What would cause my engine to stall?

If this problem is only here when at idle, i would get the IASC cleaned and checked, check that the throttler body is clean and check for any vacuum leaks, a mechanic should only be charging about 1Hrs labour to do these simple checks.

This guide can help us fix it

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

Please run down this guide and report back.

Hi:

The rough idle is most likely the result of a sensor problem. If the check engine light has come on, have the computer scanned to identify trouble codes. Most nationally recognized parts stores will do it for free. My first guess is the idle air control valve (IAC) or you may have a simple vacuum leak. Try this, start the engine and open the hood. Listen for hissing sounds and try to locate them if you hear one. A vacuum hose may have come off or dry rotted and need replaced. If you go to our homepage under the DIY section, there are involved directions that explaine different ways to check for vacuum leaks. As far as the IAC, you can remove it from the throttle body and inspect it for operation. There is a pintil valve that should move when you turn the key from off to on. If it doesn't move, replace it. Its purpose is to allow metered air into the engine at an idle, when the throttle plate is closed. If it doesn't work properly, the engine idle will be affected.

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.
Joe

Sounds like the battery might have been disconnected or run dead recently. If so, the Engine Computer lost its memory and has to relearn "minimum throttle" before it will know when it must be in control of idle speed. It also might not give you the normal "idle flare-up" to 1500 rpm when you start the engine. To meet the conditions for the relearn to take place, drive at highway speed with the engine warmed up, then coast for at least seven seconds without touching the brake or gas pedals.

It would be helpfull if you have the code written.
The code is more important than anything guessing.
Sorry it's costing you money and still the problem is not solv.
If you take your car to auto part store or get one with us on link below. Write the code down and post it to me.

3.7L Engine Firing order: 1-6-5-4-3-2 Distributor rotation: clockwise

Check the firing order, the engine may not start or it may pop and backfire when firing order is messed up.
The replacement wires should also be routed exactly the same as the originals, and supported by looms or clips so they do not contact the exhaust manifold.
You could scan it anyway, there may be pending code.

Clean the throttle platewith choke cleaner on botsh sides as well as the idle air control valve, usually an oblong hole by throttle plate. Then spray around intake for vacuum leaks. Have the front axle checked for the clicking, this can be a suspension/acle problem or just rust falling off someplace causing this but a pro shold be able to see what is wrong with it. I would suspect a brake problem myself though as it stops when you apply them. The engien will start hard after you sparay the tp with the cleaner and make sure to hook up duct work before starting.

The problem must occur a number of time before the engine code presents itself again since the previous code was clear by your mechanic, its call the drive cycle.
Here is a drive cycle technique to bring back the engine light.

Ensure that the fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full.
Start cold (below 86 °F /30 °C) and warm up until engine coolant temperature is at least 160 ° F (typically requires at least one minute; up to 3 minutes).
Accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for five minutes.
Decelerate without using the brake (coast down) to 20 MPH or less, and then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
Restart and accelerate to 40-55 MPH at 25% throttle and maintain speed for two minutes.
Decelerate with using the brake by coasting down to 20 MPH or less, then stop the vehicle. Allow the engine to idle for 10 seconds, turn the key off, and wait one minute.
Start the vehicle again; your engine light should come on.

Note: check your receipt when you had your diagnostic test done, because usually they will write down your code number along with the repair information if you still have it

Hello ajmedico
Welcome back to 2carpros. Com
The computer is responsible of advancing and retarding the ignition timing base on the input from Map sensor/baro

When the engine is working hard
(Accelerating), intake vacuum drops as the throttle opens wide. The engine sucks in more air, which requires more fuel to keep the air/fuel ratio in balance. In fact, when the computer reads a heavy load signal from the MAP sensor, it usually makes the fuel mixture go slightly richer than normal so the engine can produce more power. At the same time, the computer will retard (back off) ignition timing slightly to prevent detonation (spark knock) that can damage the engine and hurt performance.
An engine code should be set, keep your eyes on it or you can have the map sensor tested.