I am replacing front rotors on 2002 Ford Expedition. They are the kind that have the hub with it. I need to take out the wheel bearings to do so. I can't find the torque value for the wheel bearing nut. Anyone have that torque? Thank you.
Remove the front disc brake caliper anchor plate (2B292). For additional information, refer to Brake Caliper Anchor Plate in this section.
On 4x4 vehicles, remove the brake disc (1125).
If necessary, resurface the brake disc. Ford recommends on-vehicle rotor machining. Follow the lathe manufacturer's instructions.
On 4x2 vehicles, remove the brake disc and hub (1102) as follows: Remove the hub grease cap (1131).
Remove the cotter pin.
Remove the nut retainer.
Remove the spindle nut.
Remove the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).
Remove the outer front wheel bearing (1216).
Remove the brake disc and hub.
If necessary on 4x2 vehicles, resurface the brake disc and hub. Ford recommends on-vehicle brake disc machining. Follow the lathe manufacturer's instructions.
Remove the wheel hub grease seal (1190).
Remove the inner front wheel bearing.
On 4x4 vehicles, position the brake disc.
Use Metal Brake Parts Cleaner F3AZ-19579-SA or equivalent.
Clean the brake disc.
Position the brake disc.
On 4x2 vehicles, use Metal Brake Parts Cleaner F3AZ-19579-SA or equivalent to thoroughly clean and inspect the front wheel bearings and the brake disc and hub.
On 4x2 vehicles, lubricate the front wheel bearings.
Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or-K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C198-A.
On 4x2 vehicles, install a new wheel hub grease seal.
Install the inner front wheel bearing.
Install a new wheel hub grease seal.
On 4x2 vehicles, install the brake disc and hub.
Position the brake disc and hub.
Install the outer front wheel bearing.
Install the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer.
Install the spindle nut.
NOTE: On 4x2 vehicles, rotate the brake disc and hub while adjusting front wheel bearing end play.
Tighten the spindle nut.
Loosen the spindle nut two turns.
Tighten the spindle nut while rotating the brake disc counterclockwise.
Loosen the spindle nut.
Tighten the spindle nut.
On 4x2 vehicles, install the following components: nut retainer
hub grease cap
Install the front disc brake caliper anchor plate.
July, 18, 2011 AT 2:16 AM
Thanks for the info. Will refer to it while doing it. The instructions still don't say what to torque the nut to. I am sure you don't just crank the nut to whatever tightness you feel like doing. I have been working on planes and cars long enough to know that. That nut has to be torqued to something. So if you know or can find out from someone what that torque value is you will be a life saver. Thanks for the instructions again. I hope to hear from you with that torque value. Later.
The Ford man
July, 18, 2011 AT 1:57 PM
The last part of the shop manual is not clear as to the torque. There really is not a specification as per say. You tighten it up, rotate it a few times and retighten just enough to eliminate any free-play. It should be just tight enough to take up any play in the bearings, but no tighter or it will ruin bearings. It is kind of a feel thing. I know some guys who do the final torque with the wheel installed, so they can easily check for any play in the bearings.
July, 18, 2011 AT 2:43 PM
Thanks man. DDoing it today.
The Ford man
July, 23, 2011 AT 3:21 AM
You are welcome.
August, 4, 2011 AT 3:25 AM
Your info. On doing the wheel bearing was great and they seem to be perfect. I am back with another question. I am putting on the brakes finally and noticed something in the manual that I have never seen before for putting on disc brakes. It says that I have to take out like 1/3 of the brake fluid before I bush back the caliper cups because it would push the fluid back up to the resivor and make it overflow if I don't do it. Never had to do this ever on any other car that I have changed disc brakes on. Is this true? Is the Ford Expedition weird? What is the scoop on this fluid thing. The info. Came out of the Haynes manual. Thanks. Appreciate it again.
August, 4, 2011 AT 7:31 AM
When you compress the pistons in the calipers. That fluid goes back into the master cyl. And may overflow thats all.
August, 4, 2011 AT 2:19 PM
So should I take some fluid out or just compress the pistons the way I usually do. I understand why they want you to do it, I just never seen it before in a manual. If you want me to do it then should I just bleed the brakes to get rid of the fluid. Would that be the easiest. Thanks.
August, 4, 2011 AT 6:15 PM
Dont open the system. Remove the master cyl. Cover and and watch the level as you compress the calibers. Use a rag if you need to remove some fluid. You need to cut the rotors also.
August, 4, 2011 AT 7:01 PM
Turkey baster works good too, It kinda don't matter whether you take it out and keep things clean, or just let it overflow all over everything as too much fills the Master Cylinder---Some of the newer rigs' M.C. Caps may not allow it to squirt out. Then it would maybe be overwhelming "Hydraulic Pressure" building up and "Busting" the plastic reservoir.'Less you left the cap off.