2009 Dodge Ram noise after water pump change

AT IDLE, DO YOU HAVE ANY IDEA "ABOUT" WHERE THE NOISE ORIGINATES?

OTHER THAN REINSPECTING YOUR WORK,

SNATCH THE BELT OFF FOR A SHORT TEST, CRANK IT UP AND SEE IF IT PERSISTS

WHILE IT'S OFF, SPIN ALL OF THE PULLEYS, SEE IF THEY HAVE SIDE PLAY, SEE IF YOUR TENSIONER HAS SIDE PLAY

SPIN THE FAN BY HAND, SEE IF THE WATER PUMP DRAGS ON SOMETHING INTERNALLY

IF NOTHING ELSE, SNATCH IT BACK OFF AND COMPARE HEIGHTS OF THE IMPELLER

THE MEDIC

My best guess is that it is the water pump is where the noise is. My thoughts are that if it was the new water pump, the noise would be constant. Loudness changing with increased rpm but always a noise. I only here the noise at 2000 rpm. If I am driving, it happens around there and goes away when it changes gears and happens again at the next gear change. If I am parked I can rev it up to 2000 rpm and hold and can hear it stay constant. Sounds lime the front of engine for sure. Thanks for any help.

I JUST LOOKED ONE UP ON ADVANCE AUTO PARTS ON LINE

IT HAD A "PLASTIC" IMPELLER (I HAVE A BETTER NAME THAN THAT, I'M NOT ALLOWED TO GO THERE!)

DID YOUR OLD ONE?

WAS IT DESTROYED LIKE THE ONES IN MY PICS? (BELOW)

IF SO, DID YOU RECOVER ALL OF THE PIECES, OR COULD SOME HAVE BEEN LEFT IN THERE, NOW THEY MIGHT BE BEING SUCKED AGAINST AND GROUND ON BY THE NEW IMPELLER

THE MEDIC

The original water pump also had a plastic impeller. The impeller was in one piece. The leak, I assume, stemmed from the shaft that attaches the pulley to the impeller. Once I took off the belt, I could feel the "wobble". The new water pump seemed fine no " wobble". If I remember correctly it too has a plastic impeller. I am probably going to have to just replace the water pump with another. As I stated earlier it won't cost anything other than some more coolant and time. Does it make sense that maybe it could still be old coolant on the pulleys causing a problem? I washed them off as best I could but I suppose there could still be that sticky residue left on them. I guess I am hoping its something simple like that. It made a real mess when it was leaking. Sprayed everywhere the serpentine belt could throw it.

Your first post talked about taking the belt off and checking it. It will be alright to start the truck and rev it up to 2000 rpm and check for the noise? As for the "side wobble", I think the metal pulleys are fine. I changed the plastic idler and tensioner pulley. How tight should the bolts be on these? I think they do wobble a little but I am afraid of over tightening. Also its hard to tighten the tensioner pulley bolt because you end up moving the tensioner itself.

Also after reading a bunch of other things today the best description of the noise would be it sounds like a few coins in a coffee can. The noise only lasts a couple of seconds. You'll hear it on its way to 2000 rpm and again on its way back down past 2000 rpm each time a gear is changed.

I HAVE HAD A (MY 1st) REPAIR MANUAL, SINCE BEFORE I GOT MY 1st JEEP!

GOT IT WHEN I WAS IN THE 9th GRADE BACK IN 1979

STILL GOT IT TOO! AND A BUNCH MORE OVER THE YEARS (I MYSELF HAVE HAD NOTHING BUT CJs, PAST AND PRESENT FOR DAILY DRIVERS)

I ALSO HAVE QUITE A FEW FROM OTHER VEHICLES I WORK ON, MAINLY FOR MY FRIENDS AND FAMILY

I HIGHLY RECOMMEND YOU OBTAIN A MANUAL FOR YOUR TORQUE SPECS AND ANYTHING ELSE, THEY ARE LIFESAVERS!

I WENT AHEAD AND GRABBED YOU THIS LINK FOR AN ONLINE MANUAL (2CAR HAS THEM ON SITE)

http://www.2carpros.com/manuals.php

I REALLY DON'T KNOW IF YOU ARE "RENTING TIME" OR YOU DOWNLOAD THIS OR WHAT

I'M A PAPER MANUAL KINDA GUY!

BACK TO YOUR RIG

WITH THE BELT OFF, YOU CAN RUN THE RIG (STATIONARY) A COUPLE OF MINUTES, BEFORE IT HEATS UP WITH NO CIRCULATING WATER.

"STATIONARY" MEANING, IT WILL HEAT UP A LOT FASTER, YOUR STEERING AND BRAKES WILL NOT WORK WELL ENOUGH TO DRIVE SAFELY IF YOU ATTEMPT TO DRIVE IT

WITH THE BELT OFF, THIS MIGHT RULE IN AN ENGINE ISSUE (TIMING BELT/ CHAIN) AND MAYBE RULE OUT A BELT DRIVEN ACCESSORY OR VISA VERSA

SPIN THAT FAN BY HAND, IS IT MAYBE TIPPING THE SHROUD (NOW/ OR WHEN IT FLEXES PUSHING AIR) MAYBE THE SHROUD NEEDS SCOOTIN' OVER A 1/4 INCH? THIS MIGHT EXPLAIN THE RPMs WHEN IT DOES IT. JUST THROWIN' STUFF!

I'M STILL AN HOUR BEHIND, GOTTA SET MY CLOCKS!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

I bought a manual for my vehicle and it only listed torque specs for water pump and thermostat housing bolts in that chapter. Couldn't find anything on those pulleys. Tomorrow after work I will try running it without the belt and check the shroud. Thanks for your help.

BEST-US I CAN DO/ HAVE SCANNER/ CAN EDIT!

THESE CHARTS ARE SORTA A "STANDARD OR GIVEN" FOR THE "UNKNOWNS" (LIKE YOU ARE EXPERIENCING)

I'VE RELIED ON THESE, FOUND IN MANY PAPER MANUALS, MANY A TIME

ESPECIALLY BEFORE I SORTA GOT THE "FEEL" FOR WHEN TO STOP ON MY OWN

REMEMBER THIS

A CLICKER TYPE TORQUE WRENCH MAY NOT MAKE A CLICK AT LOW # TORQUES, YOU MUST WATCH FOR THE HANDLE TO "BREAK OR GIVE" AT THE PIVOT, OTHERWISE YOU WILL OVER TORQUE BIGTIME 'CAUSE YOU THOUGHT IT WOULD BE A REAL AUDIBLE CLICK

ON UP ABOUT 30 FTLBS ON UP YOU'LL PROBABLY HEAR THE CLICK PRETTY WELL

YOU ARE GONNA HAVE TO DETERMINE WHETHER IT'S A "U.S." OR "METRIC" BOLT

THEN THE SIZE

THEN THE "GRADE" OR STRENGTH

BEFORE YOU CAN CHOOSE THE CHART AND THE PROPER LINE TO FIND THE SUGGESTED TORQUE

I FEEL YOU CAN HANDLE THIS, EVEN THOUGH IT MAY SLOW YOU DOWN A BIT!

I'M RIGHT HERE, WAITING FOR ANY NEWS, IF YOU COME BACK TO THIS SAME POST IN 6 MONTHS OR MORE OR LESS, I WILL STILL GET A NOTIFICATION!

YOUR TURN

THE MEDIC

Thanks for the charts. I came home today after I bought some real engine cleaner instead of that purple power stuff. Let the engine cool. Took the belt off and started it. Reved it up to 2000 rpm and a little above and no noise. So that rules out the engine which I guess is good. Should also rule out the bottom pulley attached to the crank. Just leaves me with 6 other pulleys and a fan clutch. So I proceeded to spray down the front of the engine with the good stuff. Let it sit while I got some hot water in my sprayer and rinsed it off. Dried it the best I could and getting ready to start it up.

Well that was a waste of $3.00 and 2 1/2 hrs. The noise is still there no better no worse. I guess at least I got the rest of the old coolant off. You should have seen my driveway with all of the orange. Any opinions on the fan clutch?

YOU STILL MIGHT CHECK THE CRANKSHAFT PULLEY/ HARMONIC BALANCER BOLT/ BOLTS FOR TIGHTNESS

I LOVE (REAL) PURPLE POWER!

THE MEDIC

I will look into that tomorrow. A little tired and frustrated right now. Thanks again. Will let you know.

I STILL HAVE THE 2CAR EXPERT POOL THAT MAY AID US!

THE MEDIC

Medevac asked me to help if I can from what I've read it may be just a bad water pump. If it doesn't make the noise with belt off then it is definitely something in the accessories. Check your belt alignment if it looks straight. Tensioner to block torque is 30 ft. Lbs and tensioner pulley is 45 ft. Lbs it cold also be the fan making the noise as it may be loose also check to see if fan shroud hits the fan as it can do that while the engine torques over which it will at that rpm. If you have some white spray paint paint the edge of shroud and start truck if the paint is gone it's hitting. Fan drive should be 37 ft. Lbs. The chart I have attached is for the 4.7L only for water pump bolts so check that as well. Hopefully it will straighten out