I have a 2000 town car signature series. Having issues with it overheating. Hard to crank n stay running at first, but after I drive for a few minutes then cut it off, I have no problems recranking. I will throw out some key issues. Any suggestions will be appreciated. (Very much)
-purchased a week ago n had no problems driving it from new orleans louisiana to brookhaven ms. Owner was towing company n said it sat up 5 months.
-ball joint was broke, so had to reset fuel pump switch
-new alternator and serpentine belt, battery, thermostat
-EATC self diagnostics test returns no dtc's
-radiator fan does not kick on in low or high, with or without heater or ac on
-jump wire connected from radiator fan to battery proves fan motor is ok
-checked 4 fuses/relays, locations: 50 amp maxi fuse #3 (high speed cooling fan) & #26 which is low speed cooling fan 30 amp in main fuse box under hood. Both were blown so I replaced them. And 2 big relays in small box in between breather and main box, for low n high speed. Swapped relays around n horn still blowed so relays are ok.
-not showing power with test light to 2 15 amp mini fuses in main fuse box under hood, locations #20 (fuel injectors) & #21 (heated o2 sensors, tranny solenoid, evap canister vent solenoid, egr vacuum regulator, evap vapor management valve). Replaced both with new fuses, test light still wont come on. Is this normal or possibly an electrical issue?
-hoses from radiator n water reservoir have good pressure, so I dont think it is water pump
-have not saw any leaking hoses
-thinking a sensor could be the cause (coolant). But which one and how do I test it?
-any ideas/suggestions? I have both owners manual n repair guide book, but I am female and am not a mechanic. Lol. So please be user friendly : ))))
Btw, flushed radiator. Still overheats, even just idling. Check engine light is on.
Did you test the actual fan at all to see if it works?
I would start there as it will blow the fuses if internally shorted.
March, 29, 2013 AT 12:24 AM
Like I stated above, with jump wire ran from fan to batteryIT WORKS! What is your next guess? Or solution? I have been using process of elimination.
March, 29, 2013 AT 12:37 AM
Do you have a low amp probe? If those fuses blew, I am concerned on how much amperage the motor is pulling.
March, 29, 2013 AT 1:07 AM
I do not have one, all I have is a test light. There is nothing wrong with the motor. It runs like new. What does the motor have anything to do with the question I asked? I have not drove around after it started overheating for fear I might mess the motor up. There is no water in oil if you are thinking cracked head. I checked to be on the safe side.
COULD SENSORS BE THE CULPRIT?
March, 29, 2013 AT 1:30 AM
The fans should turn on high-speed when you turned the air on. Check for a fan control module. Are there the fuses still blowing?
March, 29, 2013 AT 1:45 AM
The radiator/cooling fan is not working. Even with air on high. The ac fan does. No, the fuses were blown when I bought it. Replaced fuses and they are ok. They havent blown since.
March, 29, 2013 AT 1:50 AM
The radiator fan works off the coolant sensor. Check it to see if it is registering correctly.
March, 29, 2013 AT 1:54 AM
I understand the cooling fan is not working properly. There has to be: fan module to control the cooling fans. If not then replace the coolant sensor that's what controls the fans.
March, 29, 2013 AT 2:26 AM
Do I need the cooling fan control for my car.
Do I need to just buy that or both that and coolant sensor? Thanks
March, 29, 2013 AT 2:28 AM
But I also read online that if the sensor is unplugged then fan will run on high. My fan didnt cut on. So it must be the fan control, then?