Having problems turning over?

I think you have two seperate problems. If it was heating up and you were losing power assist to the steering, that sounds like a loose belt. As far as the engine, here is a how to for checking fuel pump pressure. Check it and let me know what you find.

You will need a fuel pressure gauge. Most parts stores will lend or rent them to you.

Let me know what you find.

https://www.2carpros.com/how_to/how_to_check_fuel_pressure.htm

Has the check engine light come on? Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Finally, has the fuel pump pressure ever been tested?

Starter relay, solenoid or motor. Battery cables shorted or sulfiated battery cell. Ignitin switch or neutral safety switch are a few reasons.

Way too much information.

Do you hear a click under the hood when you turn the ignition switch to "crank"? That would be the starter relay doing what it's supposed to do.

Do you hear a loud single "clunk" each time you turn the key? That would be the solenoid on the starter motor doing what it's supposed to do. A common problem is worn solenoid contacts. It's an easy inexpensive repair to replace them, but they never fail completely at first. If you hear this loud clunk, keep cycling the key to the crank position. Eventually it will crank. This problem will get worse over time until, as in the case of my mother's van, it did finally start, but she lost count after 700 attempts and a blister on her thumb!

If you don't hear a loud clunk, turn on the headlights and try starting it again. If you see the headlights get very dim while trying to crank the engine, the battery is discharged, has a shorted cell, or the cables are loose or have corrosion between them and the battery posts.

The last thing is to put the gearshift in neutral and try cranking it. If that works, either the shifter linkage is out of adjustment or the neutral safety switch is defective. The linkage is rarely an issue unless someone had it apart for some other reason. Also, your vehicle might use a shifter sensor instead of the older neutral safety switch.

Caradiodoc

I would check the battery cables. The positive runs from the post to the strter and the negative from the post to the engine block. Make sure they are tight and are corrosion free with good metal to metal contact.

You should also test the battery, if you have a multi-meter, yourself or Advance Auto or Auto Zone can test it for you.

You need to test the voltage when it is sitting and the voltage when under load. So it shoudl have 12 volts sitting unless you just drove it it should have more up to 14.4. It shoudl read 13.0 to 14.41 volts with engine running.
To test under load, first check the voltage with all accesories on. It should not drop below 12.0 volts. Then see what the voltage is with and without accesories when the key is turned. It should not drop, a tenth of a volt is okay, but any major drop in voltage means the battery has a bad cell.

Other than that, I would suggest going the the afolrementioned auto parts stores and having them pull the trouble codes. They will both do it for free. This will give you leads as to any electrical issues that are happening that might be causing the problem.