2005 Chrysler Town and Country Reply to 2CarPros response

Tiny
P-T MECH
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 CHRYSLER TOWN AND COUNTRY
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 52,500 MILES
BCM

2005 Chrysler Town and Country • 3.3L 6 cylinder FWD Automatic • 52,500 miles


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I started to have trouble with just the driver door lock. The lock system would not work while the unlock would. I just used the key fob as a quick cure for that problem. Then eventually when I would try and unlock the doors, using the driver door mechanism, they would unlock but immediately lock again. I would unlock the doors again and the mechanism would work fine the second time. The other day when I would shut the vehicle off and use the fob to lock the doors, they would continually lock and unlock for twenty cycles before stopping in an unlocked position. I took the vehicle to the local dealer and they told me it needed replacement of the BCM. I have no other problems other than my ambient air temp shows a malfunction, but I don't believe that is related to my lock or all edged BCM problem. I was wondering, since the driver door mechanism has an overall control with the vehicle lock system, if a replacement of that module may not be the real culprit. Could you offer some advice on this? Thank you for any help.

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P-T Mech
February 13, 2014.



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To be honest, when you started to describe the issue (would unlock but not lock) the main switch is what I felt may be the problem. However, since the locks are locking and unlocking on their own, the BCM is most likely the issue. Most likely there is an internal short in the BCM causing the problem.


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Tiny

Jacobandnickolas
Feb 13, 2014.






To 2CarPros,

I had the BCM replaced based on the dealer report, that the rep told me they had diagnosed the whole system and the problem had to be the BCM. He told me I would need a new one which I paid for up front.

After replacing it, the rep came to me and said it appears that the door actuator was not functioning and that had to be replaced. I asked about the BCM and his initial report and he said the door actuator took out the BCM.

They replaced the door actuator and the lock system works fine now.

Does it sound right that the actuator would take out the BCM? I am still of the opinion that the actuator was the culprit all along since it has control over all the door locks. I know that part was malfunctioning. The shop told me originally, they checked everything and that the BCM had to be the problem. Since after installing the BCM, they found the actuator not functioning properly, I'm assuming they never checked it even though I specifically told them to do so.

Since the BCM was a special order, I can see a shop not wanting to have to return the new BCM after installing it. To cover their tracks, they come up with a story as to why it needs to remain installed. I asked if I could get the old BCM to have it checked and they told me I would have to pay $500 for that to happen.

Another problem I have now is that my overall vehicle mileage odometer has advanced at least 25 miles and my trip odometer has gone from 92.1 to 6,347 miles. The vehicle never left the shop. I know that for fact.

I am of the opinion that I was sold a used part. I would think that any new or even refurbished BCM would be zeroed out and the dealer would reset the current mileage upon installation. I sent the shop a request to explain the differences but have never heard back from them yet.

Asking for your expertise on this?
Thank you.
Dennis McHugh
Monday, February 24th, 2014 AT 12:06 PM

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Tiny
HMAC300
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  • 48,601 POSTS
The bcm does run the door locks and what you think may be true but there is really no way to check without having the $500 spent unless they marked down the mileage on the bill and when youpicked up it had a different mileage on it meaning not the trip odometer you really have no recourse. Unless your go through an attorney and is it really worth that time and money? It's unfortunate but not a whole lot you can do. But from reading your first question it sounds like ALL the door locks were going p and down not only the driver's door so if that were the case then you have no recourse. Becaue they were probably correct in replacing the driver's door actuator.
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Monday, February 24th, 2014 AT 12:45 PM

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