Where do you live? Wouldn't be in Wisconsin by any chance?
I don't care for the universal cable clamps that you bolt to a cable, especially since you already paid to get a properly manufactured cable. Those universal ones are really meant to be a temporary repair. Instead, look for a positive cable with the correct wires. We have a small chain of Fleet Farm stores that are basically the same as a Farm and Fleet in another part of the state. I'd be willing to bet they're going to have something that will work because that type of connection to the fuse box was fairly common already by the mid '90s.
As an alternative, it's the cable to the starter that carries the largest current and must have the best integrity. Rather than cutting and splicing, you can add a second positive cable by using one with an "eye" on each end and bolting one end to the bolt on the clamp on the battery post.
I'm not wild over that little black pigtail you're holding the first picture. If that's the same diameter is the original wire going to the fuse box, that part is fine, but I don't like those butt connectors. I solder all my splices, then cover them with heat-shrink tubing, especially where you know water will be spraying in. Those are just inviting corrosion and sitting on the side of the road in a puddle of tears.
I bet you were talking about a cable attached to the stud with the pretty green arrow. If that can be cleaned up so its shiny, use that cable over and attach it with a separate nut to the sexy red arrow. First though, try to peel back the insulation and look for any white corrosion in there like there was on the battery cable. Most likely there is, and that means some of the strands of wire are eaten away already. That would be a REAL big deal to the starter. It's not as critical here but it would still be a good idea to replace it with a new one from the hardware store.
Wednesday, June 27th, 2012 AT 2:24 AM