Key stuck, shifter stuck, no power

Tiny
EQUINOX123
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 CHEVROLET EQUINOX
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 114,000 MILES
I came back from work, no issues. Decided to go out car will not start. Could not
remove they key from ignition, shifter stuck in park, The instrument panel
shows some sporadic flashes of headlight indicator. I heard slight almost
buzzing from the speakers. No door chimes, no dome lights. Attached start
booster and wipers turned on, worked very slowly, when I accidentally hit
the lever, still no full power to instrument cluster. Tried brand new spare key
no luck. Googled this mysterious problem and came up with following ideas
but no sure solutions.
(1) Drained battery, however car supposed to be able to start with booster no
dice here.
(2) Brake light switch (as it controls three different items, including being one of
the causes of traction control and stability track warnings, both an issue in my
car) so it is a possibility
(3) ignition switch dealers first choice at $186.00 or and apparently not a
solution to a majority of people that done it.
(4) ignition switch sleeve or loose wires there.
(5) ignition switch assembly, not sure if that is not what some people call
sleeve $400.00?
(6) shifter assembly (does it come with integrated solenoid and whole thing
needs to be replaced? It solved problem that appeared like what I have).
(7) park neutral switch (BTSI switch) or rather its solenoid.
(8) broken or loose wire to the above. I did not really see anything loose or
broken, when took it apart.
(9) micro switch/broken tab checked it looks okay ( apparently it is the cause if
a car starts and everything else seems to be okay, just stuck shift leaver and
stuck key).
I would appreciate any insight.
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Thursday, June 29th, 2017 AT 4:22 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
If the battery is truly drained those small booster packs will not do much. I would check the battery first. Pull it and have one of the parts stores test it, then the cables, GM battery cables get eaten up by any acid that leaks from the battery seals. Check both ends. Ninety nine percent of these issues are battery/charging system related.

If the battery gets it running have a shop do a full charging system test, you could also have a failing alternator that draws the battery down or does not charge it properly.
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Thursday, June 29th, 2017 AT 10:59 AM
Tiny
EQUINOX123
  • MEMBER
I plan to start testing all those possibilities tomorrow, starting with the battery and charging system
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Thursday, June 29th, 2017 AT 4:40 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Be advised that if the battery has discharged fully you may need to run it a while before it will idle and run properly. Most newer vehicle "learn" values from the various sensors to enable them to idle, shift and more.
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Thursday, June 29th, 2017 AT 7:39 PM
Tiny
EQUINOX123
  • MEMBER
All the symptoms search all the videos watched and it was dead battery. Sigh
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Friday, June 30th, 2017 AT 2:54 PM
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Most newer vehicles are vampires, they will suck the life out of a battery in about 3-4 weeks unless they are disconnected, driven or put on a battery charger. There are multiple modules that don't shut down fully.

But glad you got it fixed.
Come back anytime with your car questions, tell friends about us and Thank you for using 2CarPros.
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Friday, June 30th, 2017 AT 2:57 PM

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