Air Conditioner not working

Tiny
LISAAMARIEE1
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 MERCEDES BENZ C230
  • 80,500 MILES
Even before our heat wave started, and although inconsistant, the air conditioning in my C230 Kompressor seems to be delayed when turned on. Once I turn it on, the light goes on but the air is not coming out. Possibly up to a minute later, or a shorter time, the air will start working and cool as it normally does. I have not done anything with it yet, but I was thinking a re-charge kit may be in order? I am not sure.
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Tuesday, June 25th, 2013 AT 10:57 AM

97 Replies

Tiny
SEANGRANT00
  • EXPERT
It could be you need to add Freon added to the system. They sell kits at most auto parts stores that are relatively easy to use. Hopes this helps!

THis guide will help you see whats going on to fix the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Sean
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Thursday, June 27th, 2013 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
DENNIS CELESTE
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 MERCEDES BENZ C230
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 84,000 MILES
I have had bad experience with my c230 compressor since I bought this car. I actually stop using it as it might create more headache as it is expensive to take it to the dealership. My question is the air conditioning it blows air but it is not cold. I don't want to take it to the dealership as they always charge me so much.
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Friday, March 27th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GFIMOTORCARS
  • EXPERT
The problem you describe can be related to many issues but here are some ways to check AC components that may lead you to an answer. First check your AC control panel. If you see AC button or Recirculation button flashing this is an indication of no Freon in the AC system, i.E. A leak in the AC system. These can be tricky to find if you don't know what to look for. Check around fittings on your AC lines for oil residue as your AC system contains PAG oil and during a leak can leave residue behind. If you have no display flashing on the AC control panel I would next move to the AC Compressor under the hood. Once you identify the AC compressor look to the front of the Compressor pully, this is your AC clutch. When the car is running and the AC is off, this clutch will not move with the rest of the pully. When the AC is turned on the clutch assembly will move with the pully. If the clutch is not moving when the AC is turned on this is an indication of Compressor Clutch failure and will require compressor replacement. AC work should only be done at a facility that has appropriate recovery and recharge equipment as Freon is very hazardous to the environment. Also keep in mind if you are doing AC work yourself, once you open up the system (disconnect any AC lines) you need to also change the Receiver Dryer.
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Friday, March 27th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
VIZSLA03
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 MERCEDES BENZ C230
6 cyl Automatic 92000 miles. All of a sudden my A/C started blowing hot air. Engine maintained normal temps, no weird sounds. Just one real hot car.(In phoenix) i'm praying its not something dreadfully expensive. Does it sound like I need freon?
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Friday, March 27th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVEW84
  • MEMBER
This sounds more like the temperature blend door actuator has gone bad here is a guide to help you see what you are in for when changing it out with diagrams below of what it will be like for your car. Is the passenger's side cold?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/replace-blend-door-motor

and this might help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-air-conditioner-not-working-or-is-weak

Check out the diagrams (Below). Please let us know what happens.

Cheers
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Friday, March 27th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RX008
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 MERCEDES BENZ C230
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 35,600 MILES
Hi,

My 04 C230 (35,600 miles) has the ability to have the drivers side a different temp then the passenger side.

I currently have a hissing noise under the dashboard and the drivers side vents are blowing warm/cool air while the passenger vents are blowing cold air.

Any ideas on what this can be?

Thanks
Rx.
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Friday, March 27th, 2020 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Hi Rx008, Welcome to 2carpros and TY for the donation

This one is gonna be tough and its all up to you-hissing sound indicates a vacuum leak to an actuator device the only way to find out you have to open it up and investigate, local garages will tell you the same for them to do it -its gonna be costly-sorry to hear this
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Friday, March 27th, 2020 AT 11:53 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVINM01
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 MERCEDES BENZ C230
  • 1.8L
  • 4 CYL
  • RWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Hey, thanks. I did not know about your community, thanks for letting me know about it.

So, I've been trying to figure out what's going on with my AC, it's not blowing cold at all. Normally, this is not something I work on myself, but I took it to a oil change shop, they said there was no refrigerant in the system, and filled it up w 2oz and added some dye, but that's all they did. After that, the AC is still blowing hot air (not even a little bit cold).

I checked the Fuses 41, 51, and 30. Those fuses look fine. Are there other fuses to check? Do you know where the RELAY is for the Air Conditioner?

I was told I can check the error codes on my climate control console. I tried pressing the Defroster + Re-circulation buttons and then turning the car key to ON position (something I found an a forum). This seemed to do something, but I didn't see anything on the display. Do you know the procedure for this?
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
You need to start the diagnostic sequence from the beginning, get a qualified A/C tech to set up a set of pressure gauges and see what pressures are in the system at this time, it's no good looking at electrics until we know what the system is doing at this time pressure wise.
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVINM01
  • MEMBER
That's what they did in the first place. They AC tech checked the system/pressure, it was empty. So they filled it with freeon/oil and put dye in the system. However, despite that fact, the air conditioner is not blowing cold--not even a little bit. So what's next, isn't it time to look at the electronics? The fluid is in the system.
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Has it just all leaked out again? That's why I feel you need to get the pressures re checked and a black light inspection for signs of the leak detector dye you won't see the dye with out it
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVINM01
  • MEMBER
I have a blacklight. I looked at the hoses and low/high pressure ports, the ac compressor, etc. With a black light and I don't see any leakage (green). Furthermore, I looked at the compressor while the car was running and the compressor runs, and the wheel spins, so I assume the compressor clutch works right? Also, other fans seem to be blowing too. What do I do now?
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
If the comp is running the electrics will be ok, check that the blend doors are working, they may be stuck open and you are not getting the cooling you expect, is the comp cycling and is the pipe coming out of the compressor cool to touch?
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVINM01
  • MEMBER
I'll try to get under the vehicle and check if the pipes are cold. But the comp runs and the clutch engages when the climate control unit is turned on.

How do I check the blend doors?
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
May need a dealer to run a HVAC test, this will show if blend doors are working, generic scanners will not do this and I doubt that you will get a visual or hear them operate.
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVINM01
  • MEMBER
So I got a hold of a proper scanner, and ran the AC tests. I got these DTCs:
B15C8 Left Blending Air Flap Actuator Stiff or Blocked.
B15C8 Left and Right Footwell Flap Actuator is Stiff or Blocked.

I also had one for B1460 Blower Regulator, but after I reset the codes, that one went away.

So I have these questions:

If only the Left Blending Flap (LBF) has a problem, shouldn't I only be experiencing a problem on one side of the vehicle?

How come there is not even a TINY bit of cold coming from ANY vent? It's all hot.

I did a live data test, which confirmed the fault codes. The position of the Actuator Motor was not the same as specified by the Control Unit, during the live test on the LBF. Same thing was true for the position of the Left and Right Footwell Flap Actuator Motors (there was a huge difference between their positions and the values specified by the Control Unit).

There were some other results too. For example, according to the test, my Compressor is running at 70%. The Air Conditioning/Engine Fan runs at 40% when the AC unit is not on AUTO, but runs at 100% when AUTO is switched on.

Also, when the the Climate Control unit is on, but is on manual, then you can't really feel that much air coming through any of the vents, and the car is quieter. But when you turn on AUTO, the car gets louder, and more air is coming through the vents. But it's all hot air.

Anyways, what do you think is going on here? Again, there are mainly two things that are really bothering me:
1) The fact there's no cold air coming from any vent
2) The test seems to be suggesting a problem is ONLY at the footwell and left blender flap
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVINM01
  • MEMBER
Also, if my the air conditioning system is operating properly, what would be some normal values for the Coolant Temperature, Evaporator Temperature, and the Blower Motor Regulator? Also, how many PSI/bars should be in the system?
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
I will see if I can find a schematic of the A/C system, the stuck blend door may be the main heat feed and it is diverted internally, I will look into it.
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KEVINM01
  • MEMBER
I was able to reset the position of the blend doors using Defrost + Recirc buttons while turning the iginition to the ON position, I let it run for awhile. Then turned off and restarted the car. The blend doors reset. That procedures also moves the footwell doors.

There's definitely a problem with the footwell doors, however, the AC is blowing HOT regardless of where any of the doors are positioned.

The remaining DTC is just L&R footwell actuator motor. Otherwise, compressor 70% refrigerant pressure around 5-7 bar while the AC is running. It fluctuates a little bit, depending on which setting and the temperature outside I guess.

Last night was cold, it was around 5 bar. Today, it was around 7 bar.

Anyways, what's next? I think these doors are not the reason it is only hot air.
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)
Tiny
MHPAUTOS
  • EXPERT
Do you have pressure readings from high and low side while running?
Gauge readings for common problems:

Gauge Reading:

Low side: HIGH
High side: HIGH

Potential Problem:

Too much refrigerant.
Poor condenser airflow.
Non-condensable gases (air) in the system.
Moisture in the system.

Gauge Reading:

Low side: LOW
High side: LOW

Potential Problem:

Not enough refrigerant.
Compressor problem.

Gauge Reading:

Low side: LOW
High side: HIGH

Potential Problem:

Expansion valve plugged
Orifice tube plugged
Restriction in screen (receiver dryer)

Gauge Reading:

Low side: HIGH
High side: LOW

Potential Problem:

Compressor valve problem.
Missing orifice tube.

Gauge Reading:

Low side: Vacuum
High side: HIGH

Potential Problem:

Low side restriction
Plugged orifice tube
Plugged expansion valve
Moisture in the system
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Wednesday, June 24th, 2020 AT 9:59 AM (Merged)

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