Codes P1457 and P1456?

It's been a while, but I seem to recall that to do the updates you loaded the software onto the computer, then updated the application on the computer then used that to update the memory card using a card reader. Then you plugged the memory into the tool and used the card to activate it.

Hi,

I noticed we haven't heard from you for a few days. Have you had any luck? We're interested in knowing.

Thanks,

Joe

The memory card should be under the cover on the left side of the tool. It is a large compact flash card. Do not try to format it. Instead, you use a card reader and the software on the disc to load the card. You should be able to go to 2008 on the system 2 and 3.

Well looking at the video and the tests I would say the issue isn't the purge or vent solenoids or the canister. However, there are other parts that you can't really use a scan tool to test. Like the fuel filler neck, the pump and the lines. That first test showed that the purge will open and pull a vacuum (that is why the voltage dropped on the FTP) It also showed that your vent solenoid seems to work. The bogging was the very rich fuel mix being pulled through the purge system. The last test will normally only show anything if you wait a while as it should show the FTP rising from the fuel in the tank warming up. I believe the solenoids and valves are not the issue. That leaves things like a small leak around the fuel pump, a small leak in something like the filler neck or vent line. Testing those would need a smoke machine and a quite place to work with no breeze. There are a few of them you can build out of a paint can and a BBQ regulator if you want to DIY. You don't get the fancy features, but they do work. The hard part is usually finding the tiny leak.

I've actually built one like this as a test and it worked very well for basic leaks. The big thing is to not use a lot of pressure. The propane regulator will drop the pressure down to less than one half PSI. which will not hurt anything. Then for testing you can inject from the line the purge valve connects to. One big safety item. Regardless of which unit you use, turn off the power to the coil first, then disconnect the hose and shut off the air last.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Np_duzsaZxI

You want it on the line that goes back to the tank and other parts. That will allow for smoke to fill all the lines and the tank and filler neck. One thing I have done is add a few drops of UV dye into the mineral oil. Then use a bright light and a UV light to see if you can find the leak. It can take a bit. Another trick you can do to help is to look for smoke on every line, fitting and all around the tank. If you can set the last test in the video that would close the tank vent so you shouldn't see smoke there. Then get a bottle of bubble fluid (the stuff in the dollar store that you wave to create bubbles) Mix it 50-50 with water and put it in a small spray bottle. You can spray that on suspect areas and see if you see bubbles. The.5 psi is enough to create bubbles if there is any leak.

Check the connection itself for cracks. If you want to see the smoke better use a bright hand light with the lights off. That usually lets you track the smoke easier. A way to drop the pressure would be to open the machine and connect a BBQ regulator in the airline. That would drop it to a half of a PSI.

That tube is likely the canister vent. Your scan tool should be able to close the valve it has for that. If you turn it "off" so the vent is closed and still gets smoke out of it, the valve is bad. It may turn on and off, but it isn't sealing.