Car won't start

Tiny
TWSHAWN4
  • MEMBER
  • 2002 PONTIAC TRANS AM
  • 90,000 MILES
I drove my car last night and it was running fine. When I tried to start it the next morning it wouldn't start. Thought it was the battery but it has a full charge. When I turn the key to start is doesn't do anything. No clicking no trying to turn over no nothing. Almost like the battery is completely dead but the lights, radio, alarm and everything works like nothing is wrong. Please help.
Wednesday, June 5th, 2013 AT 10:48 AM

17 Replies

Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Have tried a jump? What is BATT open voltage? BATT more than 3 uyrs. Old?
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Wednesday, June 5th, 2013 AT 1:38 PM
Tiny
TWSHAWN4
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yes tried to jump with no luck. Voltage is good and battery is almost 3 years old. Lights are bright radio and power windows are strong. I'm thinking it may be the starter but I have only had experience with the clicking from a starter going out not complete silence.
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Wednesday, June 5th, 2013 AT 4:34 PM
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • MECHANIC
  • 18,828 POSTS
Remove and clean BATT terminals use baking soda and little water side post hard to see corrision also when jumping hook POS to BATT POS BUT NEG to block
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Friday, June 7th, 2013 AT 8:42 AM
Tiny
BLECHNIAK
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2002 PONTIAC TRANS AM
  • 17,000 MILES
2002 TRANS AM CRANKS GOOD NEW BATTERY BUT WONT START WAS RUNNING PERFECT ONLY 17000 MILES NOT TRANS INTERLOCK, NOT SECURITY SYSTEM
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BW714
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2000 PONTIAC TRANS AM
  • 5.7L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • MANUAL
  • 124,000 MILES
I've been having starting problems, at times it would fire right up and then other times would just keep turning over, I took it to gm and they said it was a fuel pump so I put a new one in it, it works for a couple days perfect now it's back to not starting at all again. Very confused!
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,544 POSTS
Have you checked for spark and fuel to the engine?
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BW714
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Yes, both. Before I put the pump in the engine wasn't getting any gas, right after I changed the pump out gas shot out like its suppose to.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 109,544 POSTS
If you have proper fuel pump pressure and the spark plugs have good spark, it should run. Try something for me. See if the engine will start using starting fluid. Let me know what you find.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDSULLIVAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
  • 2000 PONTIAC TRANS AM
  • 70,000 MILES
I have a 2000 Pontiac Trans AM that won't start. Battery new, all fuses OK, relays OK, everything else works, just won't start, turn over, nothing, wondering if it is in the factory security system, and how to correct. Right now I am dead in the water. Please help.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DRCRANKNWRENCH
  • MECHANIC
  • 3,380 POSTS
It could be the starter solenoid. There won't be that common "clicking" sound when they go bad like when you have a dead battery. When you get a near dead battery that clicking sound is the solenoid trying to pop out and engage the flywheel, but it does not have the power. They usually don't cost much. Try going to www. Rockauto. Com and you will not believe the prices you can get on name brand parts. They are a close out retailer and their stock changes fast.I got a $150.00 wiper motor for $40.00. I have seen even cheaper deals but with manufacturers I was not familiar with.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
Is there a security light on or flashing when you try to start it?

These guides will help us

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-cranks-but-wont-start

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-reset-a-security-system

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDSULLIVAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
Yes, the security light is flashing when you try to start. The starter solenoid was replaced with new. Still nothing.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
The system is not recognizing your key. The most common cause is the sensor in the ignition switch or the wires leading up to it. You could test the wiring and replace the ignition switch which would require reprogramming of the BCM or you could just bypass the sensor.

That sensor can be bypassed. You would need a digital ohmmeter to measure the resistance of the pellet in the key. Now go to Radio Shack and buy a resister of the exact same value as the key pellet. Go to the base of the steering column and locate the two thin white wires that go up to the sensor. Cut the two wires and solder the resister between the two ends coming from the harness. This will permanently bypass the sensor but not the rest of the system.

The picture is all the possible resister values that you could have.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EDSULLIVAN
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
For those interested. I bought a replacement key with the same code, had it cut, and the car still is dead. Do I need to replace the ignition switch?
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DJCL
  • MECHANIC
  • 767 POSTS
The to white wires brake @ the ignition switch. A new key will not help. If this is the case then wrench is corect. Buy pass the switch or replace the switch assy.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,758 POSTS
The key was never your problem as I indicated earlier. Possibly the sensor that reads the key but the key is nothing but a resister.
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Thursday, January 9th, 2020 AT 12:33 PM (Merged)

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