So if I understand correctly, ... Uhm, ... I'm confused.
"on relay 1 I get close to nothing"
"I put the test light on both relays and they both have power"
Two of the four terminals in relay one's socket should have 12 volts all the time. Two of the four terminals in relay two's socket should also have 12 volts all the time. If that is what you have, ... Well, even if you have something different, I think we've established the 125 amp fuse is good. You said previously that you replaced the headlight switch assembly. That just leaves the wire between the relay box and the switch. That is a blue / red wire. There is a good suspect to look for. That is the inside fuse / relay box listed as being on the passenger side of the dash. There's no fuse in there for this circuit, but there are two connector terminals. Typically they will do that when there is some optional device that is used on some models. On yours, when that item isn't used, there's just a jumper wire in there. That would be a good place to look for corroded terminals.
If you can remove the headlight switch and get to the wires, use a paper clip and piece of wire to ground the blue / red wire. As an alternative you can test there for 12 volts. If you find 12 volts there, check again with the headlight switch turned on. If you still have 12 volts there, the new switch is defective or the wrong part for this application. At the same time, if you ground that wire, the headlights should turn on. If it's easier, you can do the grounding tests with the switch unplugged. The voltage tests have more validity with the switch plugged in. If necessary, I can explain that later.
If you do not find 12 volts there, and / or grounding that wire doesn't turn the headlights on, you'll have to work backward to that under-dash fuse box or to the relay box with those two headlamp relays. Ground the blue / red wire at the points where you find it and see where you can turn on the relays. You'll know the relays turned on by the headlights turning on.
If nothing has worked up to this point, we can approach this a different way by grounding the blue / red wire right in one of the relay sockets but I'll have to describe how to determine which terminal to ground. Lets stick with just one relay, because they're both tied together and will respond to any testing together. I'll need to know for sure that you have 12 volts on two terminals and 0 volts on the other two.
Wednesday, May 27th, 2015 AT 9:26 PM