time, basically what happens when a light suddenly turns red) I hear what can best be described as a popping sound coming from the brake master I need to swap it out can you help me?
Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
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Sunday, September 13th, 2015 AT 5:12 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

If the brake pedal goes to the floor, first make sure there are no hydraulic leaks in the brake system. Make sure the brake fluid reservoir is full. If it is, chances are the brake master cylinder is bad.

Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

If you find the master cylinder is bad, replacing it isn't too hard of a job. When you get the replacement part, make sure it has a lifetime warranty. That way, you'll never have to pay for it again.

First, here is a link that shows how in general one is replaced. You can use this as a guide.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

The new brake master cylinder will need bench bled before install. Here is a video that shows how that is done:

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

Here are directions specific to your vehicle. The attached pics below correlate with the directions.

_______________________________

Brake Fluid (Remove)

1. Remove the reservoir cap and the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir with a syringe.

Brake Master Cylinder

NOTICE:
Do not spill brake fluid on the vehicle; it may damage the paint. If brake fluid does contact the paint, wash it off immediately with water.

NOTE:
* Press the brake pedal several times to deplete the vacuum in the brake booster.
* Be careful when handling the master cylinder. Do not hold it at the piston, or the piston may separate from the body. If the piston separates from the body, then the master cylinder must be replaced. Do not reinsert the piston back into the master cylinder body.
* Be careful not to damage or bend the brake lines during removal and installation.
* After removal, plug the ends of the hoses and the joints to prevent spilling brake fluid.
* Make sure not to get any silicone grease on the terminal part of the connectors and switches, especially if you have silicone grease on your hands or gloves.

1. Disconnect the connector (A).

2. Remove the reservoir tank (B).

3. Disconnect the brake lines (A) from the master cylinder (B).

4. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster (C).

5. Remove the O-ring (D) from the master cylinder.

Inspection

1. Master Cylinder - Inspection

1. Inspect and note these items:

* Before reassembling, check that all parts are free of dirt and other foreign particles.
* Do not try to disassemble the master cylinder assembly. Replace the master cylinder assembly with a new part if necessary.
* Do not allow dirt or foreign matter to contaminate the brake fluid.

2. If the reservoir tank hose was disconnected, install the reservoir tank (A) and the reservoir tank hose (B) to the subreservoir (C).

NOTE: Align the " " marks (D) on the reservoir tank and sub reservoir with the paint marks (E) on the hose.

Installation

1. Brake Master Cylinder

1. Install the new O-ring (A) to the master cylinder.

NOTE: Coat the O-ring with the Shin-Etsu silicone grease (P/N 08798-9013).

2. Install the master cylinder (B) to the brake booster (C).

3. Connect the brake lines (D) to the master cylinder.

4. Install the reservoir tank (A).

5. Connect the connector (B).

_____________________________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have other questions.

Take care and God Bless,

Joe
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Friday, March 12th, 2021 AT 10:34 PM
Tiny
YEETICUS91
  • MEMBER
  • 1991 HONDA CIVIC
  • 1.6L
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 122,000 MILES
Put in two new lines in the front, one new rear drum cylinder, and have been bleeding all day. Still can't get fluid to come out of lines. Help! I don't know what else to do.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

First, open one bleeder at a time starting with the right rear, left rear, right front, and left front. Will they gravity feed? In other words, will brake fluid start to drain out?

Next, did you check the push rod for adjustment issues? Take a look through these directions and the attached pictures.

___________________________________

1991 Honda Civic Sedan L4-1590cc 1.6L SOHC (D16A6) MFI

PUSHROD CLEARANCE
Master cylinder pushrod-to-piston clearance must be checked and adjusted before installing master cylinder.
Fig. 17 Adjusting Pushrod Adjustment Gauge Bolt

Pic 1

1. Using pushrod bolt adjustment gauge No. 07GAG-SE00100 or equivalent, adjust bolt so the top of it is flush with end of master cylinder piston, Fig 17.
2. Install master cylinder rod seal between pushrod bolt adjustment gauge and brake booster.
3. Without disturbing the adjusting bolts position, install gauge upside down on booster and torque nuts to 11 ft. Lbs.
Fig. 18 Measuring Pushrod Clearance

pic 2

4. Connect booster inline with a vacuum gauge and maintain an engine speed that will deliver 20 inches of vacuum, then using a feeler gauge, measure clearance between gauge body and adjusting nut, Fig. 18. Clearance should be.016 inch.
5. If clearance is incorrect, loosen star locknut and turn adjuster in or out to adjust. Hold clevis while adjusting, then tighten star locknut securely.
6. After adjustment, loosen clevis end pushrod locknut and turn pushrod to obtain correct pedal height. Adjust pedal to floor height, to the following specifications:
a. On 1989 Accord, 8.07 inches.
B. On 1990-92 Accord, with manual transmission, 7.48 inches, with automatic transmission, 7.68 inches.
C. On 1989-91 Civic, Civic CRX and Civic Wagon, 6.02 inches.
D. On 1992 Civic, with manual transmission 6.30 inches, with automatic transmission, 6.50 inches.
E. On 1989-91 Prelude, with manual transmission, 7 inches, with automatic transmission, 7.2 inches.
F. On 1992 Prelude, with manual transmission, 6.5 inches, with automatic transmission, 7.32 inches.

____________________________________________-

Let me know if this helps.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YEETICUS91
  • MEMBER
Nothing has changed, and I have been bleeding the LR for over an hour, have gotten some fluid to come out, but then nothing. Still possibly a ton of air in the line, but I'm not sure. Would the vacuum check valve have anything to do with this problem? Or am I just better off taking it to a shop?
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

Honestly, one of two thing is happening. Either the new MC is bad or the pushrod between the brake pedal and MC isn't adjusted properly. Just for curiosity, disconnect one of the lines right at the MC. See if there is pressure when the brake is depressed. Cover the area with a rag so it doesn't spray on you or the vehicle. Have a helper depress the brake pedal while you watch to see what happens. Before you allow the person to release the pedal, put your finger over the port on the MC so it can't suck air back into it.

If there is no pressure at that point, we need to remove the MC and confirm the pushrod is adjusted. If it is, get a different MC. You may have just gotten a bad one. It happens.

Let me know what happens.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
YEETICUS91
  • MEMBER
Thank you, I will be checkin into that this weekend, once I am off from work.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

Let me know what you find.

Joe
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:40 AM (Merged)

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