SANTE FE WONT START, REPLACED FUEL PUMP, ENGINE CRANKS, SHOP SAYING TO REPLACE CAT?? DOESN'T SEEM RIGHT
2003 Hyundai Santa Fe
December, 11, 2011 AT 5:35 PM
Was driving home, car jsut stopped running, seemed like it wasn't getting fuel, replaced the fuel pump, check relay, car will not turn over. Took it to the shop, they said the cat is clooged thats why its not starting. I know a clogged cat will bog the engine down, but never heard of it not allowing it to turn over. Is that possible, and what else could I look into?
CHeck fuel pressure to make sure it is within spec. Check to see if you are getting spark. If the converter is totally plugged, it won't start. Disconnect it to see if it will start.
December, 11, 2011 AT 10:14 PM
Have the same problem with 2001 Santa Fe. Was running great, then wouldn't start next AM. Checked relay, fuse, power at connector on pump, reset fuel cut off switch. I replaced the fuel pump and still won't start. How do I disconnect a cat converter to see if it is the cause?
December, 11, 2011 AT 10:57 PM
Please keep in mind, the cat needs to be totally plugged for the engine not to run. It usually doesn't happen, but it can. You need to unbolt the converter from the exhaust to try. If the converter is part of the Y pipe, then it will needs unbolted at the manifolds.
December, 12, 2011 AT 1:00 AM
Thanks Jacobandnickolas. I had it happen once before to a 1980 Dodge Colt when I lived in the Caribbean. Just like that! Stopped the car and shut it off to get my mail, and then it wouldn't start. Back then, as there were no emissions laws, a creative local rammed a rod into that broke a ceramic cone inside, and voila' problem solved. I drove that car till 1993. As the dealer Cat Converters run around $800, which I don't have because of SS fixed income, what is your opinion on using an after market universal high flow one such as Kamakaze markets for racing/high performance at $105-$140? They come from 2 1/4" to 3" pipe size, with oxygen sensors and either flanges or direct fit. There is no emission testing where I live, but they do state they will pass most emissions. So would they work for me?If this will get me rolling, with what I save I can make a Christmas donation to your site.I really appreciate your quick response. KK
December, 12, 2011 AT 1:07 AM
I have used universal converters in the past with no trouble. However, and I hope you understand, I have to recommend direct fit parts. Before you purchase one, I do recommend conformation that the converter is bad. Make sure there is spark to the plugs and the fuel injectors are getting power. Also, make sure fuel pressure is within spec at the fuel rail. I would hate to see you get a new converter only to find it was a 20 dollar crank sensor or something other.
Check what I suggested before getting any parts. Let me know what you find.
December, 12, 2011 AT 3:41 AM
Thanks again. Although I've got a good mechanical head, I'll have the mechanic I've used for 6 yrs come out and check those things, as he has the knowledge and equipment to do it. He knows I'm on a budget so if I can do it myself, he's ok with that as he still makes some $ for the diagnosis. I'd love to just let him do it all. Someday. I wish I was one of those girls that doesn't know (or want to know)a thing about cars yet always seems to find someone to fix em. Unfortunately I hung out with my brothers who raced VW's in the 60's while my sisters played with dolls.I'll let you know what happens.
December, 12, 2011 AT 4:59 AM
That is great that you did that. Let me know.
December, 17, 2011 AT 1:24 AM
Ok. It's fixed. The problem was the lower cover (1 of 3 covers over timing, balance belt, crankshaft & pulley)was dry rotted, shredded and whipped around and cracked the crankshaft position sensor. Have since learned they are very delicate & often get cracked just changing the timing and balance belts. So be CAREFULL, you DIY's. Also the sensor blade gets cracked this way. Part was under $30, and the lower cover was $75, but the labor! I've had my mechanic 6 years, true gear head, honest and charges $65/hr labor as opposed to the big shops $100-$125. Never tells you you need something if you don't. 3.25 hrs labor as the damn thing is wedged behind the belts and pulleys, but the 3 ft wire that goes to the main computer was the killer as the way it's threaded, you practically have to pull the engine to do it. There was no way to solder on the old wire as absolutely no play in it. Hyundai sets themselves up for future revenue. The dealer wanted almost $700 to do it and another shop $570, so Jason did me a huge favor. Bringing him and the guys lunch on Monday.
December, 17, 2011 AT 3:19 AM
Glad you didn't replace the converter. Glad you got it fixed. Have a great holiday!