Happened to my wife twice ( local trips around town ). 1st time car felt like it was going to stall then it was fine ( I drove it no issues ). A week later 2nd time car stalled pulling out of parking space then started right back up but was not running right pull into gas station car running added gas ( car was not low on gas about 1/3 of tank before gas was added to make over 1/2 tank ). Pulled out of gas station she said car had major loss of power even while foot on gas car would only do 5 to 10 mph for about 3 ( no rpm increase she looked the the rpm gauge ) blocks at light car was still not running then it was fine all the way home approx 2 miles. I took car for a ride drove on regular road onto highway did 80 mph got off went onto road with traffic stop & go went up hilly road ( used the autostick & did some shifts 1 thru 4 ) all ok dead stop to 65 mph no issues on 20 min drive. Oil looks great I change it every 3k tranny fluid looks & smells perfect. Things that were done to car was rear brakes, front motor mount ( 4 months ago ). Just change upper & lower radiator hoses & thermostat flushed system & put in new coolant all ok there. Changed the belt. Cleaned the throttle body ( no harsh chemicals ) changed the pulgs with OEM plugs gap of.050 ( old plugs looked perfect every one) did all this about 2 to 3weeks ago. ( Hard rain last night 50mph winds dry under the hood )NO check engine light ever came on.
I can make two suggestions. First, there could still be a diagnostic fault code stored in the Engine Computer. Only problems that could have an adverse effect on tail pipe emissions MUST turn the Check Engine light on. Other codes might not. Second, the Chrysler dealer has a mini scanner they can leave in the car while you drive it. You press the "record" button when the problem occurs, then they can play it back later and watch the sensor readings to look for clues. Because the data travels through the scanner's memory, the recording actually starts a few seconds before the button was pressed.
March, 8, 2011 AT 12:38 AM
If you had to guess what would be your opnion be as to what might be the problem. So if I run the computer on a scaner I might see a fault code even without a check engine light on? The crazy thing is that I never had the problem when I drive it. I take very good care of the car & everything under the hood looks fine hoses connections no leaks of any sort. Thanks for your help
March, 8, 2011 AT 12:59 AM
I also found a recall I posted it below. Tell me what you think. Regards.
NOV 09, 2006
2005 Chrysler Pacifica
ON CERTAIN PASSENGER VEHICLES, THE FUEL PUMP MODULE AND THE POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) SOFTWARE MAY ALLOW THE ENGINE TO STALL UNDER CERTAIN OPERATING CONDITIONS.
THIS COULD CAUSE A CRASH TO OCCUR WITHOUT PRIOR WARNING.
DEALERS WILL REPROGRAM THE POWER TRAIN CONTROL MODULE. THE FUEL PUMP MODULE WILL ALSO BE REPLACED ON VEHICLES BUILT FROM AUGUST 1, 2004 THROUGH SEPTEMBER 30, 2004. THE RECALL BEGAN ON NOVEMBER 21, 2006. OWNERS MAY CONTACT DAIMLERCHRYSLER AT 1-800-853-1403.
Potential Units Affected:
The only thing I'm sure of is any guess stands a 100 percent chance I'd be wrong. Anything you could see under the hood, such as loose vacuum hoses would typically cause a problem all the time. Intermittent problems, especially those that don't act up very often, are usually electrical in nature. Unlike GM fuel pumps, Chrysler pumps rarely quit while you're driving, however a poor connection in the pump's electrical connector would cause the pump to stop momentarily. A dropout of the signal from the crankshaft position sensor will cause the Engine Computer to turn off the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. That will remove power from the ignition coils and injectors. The circuitry in the Engine Computer that drives the injectors and coils is high-current circuitry and as such is susceptible to failure. Even a little corrosion on one of the computer's electrical connector pins could cause a problem. Those are just a few examples of the types of things that might be found. As for the recall, it looks like your vehicle is too new to be included. You would have gotten a notice in the mail too.
March, 8, 2011 AT 3:10 AM
I purchase it used 2 years ago I'll try the 800# to see if my Pacifica is part of the recall. Thanks for your insight you have been very helpful. Regards Phil Will run my computer scanner tommrrow. I'll shoot you an e-mail if I find any problems.
March, 8, 2011 AT 4:09 AM
Thinking about a bad Crank position sensor on my Pacifica. My neighbor had a problem with his Chrysler regarding this part. Any input would be helpful. Hey Did I talk to regarding a 1988 Caravan about a week ago are you the same guy?
March, 8, 2011 AT 4:38 AM
Could be me. I have an '88 Grand Caravan, an '89 Grand Voyager, and a '95 Grand Caravan. The most common symptom of a failing crankshaft position sensor is it will stop generating a signal when it gets warm. With the loss of that signal, (or the signal from the camshaft position sensor), the Engine Computer thinks the engine stopped rotating so it turns off the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay which turns off the fuel pump, ignition coil(s), injectors, alternator field, and oxygen sensor heaters. After that sensor cools down, typically in 30 to 60 minutes, it will work again for a little while. It's less common but the sensor could suddenly fail completely. While momentary signal dropouts are a possibility too, loose connector pins would be a more likely cause of a brief stall or sputter that clears up almost right away.
March, 15, 2011 AT 3:56 AM
Car has been fine for about a week (used scan tool as per your sugestion no codes & ran a scan & watched all vitals every thing was good ) she warmed up car for about 10min this AM drove approx 1/2 mile to drop off kids at school when she stoped it hesitated again then was ok. I drove it nothing, she then drove around town & the check engine light came on code p0132 O2 sensor bank 1 high voltage fault heated sensor. I reset it drove it all ok? Any ideas?
March, 15, 2011 AT 4:16 AM
Ran into something similar a week or two ago. The oxygen sensor only develops around 0.2 to 0.8 volts. It has to be at least 600 degrees though to work. To get it to that temperature faster they have heaters built in that are run on 12 volts. If the wire harness gets damaged that 12 volt wire can touch the sensor's signal wire. The fault code will be set when the Engine Computer sees that 12 volts on the signal wire. For the last person, the plastic clip was broken which allowed the harness to fall onto the hot exhaust manifold. The symptom was different because a wire was grounded instead of two wires touching. I suppose the sensor could be the cause of the fault code too but that wouldn't be very common. You might also check for corrosion between two pins in the electrical connector.
March, 15, 2011 AT 1:45 PM
Ok I did a visual yesterday on the connectors but did not seperate them to look inside but would the condition you are talking about give me the hesitation that I have been getting. As far as tuning up the car what else has to be done except changing the plugs & keeping all the fluids changed & filter replaced. I feel like I am chasing down a ghost at this point. Again Thanks for your time much appreciated.