Can I get brake Master cylinder replacement instructions?

Tiny
VALHEE
  • MEMBER
  • 2011 FORD TAURUS
  • 80,000 MILES
I have been told that the brake master is bad. Thank you.
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Saturday, July 6th, 2013 AT 7:42 PM

15 Replies

Tiny
DANNY L
  • EXPERT
Hello, I'm Danny.

Here is the information you requested. Here are a few tutorials for you to view on how to replace a brake master cylinder and how to bleed the system after the repair has been made:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Since you are installing a new brake master cylinder it would be best to bench bleed the unit before installation to remove air from the new unit prior to installation on the vehicle. Here is a YouTube tutorial from our site showing how to do so:

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

I've attached picture steps below on how to replace the brake master cylinder and bleed the system on your vehicle. Hope this helps and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Wednesday, March 31st, 2021 AT 11:30 PM
Tiny
FRANKIELOPEZ0577
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 FORD TAURUS
  • 0.5L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
Brake fluid is leaking from the back brakes and the tank on the master cylinder is lose do I have to replace both of them
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
In pic where arrows are there may be o'rings there so you may only need to replace the tank of master. Rear will have to fixed however. Here are the master cylinder installation instruction you have requested. Here is a guide to help you step by step with instructions in the diagrams below to show you how on your car.

https://youtu.be/WDxvEQrMkBg

and

https://youtu.be/w7gUsj2us0U

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know if you need anything else to get the problem fixed.
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WOLFE_2004
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 150,000 MILES
So I noticed while parking the other day that my brakes went to the floor. I parked it and pumped the brakes a few times and let it sit to see if it was leaking anywhere on the ground, it was not, not that I could see. I checked the resavore and it was still full. I check on the inside of the rims and nothing. I can sit and pump the brakes and they dont stiffen up like they should. I was wondering if it could be the master cylinder or something else, air bubble, or something else? I also did not find a leak under the master what could this be? It is cold here wondering if something froze?
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
If you're not leaking fluid and you are sure that the pads and shoes are in good shape and properly adjusted-Replace the master cylinder this is the one that creates the hydraulic pressure before it gets to the wheels and make sure you bleed it properly.
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WINNARGA
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 180,000 MILES
Was getting brake pad sticking/seizing on driver front disc brake. Replaced brake caliper as caliper bushing was shot and thought piston was sticking. Replaced brake line from master cylinder to caliper as there was no indication of pressure at bleed screw but was from metal line at top of rubber hose. Now vehicle has no pressure and can lock front right tire up when pressing brakes hard enough but driver front continues to role. What is wrong? I have spent $100.00 already trying to figure this out. :(
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.com.

Based on your description, it sounds like the master cylinder may be bad. This unit is a tandem master cylinder. The primary (rear) circuit feeds right front and left rear brakes. The secondary circuit (front) feeds left front and right rear brakes. What I need you to check is if the if the right rear brake is working. It sounds like the secondary circuit of the master cylinder may have failed. Check to see if there is pressure to the right rear brake. If there is not, replace the master cylinder.

I attached the directions for removal and replacement of the master cylinder in case you need them. They are specific to your car. All attached pictures correlate with these directions. The link below contains general directions for replacement of the master cylinder. It also explains how to bench bleed the new master cylinder before install.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

_________________________________________
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths, drip pans and fender covers to prevent brake fluid from contacting these areas.

1. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all vacuum in the system.
2. Remove brake tubes from primary and secondary outlet ports of brake master cylinder. Cover the ends of the lines to prevent dirt from entering system.
3. Disconnect fluid level indicator switch connector.
4. Remove nut retaining cowl top inner panel tube to brake master cylinder.
5. Disconnect cowl top inner panel tube from cowl and remove.
6. Remove two nuts retaining brake master cylinder to power brake booster assembly.

Master Cylinder
7. Slide brake master cylinder forward and upward from vehicle.

____________________

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Brake fluid will damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths, drip pans and fender covers to prevent brake fluid from contacting these areas.

1. Before installing the master cylinder, check the distance from the outer end of the booster assembly push rod to the face of the brake booster assembly.
Master Cylinder
i 2. Position brake master cylinder assembly on studs on power brake booster assembly.
3. Install mounting nuts. Tighten to 26-39 Nm (19-28 lb ft).
4. Connect cowl top inner panel tube to cowl.
5. Install nut retaining cowl top inner panel tube to brake master cylinder and tighten to 21-29 Nm (16-21 ft lb).
6. Install primary and secondary brake tubes to brake master cylinder outlet ports. Tighten to 16-20 Nm (12-15 ft lb).
7. Connect brake warning indicator switch connector.
8. Fill master cylinder with DOT 3 brake fluid to MAX line on side of reservoir.
9. Bleed the master cylinder. Refer to Brake Bleeding.
10. Perform system brake bleeding procedures.
11. Operate brakes several times; then check for external hydraulic leaks.

_________________________

I hope this helps. Let me know if this is the issue.

Take care,
Joe

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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WINNARGA
  • MEMBER
I jacked the passenger rear of the vehicle up so I could test your secondary circuit theory. I was able to spin the tire and stop it by applying the brakes. Does this mean that it is not bad?
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
The master is separated from front to rear. Do both front brakes act the same or just one side? If it is just one side the problem will be the caliper/flex hose. Does this car have ABS?
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WINNARGA
  • MEMBER
It does not seem to have ABS. When starting the car there is no indicator lamp suggesting the presence of this type of system. The passenger front brake locks up often because it is the only one working in the front. As noted before, both the caliper and the hydraulic hose (aka flex hose) have both been replaced with brand new parts. At first I thought it to be the caliper because the caliper boot was no longer seated and there was visible rust on the caliper piston. Then I changed the flex hose for fear of a collapsed hose impeding fluid flow. Neither have worked and now the brake pedal travels almost to the floor before engaging the passenger right front brake only even after checking the hard lines for blockage before I replace the master cylinder.
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
This car can have ABS, can you lift the hood and look for the ABS controller (all brake lines will run into it will a motor and controller)?
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WINNARGA
  • MEMBER
There is no ABS. The four lines cone from the master cylinder and connect to two different cross-shaped units (brake proportioning valves?). From there they travel to flex hoses and the brakes. Can the proportioning valves go bad for one wheel/brake?
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Nope they are front and rear. When the problem happens can you loosen the master cylinder mounting bolts so the master can move way from the booster 1/4 inch to see if the problem goes away if so the booster push rod is adjusted too far out.
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WINNARGA
  • MEMBER
There is no problem that happens at this point. The brakes are squishy and only engage the right front (passenger) brake. The brake pedal travels almost all the way to the floor before engaging. If I drive it and apply the brakes the car pulls hard to the right. I will try what you suggest though.
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
It sounds like a caliper slide is sized. Can you confirm both caliper can move freely?
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Monday, April 5th, 2021 AT 12:29 PM (Merged)

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