Crank, No Start?

Tiny
SIX6CAPO
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD TAURUS
  • 3.0L
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 218,000 MILES
I recently purchased the car listed above DOHC 24v from my mother for $1,000 for my 16-year-old son for his first car. It had been sitting for about six months due to what she explained as “it ran fine then stalled and died”. I thought it would be a fun project for my son and I to diagnose and get running again for his first car because it’s extremely clean and would be a great first car for him. Okay, enough with back story. Here’s what I have...

1. Originally thinking it was the typical fuel pump issues; I brought it home and placed it on jack stands. Checked the Schrader valve on the motor and had pressure. I also disconnected the fuel line before and after the filter and had pressure on prime both times so I’m assuming the fuel pump is fine. Checked every relay and fuse under hood and under driver side dash. Fuses show power on both sides and relays all react to the old 9v battery power trick.


2. Started checking for spark. On attempt to crank I noticed no rpm at all. Replaced the crank position sensor, engine temperature sensor and camshaft position sensor all with OEM Motorcraft parts. Still no spark.

3. I went in with Forscan and I’m still not seeing any spark advance. While I was in Forscan I checked the PATS system for keys and I’m still showing a good program on my key.

4. Today I removed the PCM to check for any shorts/damage. It still looks as new as day one with no visible damage.

Should I just replace PCM to check the box (I found a remain unit with 2 keys for $150 online) or am I missing something else?

Any help would be amazing as I am just a dad with no real mechanic experience. Just trying to show my kid work ethic and value.

Thanks a million, in advance!
Wednesday, February 12th, 2025 AT 8:55 AM

10 Replies

Tiny
SIX6CAPO
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Here’s some photos on the car.
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Wednesday, February 12th, 2025 AT 9:00 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 741 POSTS
Hello, have you scanned the system for codes? Using Forscan you can find out what codes are in the memory, if any. Have you tested for voltage at the ignition coil? It should be behind the intake manifold. When checking for spark I usually have a spark tester attached to the plug wire.

Lastly, if you see spark in the wire but it will not fire, perhaps there is an air issue. You can disconnect the MAF sensor on the right side of the air intake and see if the car will run. If so, that sensor is bad. If you have any other information or videos, please let us know.

Thanks,
William
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Wednesday, February 12th, 2025 AT 10:06 AM
Tiny
SIX6CAPO
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
The only code that Forscan was showing in history was a p1000. I assume from just sitting up for so long. Most of the time if I’m correct the p1000 will clear on its own once it starts to drive again. I do not have a spark tester but when I pull up the Forscan oscilloscope I don’t see any spark at all. I will also try the MAF trick and report back.

Also, this is the Duratek motor that each cylinder has its own coil pack.
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Wednesday, February 12th, 2025 AT 12:31 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 741 POSTS
Hello, p1000 could be normal in this instance, it can come on if the battery is disconnected or codes cleared, or simply if it hasn't finished its own diagnostics. You can have someone crank the car with each coil out with a spark plug in it and see if it is firing, that will give you a more definitive answer on the spark.

You mentioned replacing the cam sensor, being a DOHC, it should have two. In any case, I would follow the wiring as far back as possible to check for any rodent damage or heat damage.

Please let us know what you find.
William
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Wednesday, February 12th, 2025 AT 3:56 PM
Tiny
SIX6CAPO
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Update: still no crank.
I did find that I originally changed the engine temperature “sender” (one wire) and not the temperature “sensor” (two wire). Once I figured this out, I went and picked up the actual sensor. But no luck. Still no crank. I know I changed the crank position sensor (located near the alternator) and another sensor that looked very similar to the crank position sensor located near the front coil packs. Do you happen to know where I can find a schematic of this motor so I can see where all the sensors are? I’ve looked for a few hours online and have had no luck.

I also went ahead and ordered the new PCM with the new keys. It should be here in a few days, and I can mark that off the list.

I appreciate all your help!
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Wednesday, February 12th, 2025 AT 8:51 PM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 741 POSTS
Up until this point given the description and title, I understood that the car would at least crank but not start. If the car does nothing, this will change how we go about the diagnosis. If the car is not cranking, there will be no RPMs or spark advance or even spark without the engine rotating.

Have you checked the battery? Voltage is not good enough. 12.6v is a fully charged battery but gives no insight to the cranking potential. Let's start there and we can go through the process.

Thanks,
William
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Thursday, February 13th, 2025 AT 5:50 AM
Tiny
SIX6CAPO
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
I sincerely apologize; I mistyped crank instead of start. Currently the car will crank but not start.

I have changed the crank position sensor, engine temp sender and sensor, battery is on a tender with about 13.2v. I have pulled the PCM and it looks fine but no burnt smell or appearance of failure, but I have ordered a remanufactured unit online (awaiting arrival). Fuel looks good, priming and getting about 30-50 to the rail. All fuses and relays test to be in working order. Iin Forscan my MAF sensor shows about 0.5 - 0.7 on crank, rpms still at 0, fuel at same as rail. I don't have a spark tester but I'm almost positive the PCM is not sending a signal to the coils either from a bad sensor somewhere or the PCM itself.
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Thursday, February 13th, 2025 AT 7:45 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 741 POSTS
Hello. It is possible the computer has an internal problem and is not seeing the crank position sensor signal. You can test this at the PCM connector where the reference signal from the crank sensor ends. Even then this would not rule out that the PCM has an internal fault. When I obtain access to some electrical diagrams I can send them your way, if the PCM does not fix your issue.

William
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Thursday, February 13th, 2025 AT 9:26 AM
Tiny
SIX6CAPO
  • MEMBER
  • 6 POSTS
Thank you so much. I will report back when it arrives and I get it installed.
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Thursday, February 13th, 2025 AT 11:40 AM
Tiny
CANNON1349
  • MECHANIC
  • 741 POSTS
You're welcome. I also drive one of these daily, though a 97' with plug wires, the design is virtually the same. Once we get going, I'm sure we can figure out the issue.

Thanks again,
William
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Thursday, February 13th, 2025 AT 11:43 AM

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