I have 2005 ford freestyle SEL
It has 3.0 V^ Duratec engine.
My problem is that Car does not blow any heat at idle.
Heat starts blowing only at higher RPMs,
I have changed coolant, thermostat, coolant reservoir and cap as well as flused heater core which had no rust in it.
The car does not overheat at all.
I did notice however that after cooling down I stil have pressure in the coolant reservoir when opening the cap (it should not happen on the cold engine)
I was told that it could be eather cracked head or headgasket allowing cylindar pressure to get into the cooling system. There is no smoke out of the tail pipe and oil looks good.
Another posibility is water pump impeller but I really dont think so.
I need suggestions to try out and or help with illustrations to replace head gasket
The first thing is to check and re-check your coolant level this is the #1 cause of this problem.
The next thing that I would say is that you might have a vacuum problem. Engine vacuum is used to move the air diverter doors under your dash. You could crawl under there and have someone else push on the gas and see if you hear the doors moving.
February, 10, 2012 AT 9:07 PM
Thanks for your response.
The coolant has been flushed twice.
First time when I changed thermostat, and second time when I Flushed heater core.
The coolant level in the reservoir is where it's supposed to be when cold.
I think that freestyle does not use vacuum operated controls. They should be electrical.
When I switch from cold to heat and other way around I can hear the actuator switch.
I can check the vacuum on the engine using my vacuum tester and let you know.
Let me know if you have any other suggestions
February, 10, 2012 AT 10:46 PM
Also does heater core plumbing have bypass hose? This can be a problem with core flow as it allows flow to bypass.
You can try pinching that hose off and see if heat improves.
February, 11, 2012 AT 4:44 AM
HOW 'BOUT A SIMPLE, "FEEL THEM HOSES" AS THE ENTER THE FIREWALL INTO THE HEATER CORE
IF THEM PUPPIES ARE REALLY HOT AT NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE, AND COOL AIR IS BEING BLOWN OUT OF THE HEATER INSIDE THE CAR. SOMETHING INSIDE/ ON THE HEATER BOX IS MALFUNCTIONING.
THAT IS, IF IT'S NOT BYPASSING, LIKE fixitmr SUGGESTED IN HIS LINK.
IF A HEATER HOSE IS CRIMPED OR TWISTED, IT COULD INHIBIT FLOW ALSO.
KEEP US POSTED
February, 11, 2012 AT 3:11 PM
Thanks for your help gus. Great site btw.
OK. Got some very good news but before I go into it I will answer your questions.
No Bypass hose or heater control valve on this car. The only hose comming of heater core outlet goes to the throttle body cooling line (this throttle body needs to be cooled with coolant)
Both hoses comming into the firewall were cold until you rev and hold 2000 rpm. Then they become warm to the touch and then after 30 sec back to normal room temp.
So my solution so far : )
It seems that there was air trapped in the system.
What I did.
Took it for the 20 min drive. It would only start heating at about 2000 rpm. Once it goes down - no heat. ( I am in canada and its -20 today : ))
So came back to the garage and decided to "BURP" the air from coolant reservoir while tha car was hot and thermostat was open.
I know that this is not very good idea because it's under pressure but I did it slowly. While releasing the pressure I noticed that coolant started rushing back into the reservoir trough the degauss line but it was not steady flow (air was comming in).
Once the car cooled down I noticed that now I have less coolant than before I drove it. I tought it was a good sign since the air has been pushed out from the system and in it s place now we have coolant
SO started the car and it started heating as it s supposed to
at heat on idle. I repeated this same test next morning and again got the heat almost immediately after start-up
Once the car
February, 11, 2012 AT 3:15 PM
I do not know what happened with rest of my response but the bottom line is that I have heat. Let's hope that it stays like that.
I have another question releted to my alternator but I will ask that in another thread
Thanks again for your help
February, 11, 2012 AT 4:32 PM
-5 IN THE MOUNTAINS OF NORTHERN GEORGIA WEARING ONLY A SET OF JUNGLE FATIGUES AND A RUCKSACK, NO SLEEP, AND STARVING FOR A FEW WEEKS "JUST" DURING THE MOUNTAIN PHASE OF US ARMY RANGER SCHOOL (I SORTA GOT A REAL GOOD 2ND TOUR OF IT, WHEN I GOT RECYCLED!). TAUGHT ME WELL, BACK IN '84. EVERY VEHICLE I OWN HAS AT LEAST TWO COATS--CHOW--AND WATER INSIDE IT.I ALSO DEVISED THE "SAHARA BREEZE" IN TWO DIFFERENT VERSIONS. 1ST WAS THE WOODEN CLAD ONE----THE 2ND ONE, I GOT A LITTLE FANCIER AT MY BUDDY'S SHEET METAL SHOP. WARMTH IS MY FRIEND!
THE 1ST ONE HEATS "WILLY", MY 1946 FLATHEAD 4 CYL WILLYS JEEP (WHEN IN THE HARDTOP MODE)
THE 2ND ONE IS JUST "EXTRA--BACK-UP HEAT" FOR MY PRIMARY DRIVER "MR JEEP", MY 1977 6 CYL CJ 5. JUST CAN'T HAVE TOO MUCH HEAT! I'D RATHER BE SWEATIN' MY TAIL OFF--THAN TO BE COLD
I WILL GIVE YOU SOME OTHER ADVICE TOO---IF YOU TRAVEL SOUTHWARD---EVENTUALLY YOU WILL COME TO WHAT THEY CALL "THE EQUATOR". ON THAT JOURNEY, IT GETS WARMER ALONG THE WAY. YOU DO NOT HAVE TO GO ALL OF THE WAY THERE. JUST STOP WHERE YOU CAN TOLERATE IT BETTER!
GLAD YOU GOT IT FIGGERED OUT--IT'S MIND BOGGLING, AS TO HOW SOME OF THE NEWER CARS TRAP AIR IN THEM, SOME EVEN HAVE SPECIAL PLACES TO BLEED THE AIR.
THAT'S WHY I LIKE MY OLD JEEPS. SIMPLICITY. FILL 'EM UP, LET THERMOSTAT OPEN. FILL 'EM UP SOME MORE. DONE!
EVENTUALLY, THE FACTORY WILL BE THE ONLY ONE WHO CAN REPAIR ONE