2000 Ford Ranger stalling and idling rough

Has the throttle plate and iac hole been cleaned with choke cleaner? And duct work and all grommets checked for cracks and or small holes? Also one other thing hae you blocked the evap hose as it may be sending vacuum through there when it shouldn't it's in the drawing I sent. Thos should only open when the vehicle is above 30 mph and not on idle sometimes the solenoid is stuck in the open position at idle and it screws it up. Other than that I really can't think of anything else that would cause this unless it 's the dpfe sensor as fords go through those like candy. It's on the rear lifting hook of engine.

It should but that doesn't mean it will. But like I said I cannot think of anything else to your problem unless you get the injectors professionally cleaned as pro cleaner is not good for the hoses and they hook right up to the fuel rail. The thing that is throwing me off is it's ok when warm which usually is a small vacuum leak and the computer compensates once it reaches temp. I've been reading a lot of tips on these vehicles check your vacuum at idle cold and if the gauge bounces between 16-18 " it seems that its' the valve seats are worn and what happens it can't overcome the lifters oil so it idles rough. With worn seats it allows the valve stem to go to high causing the lifter problem. And normally with new seats it takes care of itself as it puts it back in the right height. Like I said I can't think of anything else but with 65k I kind of think it may not be the seats. It may be something you'll need to live with if it can't be found. It is hard for us as we can't actually work on it to try stuff that you dont' know what to look for. I have seen spark plugs that will not fire right when cold but when warmed up they pick up but that is usually though out the whole range of engine rpm not at idle. I'm at a complete loss now. And have no further suggestions.

Plug the evap line as well as the solenoid may be sticking. Try that first it's the easiest