Emergency Brakes Light

Tiny
NASEERNJ
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
Ford Crown Vic (CVPI) 2003

I press the emergency brakes padle down and "Red" Brakes light shows bright on the dash

I release the emergency brakes padle and the "Red" light remains but now it has dimmed a bit and not as bright as it was.
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 6:06 AM

8 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Have you checked the fluid level?

The Medic
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 6:50 AM
Tiny
NASEERNJ
  • MEMBER
Yup. Up to the brim
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 6:53 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
I just looked thru a "High Tech" On-line repair manual

I'm a Jeep Guy, thought I might be able to assist you in a quick manner, especially as late as it is, I couldn't sleep, so I try!

I usually only answer older Jeep and Ford stuff, I thought maybe this would be a quick fix, possibly you over-looked something.

Looking thru the manual, it could get involved. Sorry, I have not had any formal training with this reference. But still it may be EZ

Please do not fret, usually someone else will come along to assist, who knows more of your issue. Not many on-line this late.

WHAT I DID FIND, that did not require shop diagnostic equipment, was:

Check your brake lights for proper operation, and if one is not up to par, investigate corrosion, or the bulb not seated well.I assume that meant one may be burned out also.

Your owners manual could offer something too!

Someone else is sure to take up my slack, be patient

The Medic
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 7:25 AM
Tiny
NASEERNJ
  • MEMBER
I think you mean the rear brake lights. If I did not get you wrong.

But I have this continuously glowing Brake Light "The Alarm Light" on the dash panel which should go off on a low brake oil or a leaking brake line or a bleeding caliper and stuff.

Sorry for keeping you up at night. But its day here (13,000 Miles) in a creepy crapy desert.
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 7:41 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
I assume that you're very clear that this is the "brake warning light" and not the "ABS warning light".
The brake warning light only cones on for 3 reasons

1) Low brake fluid level
2) Parking brake applied
3) Hydraulic imbalance in brake fluid pressure between front and rear which would result in a low brake pedal.
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 12:57 PM
Tiny
NASEERNJ
  • MEMBER
Yes. Its the "brake warning light". The light stays ON. Don't know why. When I apply the parking brakes, the light glows brighter. ANd when released, resumes to its low glow.

Don't know whats the problem though. The Brake fluid is full. The other one where you say the "imbalance" is Greek to me.
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 1:59 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
The imbalance he is referring to, is the "Pressure" to your front brakes may differ from the rear brakes--- one way of looking at it would be, there is a problem along the way, as pressure reaches both--The pressures being unequal--turning on the light. On older stuff, this might be the case if the "Divided" brake fluid reservoir was empty on one side or a problem with the Proportioning valve (where the "unequal switch" is located), or maybe a crimped brake line.

Your reservoir is not divided, until its about empty, then fluid will go to the front brakes or the rear (reason the aluminum part has 2 holes sticking up, that the reservoir snaps into) If your reservoir has fluid, and holds it, then you are not empty on the front or rear system.

I have one other EZ thought to throw in, then wrenchtech will have to keep it going.

I just went to Advance Auto On-line and looked at your master cylinder assembly.

Inside the reservoir, is a float or a similar item, it moves up and down as the fluid moves up or down. When it reaches the bottom, usually from a "Low Fluid" issue, the light comes on.

In other vehicles I have seen the float may get "Stuck" at the bottom, or might get "C. Ocked", and in a bind, unable to rise up as fluid was added.

One other scenario I saw once, was a friend hit a really hard bump, the float bottomed out and it did bind at the bottom.

The way we fixed the issue was, at first, tapped on the reservoir to knock it loose. That did not work! With a small screwdriver, he went thru the cap and sorta pushed on the float and released it, it then rose to the top and his light went off!

Maybe it's that simple for you too.

Good Luck!

The Medic
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 5:50 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • EXPERT
The stuck float is usually only an issue if the float has recently bottomed out for any reason and this is something you would have been aware of because someone would have added the fluid that is there now. Look at it again and make sure it's not low. Actually look inside because the stain on the outside can be deceiving.
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Monday, May 23rd, 2011 AT 6:00 PM

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