My AC blower motor quit working

Tiny
ACEROCKSHARD
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FYI! My car has an alternator. Generators don't have diodes. Voltage regulators have diodes to change a generators AC output to DC. An alternator contains a 3 phase bridged diode system. It is impossible to get 80 amps form a 240 alternator. They are bridged. One bad diode stops them all. Just sayin.
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Thursday, June 21st, 2012 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Well, you're only the third person to catch that and bring up the generator / alternator issue. Most people don't know the difference. In fact, you will not find the term "alternator" in most automotive service manuals. It was first used by Chrysler in 1960 and they copyrighted the term. All other brands that developed their own starting by 1963 used the term "AC generator" and that is what the industry has gone to in an effort to standardize terminology since 1996. As an instructor, it is more important for me to use correct terminology in the classroom, but if you go into any parts store and use the word "alternator", no one is going to correct you or even know the difference. Everyone will know what you mean.

As for the diodes, yes, all voltage regulators contain hundreds of diodes, and transistors, and resistors. I'm referring to the six high-current diodes in the output circuit that are found in every AC generator. When one fails, you will lose exactly two thirds of the output capacity. The most common car alternator / AC generator is around a 90 amp unit. That means with one failed diode you will only get 30 amps on a load test. "Ripple" will also be very high due to the one missing phase and that shows up on most professional load testers. I type this same information at least once per day and I'm involved with two people right now with this same issue. It's so common and is much more noticeable today with all the insane computers on the cars that react negatively to that ripple. In the '70s you could have a bad diode and never know it. With no electric fuel pump, no computers, no electric radiator fan, and little electronics, 20 amps from a 60 amp unit was often enough to run a few lights and keep the battery charged. The same was true, I'm assuming, on a '70's tractor, but not today. You mentioned all the computer controls you have to deal with. So do we, and at least half of ours are unnecessary and needlessly complicate what used to be reliable systems. It's partly because of all those silly computers that charging system problems become more evident and more common. The days are long gone when the alternator, ... Uhm, ... I mean AC generator would last the life of the car.

You misunderstood my use of the 240 amp generator story and I appreciate the chance to clarify what I meant. You got 80 amps from yours on a load test which is exactly correct and proves it is working properly. The only OTHER way to get 80 amps is if it was a 240 amp unit with one bad diode, ... But there is no such thing as a 240 amp car generator. Maybe in a tractor or an airplane or a ship, but not in a car. I probably shouldn't have even added the comment since I know it can be confusing and misunderstood.

One failed diode will not result on "stopping them all". A failed voltage regulator can. A failed stator winding can, but not just one bad diode. There's two different types of stator windings. GM and Chrysler use the "delta" winding. Even if one of them had a broken connection, you would still get one third of its rated capacity. Ford uses the "wye" winding with a brass rivet connecting one end of each of the copper windings together. Throw a little road salt and water on that and galvanic action corrodes the connection apart. That WILL completely stop the output and is often intermittent.

The voltage regulator has nothing to do with rectifying the AC output to DC. He is strictly in the input "field" circuit and only handles up to three amps, usually much less. I should add that while every AC generator must have six high-current output diodes, some have an extra pair that in effect capture a little wasted energy to bump up the output by perhaps ten percent. Doing that is silly because to design the generator for higher output only requires a few more inches of copper wire in the stator windings, and using diodes capable of handling that higher current. To add to the confusion, there are some imports that use two entirely separate, but connected, output circuits. They still have just the one field winding, but they have two totally independent stator windings, each with six diodes. Logic would dictate one failed diode would result in getting only two thirds of its rated capacity on a load test, if I did my math right, but I never actually tested one of those. Chrysler used that around the late '80s on one of their import engines but they weren't very common.

The bottom line of all this is you obviously know WAY more about charging systems and electronics than probably any other visitor to this site, and if your test methods get you correct results, there is no valid reason to try to say you're doing it wrong. Keep doing what you've had success with, but understand that the people we normally work with don't have that knowledge and trying to explain it just confuses the issue even more. In those cases they don't care to learn how something works; they just want to know what to do. That's fine for people who want to drive their car. It's not sufficient for automotive students.
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Thursday, June 21st, 2012 AT 9:33 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Hope I am not intruding. There is too much information out there and I don't like to read too much as eyesight is not too good.

Basically there are a few reasons for motor not blowing strongly.
1. Failing motor.
2. Power supply insufficient.
3. Ground circuit connection poor.
4. Restriction in air flow, it can be before or after motor.
5. Blower turning in wrong direction.

At maximum speed are you getting the desired air flow?
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Friday, June 22nd, 2012 AT 6:04 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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My vote is for a failing blower motor. I couldn't read all this nonsense but I don't recall anyone measuring the current draw of the blower motor. When a motor starts drawing too much current, the first sign is usually that it takes out the resister.
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Friday, June 22nd, 2012 AT 6:28 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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You guys are right. This all started with a new resistor assembly but I never did get an answer to what was wrong with the old one. Was the thermal cutout open or was one resistor corroded apart? From there it progressed to the fan works fine except when the "recirculate" button is pressed, then the fan goes dead. I described how each push button can have its own electrical contact so the problem is likely in the switch itself, and for some reason he chose to be "offended" because I didn't know how skilled and experienced he was. From there it was all downhill with him searching for a reason to be mad at anything I said. If you guys care to continue and invite more attitude and abuse, more power to you, but you're good at what you do and you deserve better. We have plenty of grateful new friends to keep us busy.
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Friday, June 22nd, 2012 AT 7:01 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Caradiodoc, there are times when things gets off on the wrong foot, stumbling is expected. Cool off and have a beer on me.

Have a great weekend.
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Saturday, June 23rd, 2012 AT 3:23 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
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Thanks bunches. I'm cool. Just never saw a reason for Acerockshard to get offended, but that was his choice. You guys have a dandy weekend too. You're wonderful human beings!
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Saturday, June 23rd, 2012 AT 6:57 PM
Tiny
ACEROCKSHARD
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You have never even heard of my make and model of car caradiodoc.
My filters are clean, my AC has knobs. Tried a new resistor because it was a cheap guess. At 3000 RPM my fan blows the equivalent of the old 2 out of 4 level. At idle I get no airflow. Before resistor replacement I had nothing. Verified all grounds. Battery, frame and cabin. No wire slack to amp test blower motor.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 2:42 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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[quote]No wire slack to amp test blower motor.
[/quote]

If that test is too much for you, then I suggest you get it to a shop and let a professional do it. It's pretty simple for a qualified tech.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 2:46 AM
Tiny
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All components of my resistor are internal. No visible clues possible. Slight condensation corrosion on exterior. Fan can't spin backwards without reversed polarity. Unless elves switched wires I think reversed polarity is unlikely.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 2:47 AM
Tiny
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Hey Wrenchtech. Wires are on firewall side of fan, impossible to test without removing fan. Removing fan requires removing disabling Passenger air bag for dash removal. Easier said than done. I will bridge across the Blower fuse tomorrow and see what amps I have there. I think that fuse however covers all AC controls, less compressor, Doubt that will isolate the problem.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 2:52 AM
Tiny
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It's a 10 amp fuse and not blown.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 2:54 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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[quote]Removing fan requires removing disabling Passenger air bag for dash removal. Easier said than done.[/Quote]

For the record. Flat rate time on changing the blower motor is half an hour.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 2:57 AM
Tiny
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LOL. If you are a midget. Warranty flat rate or customer flat rate. Big difference.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 3:04 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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Yes, you're right. There is a difference.
Warranty flat rate is.3hr
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 3:06 AM
Tiny
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Dealer has a 100.00 flat rate diagnostic. That's what I'm trying to avoid. I just was looking for 1 logical reason why, with a perfect charging system, perfect redone grounds I have this issue. 1 logical reason, I know what I'm doing. The fan is fine. What can cause this. Switches don't care about my RPM's, They open/close. No electronics per sey. Hard wire connections. It's an Aerio. Pretty primitive. Almost a 76 Vega.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 3:10 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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If you aren't prepared to use meters at the motor, then you're never going to find out.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 3:13 AM
Tiny
ACEROCKSHARD
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Wow, no wonder the dealer hates doing warranty work. It takes.3 hours just to see it. Screws come in from the top. 1/4" shallow torx won't reach the back side screws. Self tapping into steel. 6"torx required to clear fan body but there is only 3" access.
Been there dude. I have looked with my own 2 eyes. It ain't the fan.
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 3:14 AM
Tiny
ACEROCKSHARD
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My fan does not care about my engine RPMs it want's dc volts.
I left my headlights on to drain my battery to sub 12 volts to REALLY load my charging system. Instant 14.2 at 80amps on start up at idle.
What should the fan pull 4 amps at start up and 2 amps continuously?
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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 3:19 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
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OK, well you seem to have all your own conclusions and don't want to listen to anyone here so I'm finished here. I suspect you have burned your bridges with Radiodoc too.
I really don't know where you are coming up with any of the nonsense you are posting. This blower motor is 3 screws into plastic that I could have out in 5 minutes and you don't even need to remove it to take measurements on the wires which would tell you what's going on in the circuit.
Good luck

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Sunday, June 24th, 2012 AT 3:20 AM

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