Engine will not start

Thanks for your reply. I did a fuel pressure test the other day and when I was cranking the engine the psi was 60. When I stopped cranking the pressure went to 57 psi and stayed there. I installed a new air filter the other day. Two questions: How do I check for a blocked exhaust? And what do you mean by, "see if duct work has holes in it?" Thanks. Paul

I appreciate your time helping me. Yes the fuel pressure remained at 57 psi for more than five minutes after I shut the key off. I also checked all the fuses under the hood a little while ago and they we're all good. I will check the other things you mentioned. Forgive me, but how do I check the crank and dcam sensor and where is it on the 4.3? Thanks again. Paul

I found the crank sensor, and I will check the cam sensor. Forgive me, I forgot to tell you I tried fuel down the throttle body a few days ago and it ran until the fuel ran out in the throttle body. So i'm getting 60 psi when cranking and 57 psi with ignition off. Pressure holds at 57 psi for more than 5 min: I'm thinking, if it's holding pressure there's nothing wrong with the fuel pump or filter, and the spider injectors, fuel regulator are not leaking too. What do you think? Thanks you sir! Bye the way, if I don't talk to you this year, I'll talk to you next year! Lol! Happy new year! Paul

Ok thank you. I will try that. Happy new year!

Thank God for the internet! If you have this issue, replace the distributor cap and rotor first. Cost about $40. I read numerous recommendations and everyone was talking fuel pressure, spark, crank sensor, etc. I had tried to check the spark, but one of the wires broke at the plug so I started replacing the wires and since I was there I went ahead and replaced the plugs. I did have spark, but still did not help. I did try gas in the carburetor, but did not start. This led me to believe it was electrical. I found a thread that indicated that GM had an issue where the AC line condensation would drip on the cap and corrode it. I replaced the cap and rotor and it started right up. There are horrible stories of people spending $850 for a new fuel pump and they still would not start, Even if this doesn't fix yours, it's a very inexpensive starting point. It does take a fairly short T20 screwdriver to access the rear screw. If this doesn't work, you'll have to try all those other things referenced in the various threads. Fuel pressure, fuel pump, crank and cam sensor, fuses, ECM. Good Luck, as I was prepared to have it towed to a mechanic and take it in the shorts.

I wrote this thread about four years ago and didn't finish it. My apologizes! The end result was I tried everything I could and finally had to take it into the garage. Their diagnosis was the Intake manifold gasket was worn, and After repeatedly trying to start it I flooded the cylinders which had to be drained. $900.00 later the truck was running good. Ouch! I still have the truck and been a good truck to this day. Some minor repairs I've done myself. Hope this helps someone!