Intermittent crank no start issue

Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Just to be clear, an oscilloscope is an oscilloscope (for the most part) and it will show you a pattern but this circuit to the pump is a DC voltage circuit and they show up on scopes as a straight line at the voltage level they are supplied. So since this is a 12 volt DC circuit, the scope should show it as a flat line at the 12 volt level on the grid.

Give it a shot and see if that is what you get. Feel free to post a picture of it. Thanks
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Tuesday, February 16th, 2021 AT 5:20 PM
Tiny
OLLEIA56
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Thank you Kasekenny, this weekend I am going to scope the light blue/orange wire (pin 7) for feedback should be square wave. I would like to scope the control signal also what wire is that? Hopefully one of those will show duty cycle of pump and if the signal is a clean square wave. Again thank you and have a good weekend.
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Friday, February 19th, 2021 AT 8:26 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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I am sorry. You are talking about from the ECM to the driver module and not the pump.

You are correct that the light blue/orange should be a square wave. The white/red will be your control wire which would be they duty cycle.
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Saturday, February 20th, 2021 AT 5:45 PM
Tiny
OLLEIA56
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Thank you Kasekenny, will give that a shot on the scope and post it. Sorry for any confusion.
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Sunday, February 21st, 2021 AT 12:34 PM
Tiny
OLLEIA56
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Hi Kasekenny, Had a friends scan my car with a Autel bt mk808 tool, it tested a lot including the fuel pump and reported the fuel pump as okay. I am going to send a waveform the tool gave me. I hope it is useful. Would like your opinion. Thanks.
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Sunday, March 14th, 2021 AT 7:50 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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I can't see the voltage scale but that looks great. Good square wave and it is stepped up which shows duty cycle is increasing.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 7:45 AM
Tiny
OLLEIA56
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Thanks Kasekenny, the scanner is new to us and don't know how to set the voltage scale on the photo I have of the waveform on the vertical axis scale goes from 88 to almost 120 (I know that can't be volts) I did rev it up during the scan I assume that's where you see it stepping up. Can I assume if there was bad contacts on the pump the waveform would have shown it?
From what I am reading, the fuel pump should be on during prime and crank, if that is correct what would cause the pressure to sometimes drop to zero while cranking then upon turning key off and on it primes to 30 and stays there while cranking then starts? Ghost in the machine!
Car holds pressure for over 3 hours then starts to drop off. Thank you for your input.
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Tuesday, March 16th, 2021 AT 11:26 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
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Yes. The graph would should a connection issue.

Just to be clear, when the pressure drops to 0, does the engine start? It shouldn't so it is dropping to 0 because there is a leak in the pressure at the pump or the injectors. So if the pump holds pressure for hours then we know the system is sealed at both ends and you don't have a leaking injector or pump. So let's get more detail on when it drops to 0. Can you get it to do this at will? What do you have to do to get it to drop to 0?
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Wednesday, March 17th, 2021 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
OLLEIA56
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I cannot get it to happen, it happens randomly, sometimes the pressure won't drop at all while cranking and it will start like normal. When it drops to 0 PSI it will not start. If I cycle the key, pressure comes up to 30 PSI and it will then start. Also it holds pressure for hours. This weekend I will try to get a video of the fuel pressure gauge (if it acts up).
Thank you for your input.
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Thursday, March 18th, 2021 AT 9:19 PM
Tiny
DANNY L
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Hello, I'm Danny.

I have to add my 10 cents here. Number one you are not getting the even close fuel pressure your car is requiring. You mention you've only achieved 30 PSI when working-running. The specification for your GT is 35 PSI (minimum) - 65 (maximum) PSI which you need. When you add a forced induction unit to your car do you realize or were you told a few things you might have to change? Was an upgraded higher pressure fuel pump installed or is this the original? Your fuel pressure is coming in way low. Did you change the fuel injectors to add more pressure or are they stock as well? Stock injectors can be 19 or 24's. Just trying to help and keep your supercharger from launching through the hood. Get back to us and we'll continue to help. Just an FYI- I worked at Saleen for 2 years. Thanks again for using 2CarPros.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 5:54 AM
Tiny
OLLEIA56
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Hi Danny,

I had a Kenne Bell 1.7L intercooled supercharger with a boost a pump and 36 Lb. Injectors installed around 9 years ago. It is running 9 pounds of boost. At 9 pounds of boost my fuel pressure reads 50 pounds. For whatever reason the car has always read 30 PSI at idle, on a hot day it will go up to 40 PSI regular driving out of boost. No problems until recently, here's the whole story. Tried to start car zero fuel pressure cycled key a few times pressure came up to 30 PSI car started and ran normally. Started checking grounds and connections found the connector on the fuel pump driver module had green corrosion on the pins, cleaned it really well, going further found the connector (under the rear bumper) to the fuel pump had green corrosion cleaned it. Also found a bad ground around the radiator shroud. Everything ran well for a while, thought I had it fixed. Then it happened again tried to start zero pressure no start. Got it running now I notice sometimes the pressure will drop from 30 PSI to zero while cranking, if I cycle the key it will prime to 30PSI and start. Other times it will crank and the pressure will not drop at all. (It holds pressure for hours before dropping off.) From what I read the fuel pump should be on during prime and crank, if that is correct then whatever is responsible for keeping the fuel pump running during crank is not doing it's job. Would very much appreciate your input. I am keeping this car out of boost until I get this fixed. Thank you for your input.
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Friday, March 19th, 2021 AT 9:49 PM

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